Gabrielle (Daniel) Coop's - "G Thang" Motovox MBX10 - (Chinese Class)
You can replace steel bolts with stainless you just have to know what you are doing and/or have a supplier to order the correct parts. Stainless actually come in grades just like mild steel bolts but is way more complicated. Most places are gonna sell the cheapest 18-8 they can because people just want no rust shiny. Its easy to remember grade 3, 5, 8 but when it comes to stainless you have to factor in the alloy (18-8, 302, ect), the treating, and the forging process.
For what we do if you want stainless bolts that are equivalent to grade 8 if you can find a place demand 17-4 SS bolts. You will either have to trust the supplier or make sure they give you the paperwork proving they aint trying to pass cheaper 18-8 off on you.
For those that need numbers (like me) 17-4 is what ARP uses in their fasteners but here is the facts comparing it to grade 8 mild steel.
Carbon Steel used in Grade 8 Fasteners:
91 ksi in single shear
130 ksi tensile yield
150 ksi tensile ultimate
17-4 Stainless Bar heat treated to H1025
95 ksi single shear
145 ksi tensile yield
155 ksi tensile ultimate
Stainless is so last year, everybody knows you have to have titanium fasteners to be cool now.:hammer: They alone add 500 bench racing horsepower.
I mean look at that bargin, they are only $4+ per bolt
ut:
1/4"-20 x 1/2", Ultra-Light Hex-Flange Bolt
For what we do if you want stainless bolts that are equivalent to grade 8 if you can find a place demand 17-4 SS bolts. You will either have to trust the supplier or make sure they give you the paperwork proving they aint trying to pass cheaper 18-8 off on you.
For those that need numbers (like me) 17-4 is what ARP uses in their fasteners but here is the facts comparing it to grade 8 mild steel.
Carbon Steel used in Grade 8 Fasteners:
91 ksi in single shear
130 ksi tensile yield
150 ksi tensile ultimate
17-4 Stainless Bar heat treated to H1025
95 ksi single shear
145 ksi tensile yield
155 ksi tensile ultimate
Stainless is so last year, everybody knows you have to have titanium fasteners to be cool now.:hammer: They alone add 500 bench racing horsepower.
I mean look at that bargin, they are only $4+ per bolt
ut:1/4"-20 x 1/2", Ultra-Light Hex-Flange Bolt
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Do you really think that the Chinese junk bolts are any better grade than "hardware grade"???
I will run 12 elcheapo hardware grade stainless bolts and never give it another thought. If they are properly installed and aren't stretched, or allowed to work loose and have a shear factor, they will ride me around very happily with a stock 6.5. I am not building a drag bike, its a cruzer...
I don't disagree with a graded bolt being the better bolt but I don't see it in a "NO shock load" situation. If this thing had a clutch like a conventional motorcycle then I would say yes they could shear off.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-760-1002
Doug
I will run 12 elcheapo hardware grade stainless bolts and never give it another thought. If they are properly installed and aren't stretched, or allowed to work loose and have a shear factor, they will ride me around very happily with a stock 6.5. I am not building a drag bike, its a cruzer...
I don't disagree with a graded bolt being the better bolt but I don't see it in a "NO shock load" situation. If this thing had a clutch like a conventional motorcycle then I would say yes they could shear off.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-760-1002
Doug
I don't know, I don't use Chinese bolts that come with it. I don't trust Chinese wheel axles or anything that's a safety issue.
Do what you want lol, it's your life. When I'm riding down the road at 40mph I don't have to worry. "Hardware grade" is a grade 2, I didn't suggest that. I said 5 or higher based on use which was a sprocket that deals with torque.
Do what you want lol, it's your life. When I'm riding down the road at 40mph I don't have to worry. "Hardware grade" is a grade 2, I didn't suggest that. I said 5 or higher based on use which was a sprocket that deals with torque.
I hear ya, Iv built motors for imports myself since I was a teen. It's just scary to let's say....snap a bolt with a ratchet , then wonder what that bolt would do under a real load. Real cars to mini's are way different but I'd rather not have a rear sprocket come flying off at 3600 rpm or 5k rpm because the chain gave it a good enough yank and those soft bolts gave way. So I guess to each his own .
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Was looking for a cool gas tank to use on this project, but have limited real estate to work with it this frame. After taking some measurements, I decided to go with this domed aluminum center fill cylindrical tank from BAM manufacturing. It measures 4 × 10". It came with a couple of quick release clamps on some little 2 bolt brackets and had a nice polished aluminum cap. The 1/8 NPT fuel shutoff valve is from OldMiniBikes. The supplied brackets weren't going to work on the mini bike, so I ordered these clone engine mount brackets from GokartsUSA
As you can see, fitment is quality issue with the front mount.
