Can anybody tell me which side of the bike (passenger or driver) that the valve stem should be on for a new style DB30? I bought one that had terrible tires on it, and when I pulled it off and swapped tires, I couldn't tell which side it went on. I assumed the brake side so that you could access it through the rotor. I am wondering if it even matters. My chain is lined up fine, but I'm wondering if I'll need to shim my caliper. I have no brakes as it is, and the pads are ordered. I just was wondering if I may have to switch when the pads get in.
Db30 rear wheel info
- Thread starter davidlamb78
- Start date
- Tags db30 info rear wheel
For adding air, get a valve extension, makes job a lot easier. I just install it to add air and then remove it.
Tire Valve Extensions
Tire Valve Extensions
That's why I asked. Will the rotor fit on both sides? If not, then I know my wheel is on correctly. The stock sprocket is solid, and that doesn't leave much room to add air. I just wanted to make sure that I was putting the rear wheel on in a way that wouldn't mess up the rear caliper in relation to the rear rotor. My brakes don't work at all, and I'm only assuming that the rear pads need replaced. Got some new pads in the mail last week, but haven't had a chance to install them. Too cold here. I'll put them on next week when I have time to get out into the cold garage. Thanks again, guys.
Hydro brakes are unsafe. I will never risk my life on a hydro brake again. A properly set up cable brake is much safer. The hydro brakes will snap the mounting ear off leaving you with no brakes, except your flintstone brakes. That's what happens when you over power cheap chinese minis with cheap chinese engines and then add a cheap chinese hydro brake caliper. I can post a pic of a broken hydro caliper if you need to see it.
I don't think it is fair to say that the hydraulic brakes are dangerous and of poor quality because of your incident. Many, many people run them on their modified doodlebugs with no issues. Myself, I have never heard of that happening before, where the brake busts that mounting bracket off. :shrug: Seems to me something fairly bad would have to happen to break that bracket off.
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Here is my take on the hyrdo conversion for the DB's. I bought Hotrodminibikes setup and it has worked well, but I was cleaning up bike and noticed the brake bracket on the frame had obviously bent some and was no longer parallel with the disc. It was parallel when I put it on. I have probably put over 50 hours riding the bike before I noticed the issue.
As such, I will be changing over to a different caliper and a stronger bracket.
As such, I will be changing over to a different caliper and a stronger bracket.
I don't know that I'd trust any of the brackets that are stock. We take these bikes and modify them. We push them to limits they were not designed to reach. I would definitely give a hydraulic set up a try. I think I would rather get a caliper and lever from an old dirt bike. Any bracket on the frame probably won't be able to handle the force of the new brake. I would think that a new bracket would be a necessity. You could also say the same for the frame, but most folks don't build a new one. I'm sure there are better quality brakes out there, but most people want to do these builds inexpensively. The pocket bike brakes are cheap, and (like everything) you get what you pay for. I can also say, the brake that came on it doesn't work. I bought the whole bike for $50, so I expected to spend some cash on it. I bought some new brake pads for $5, so I'll give them a try. If they don't work, I'll be pulling the front brake off of an old dirt bike to see how that works.