CYCLOPS RESTORATION - Conyers GA

#1
I have had this for many years and originally put a Briggs 3.5 HP engine in it. My son rode it over 15 years ago. Now retired I am doing a better job of restoration.

It will be powered by a Harbor Freight 6.5 HP engine. I think they call it the Predator. The wheels are just some 6 inch split rims with a 4.50x3.5x6 tires. These are 4 ply purchased from OldMiniBikes. The original bike had a rear drum brake. I am using the clutch break. Once I get this completely mocked up and get my drive train ironed out it will be disassembled and powder coated black. I have the original chain guard and working on cleaning, prime and painting it. Since the engine is blue I plan on painting it the same color. The bike also came with rounded front and rear fenders which I am searching for something that can look like the ones that came on it. The fenders will also be blue as is the engine and chain guard.

I am going with the heavier drive train that uses a #40 or #41 chain with steel sprockets.

Take a close look at the wheel. This time I am using spacers with set screws to hold the wheel in place and prevent over compressing when tightening up the outer nuts. The last time I built this I did not do that and it screwed up the bearings. I plan on doing this on the rear as well.

Normally it does not come with a kick stand and this time I welded one on. This is a must have for parking it.

That is about all I can think of at this time. If you have any questions, please ask.

Left side (2).jpg Wheel Assembly.jpg
 
#5
It is new from Harbor Freight. I bought it a couple of years ago on sale for $100. I am a little slow with getting around with projects. LOL
Now that I am retired I have lots of time on my hands to do the things I like to do. My other hobby is riding on my 2012 Heritage Classic.
 
#6
Take a close look at the wheel. This time I am using spacers with set screws to hold the wheel in place and prevent over compressing when tightening up the outer nuts. The last time I built this I did not do that and it screwed up the bearings. I plan on doing this on the rear as well.

View attachment 73075 View attachment 73076
Most manufacturers used spacers in between the bearings. Then you won't over compress them. :thumbsup:
 
#7
Looking at that front bearing, it looks like the wheel could carry a flanged bearing too. Or like Tom says about the spacer that goes between the bearings inside the wheel.
 
#8
I could have used spacers but what I found is when you tighten the outside nuts it presses into the bearings and distorts them. This way it won't do that. I found that out pulling the old bearings out. I work on motorcycles and the concept I used is similar to the way motorcycles are set up.

On motorcycles they use spacers but the forks themselves lock down to the axle and you don't have to worry about over tightening them to the bearings. That is the logic I used for doing it the way that I did. :)
 
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