They actually show it mounted and strapped like this on their website... Not going to work for me. After a few trips to the vice and some gentle persuasion, I cured the fitment issue with a proper bend to the bracket.
Only problem is now I can't get the cap on. Fix one problem to uncover Another.
Need to shorten the filler neck now! Ugh...For the time being I will cut the mounting brackets off the quick release clamps and use them. At least I can fill it out of the bike and re-install easily then?
Only problem is now I can't get the cap on. Fix one problem to uncover Another.
Need to shorten the filler neck now! Ugh...For the time being I will cut the mounting brackets off the quick release clamps and use them. At least I can fill it out of the bike and re-install easily then?
So with these tank brackets, they expect you're using a Mikuni carb because you lose your throttle linkage mounting position. Since that was not my intention, I ordered this trick throttle linkage kit I found on eBay.
Problem was that it mounted to the tank mount hole which was now covered up by the blank fuel tank bracket from GokartsUSA. So with the bracket installed, I ran a drill through the backside open hole to attach the throttle cable compression fitting connector.
The only thing left was that with the kit, they want you to cut off the top plastic portion of the carb butterfly where the governor/throttle rod would normally be attached. I practiced on a junk Predator carb, before attempting the same surgery on my OE Honda carburetor.
My second attempt on my actual carb came out cleaner thankfully for the practice. The end result is looks like it was all meant to work together.
I also cut the mounts off my quick release clamps to use
Nice looking tank Daniel! What if you turned it 90 degrees so that it sat down in the saddle of the cylinder???
From the pics it looks like it wouldn't be longer than the engine is wide and that you could gain a couple of inches of clearance off the top bar... :shrug: Change the petcock to a 90 degree fitting with an inline petcock.
Doug
From the pics it looks like it wouldn't be longer than the engine is wide and that you could gain a couple of inches of clearance off the top bar... :shrug: Change the petcock to a 90 degree fitting with an inline petcock.
Doug
Thanks for the suggestions, but I like the mounts. After 1 last test fitting before disassembly, the gas cap is on and although clearance is millimeter(s) tight, nothing is touching and that's with the motor slid completely forward on its adjustable mounting plate. It gets a little more roomy pushed back a couple of inches, where it will normally sit. It'll be impossible to fill the tank, much less remove the cap on the bike, but the quick release clamps make it a cinch to remove for filling. I'm going to run with it, for now. I likey the way it looks!:smile:
Boxed up and shipped out to WI for more power! Not having the patience, time or specialty tools and equipment to do a real high performance engine, or the money for crazy billet bolt on's and assembled big valve heads, I use an affordable, and honest engine builder I've befriended to build the engines I desire. Back in Dan's hands (@ Childish Concepts Racing) It'll be receiving a Dyno Cams CL1 camshaft and PVL aluminum flywheel, 22lb springs under 1.2 ratio rocker arms on a milled and ported head. It will breathe through the bored out original stock Honda carburetor. The CL1 camshaft is all done around 6500 RPM, eliminating the need for an expensive billet rod. (Dan routinely runs stock GX rods up to about 6800RPM without failure) These are a cakewalk for Dan and he's assured me about 1 week turnaround. Getting down to the line on this one for me, as the plan was to have this one done by April 18, for Gabrielle's birthday.
A beautiful mid 60° day in The Mile High, I decided it was a good day for a little painting. The steel crate of one of the 8 Motovox's I picked up works great as a parts hanger for painting in the back yard. Started with sanding and masking, I hung the wheels with bailing wire,
before giving 2 coats of Primer
and then another 2 coats of Rust-Oleum farm implement Troy Bilt gloss red. Can't find Honda red GX paint anywhere!
Think I will definitely do at least one more coat.
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Cylinder walls and piston showed next to no sign of use, so modifying the stock block was a go. Dan had this together in an afternoon
A Dyno Cams CL1 camshaft was installed with red stripe 10.8 springs under 1.2 ratio rocker arms in a .060 milled and ported head. The OE Honda carburetor was bored from .580 to .650 and a Dyno Cams PVL aluminum flywheel was installed. Dyno results showed peak HP right around 12.6 @ 5000 RPM, falling off slightly from there. Should be plenty of fun for us.
Special thanks to fellow forum member Mariah, for coming through on the clutch with the custom made axle! Now I can fit the proper MBX11 front spacers and have threads to spare, to properly tighten up Gabby's front wheel.
The painted rear DB wheel with new bearings, OldMiniBikes sprocket adapter and 57t sprocket, PMR Motovox Hydraulic brake kit installed with the original Motovox rear wheel spacers.
Really digging Gabrielle's bike... Going to be hard to tear it all apart, cut the seat, and powder coat all that black pink. Lol! Now, where's that dang motor...? FedEx tracking has it showing up Saturday.
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