Has anyone had any sucess with these two larger engines in their mini bikes? Thought I read somewhere that they won't fit the doodle bug, but is there any other model where they do fit? For the price(when they're on sale) I wouldn't mind paying extra for the power and speed, not to mention the electric start feature.
Go buy one, gently place it in the cradle then take pics and post them,
I "think" there is enough room.
I thought Ratbike had a Super with a big clone, I looked through his pics and didn't see it......
I've seen pics of Big Briggs Intek engines in them, it is an angle cylinder.
The only real issues may be the belt system, the jug may be in the way of the plate bolting on and the fuel tank.
Right behind the front tire is that plate, should have 3 holes drilled, 1 on top 2 on the bottom, that's where the battery goes.
If it doesn't fit, take it back....
I "think" there is enough room.
I thought Ratbike had a Super with a big clone, I looked through his pics and didn't see it......
I've seen pics of Big Briggs Intek engines in them, it is an angle cylinder.
The only real issues may be the belt system, the jug may be in the way of the plate bolting on and the fuel tank.
Right behind the front tire is that plate, should have 3 holes drilled, 1 on top 2 on the bottom, that's where the battery goes.
If it doesn't fit, take it back....
Here's the pic!!!! Ratbikes beast, can't remember if it is an 11 or 13
Message - Old Mini Bikes Photo Gallery
Message - Old Mini Bikes Photo Gallery
I have been studying for a few weeks and have many questions in trying to get my mind straight on all this good stuff. I have just torn the bike down to send it off for sandblasting and power coating. Trying to get my research on the next step. Also - I am looking for a good project log that goes through step by step.. I see a lot of project logs that are kind of after the fact...
Here are my ramblings:
1. I was thinking the HF11 with the Comet TAV-30 - but not sure there is any room left based on the picture.
2. I haven't figured out the difference between using a Torque converter on the engine versus using a clutch that has a sprocket for the chain?!?-- Everyone seems to be using the TAV-30 Torque converter.
3. Braking System - I am thinking the Torque converter (driver) has a belt to the driven pullry which connects/drives the jack shaft. The jack shaft has a sprocket on it for a chain and brake drum on the shaft. The brake band fits around the drum to do the braking. The chain connects from the sprocket on the jack shaft to rear wheel.
The other research I was thinking of was a Disc Brake - somehow put a spacer after the wheel hub to mount some type of fixed rotor and have a caliper around the rotor to stop the brake when the lever is pulled.
Will a disc brake even work and would it be an easier/cheaper and more effective braking solution?
I apologize for all the questions -- I am a computer guy and haven't ever done anything automotive before so all these terms are new to me. I can build a computer from scratch, but can't figure out this system ... too many parts I guess...
Thanks in advance!
Kevin
Here are my ramblings:
1. I was thinking the HF11 with the Comet TAV-30 - but not sure there is any room left based on the picture.
2. I haven't figured out the difference between using a Torque converter on the engine versus using a clutch that has a sprocket for the chain?!?-- Everyone seems to be using the TAV-30 Torque converter.
3. Braking System - I am thinking the Torque converter (driver) has a belt to the driven pullry which connects/drives the jack shaft. The jack shaft has a sprocket on it for a chain and brake drum on the shaft. The brake band fits around the drum to do the braking. The chain connects from the sprocket on the jack shaft to rear wheel.
The other research I was thinking of was a Disc Brake - somehow put a spacer after the wheel hub to mount some type of fixed rotor and have a caliper around the rotor to stop the brake when the lever is pulled.
Will a disc brake even work and would it be an easier/cheaper and more effective braking solution?
I apologize for all the questions -- I am a computer guy and haven't ever done anything automotive before so all these terms are new to me. I can build a computer from scratch, but can't figure out this system ... too many parts I guess...
Thanks in advance!
Kevin
Powder coating is a very good idea. The end result looks great and is essentially bullet proof. I did chip a few spots on my MB powder coat but it still looks great.
I have the brake drum and brake band system on my MB. Although it works it is a somewhat primitive system. I have to squeeze hard on the brake lever to get the bike to stop quickly. I would consider the disc brake system if it doesn't cost too much and works on your MB.
I have the brake drum and brake band system on my MB. Although it works it is a somewhat primitive system. I have to squeeze hard on the brake lever to get the bike to stop quickly. I would consider the disc brake system if it doesn't cost too much and works on your MB.
I mentioned earlier I've thought about putting one of those engines in our Serengeti Puma. Right now it has a stock 6.5 clone. After riding it in the dirt all afternoon yesterday, I'm starting to think the bigger engine may not be the best idea. According to the HF web site, the 11 and 13 hp engines weigh about 42 pounds more than the 6.5, and are 3.5 inches wider. That's a whole lot of extra mass on a dirt bike. I'm also concerned that the mass would not be centered because of trying to line up the clutch with the sprocket. Not sure about that though. We also have an MB165 with a slightly modified 6.5 (ARC rod and flywheel, flat piston, 18lb springs, header, and no gov). With those basic mods, it runs pretty darn quick. I'm thinking a few more mods, like a 18cc head, carb, and maybe a cam, combined with a torque converter, would make a more ridable and lighter combination. Just my opinion and food for thought.
