Honda GX200 w/ ISKY 350 lift cam !

#1

Well my late winter project is finished .I basically built this engine around the cam ISKY 350 lift 246 duration welded cam . I started off with a honda gx200 block and crank align bored 20 over balanced the crank rod and piston assy. I used a 18cc gx160 head milled .050 28.5 intake 25 mm exhaust Nuen cnc contour valve job ported intake and exhaust installed new guides as well, heavy duty valvespring kit chromemoly 1/4 " push rods champion rockers Isky billet lifters . Actually 90% of the parts came from Tim at Small Engine Cams real great guy to deal with and has all the parts to get you a great build . The piston is a .020 honda flat top piston with an HD wrist pin , ARC stock length billet rod along with a Raceseng S2 non finned billet flywheel and a AGK 2 stage header . The carb is a HL304 Tilly with a little work in it . Im using a Honda G160 head gasket with grade 10.9 bolts with hardend washers . I should end up with around 10.25 to 1 compression if my math was right . I just cant wait to throw it on a frame and fire it up !
 
#3
I have a question, Minidragbike should know since he uses isky cams. About what RPM do these cams start pulling? And whats a rough idea on when a .265 lift, 236in 236ex duration cam would kick in. Ignoring other variables like carburetor. I just want to know when they start pulling. Thanks
 
#5

Well my late winter project is finished .I basically built this engine around the cam ISKY 350 lift 246 duration welded cam . I started off with a honda gx200 block and crank align bored 20 over balanced the crank rod and piston assy. I used a 18cc gx160 head milled .050 28.5 intake 25 mm exhaust Nuen cnc contour valve job ported intake and exhaust installed new guides as well, heavy duty valvespring kit chromemoly 1/4 " push rods champion rockers Isky billet lifters . Actually 90% of the parts came from Tim at Small Engine Cams real great guy to deal with and has all the parts to get you a great build . The piston is a .020 honda flat top piston with an HD wrist pin , ARC stock length billet rod along with a Raceseng S2 non finned billet flywheel and a AGK 2 stage header . The carb is a HL304 Tilly with a little work in it . Im using a Honda G160 head gasket with grade 10.9 bolts with hardend washers . I should end up with around 10.25 to 1 compression if my math was right . I just cant wait to throw it on a frame and fire it up !
SOUNDS SOLID. :thumbsup:
 
#6
I have a question, Minidragbike should know since he uses isky cams. About what RPM do these cams start pulling? And whats a rough idea on when a .265 lift, 236in 236ex duration cam would kick in. Ignoring other variables like carburetor. I just want to know when they start pulling. Thanks
Well what you discribe is not any Isky cam I am aware of but rather sounds more like the dyno regrind 236 durration 265 lift.

They start to pull at the bottom and hang in all the way to the top.
In between there are simply too many variables to put a figuere on without a lot more information.

If your a less is more kind of a guy where you want something that's easy to build and tune around with no suprises.
That cam is good.
 
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minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#7
Well what you discribe is not any Isky cam I am aware of but rather sounds more like the dyno regrind 236 durration 265 lift.

They start to pull at the bottom and hang in all the way to the top.
In between there are simply too many variables to put a figuere on without a lot more information.

If your a less is more kind of a guy where you want something that's easy to build and tune around with no suprises.
That cam is good.
I agree, good advice
That's a only bottom end cam, very little mid, not too at all. Kicks in right away, maybe 2000 RPM, just a educated guess.
 
#8
I would take it a bit further MDB.
Its not a lot but it is part of a bigger picture you can feel when all the other parts of the build line up and work well.
Its more a case of most of the compromises have been ground out of it and other simmilar cams.
Tim has some good looking ( although I have yet to try one ) small cams a long the same lines. More durration without all the lift works well with smaller carbs and stock valves than the bigger lift cams.

The small cams like this don't require a lot of spring presure for moderate builds.
All this translates into less valve train stress.
Add some good SI valves and hardware and the valve train quickly becomes much better than stock as well as making more power.
Stiffer push rods and Champion rockers ( you turned me onto those rocker :thumbsup: ) rounds out a motor that can be pushed to 6000 RPM often and for long durration with no fear of a failure. And thats something stock clone parts can't do and have let me down before.

A lot of guys I race with are moving onto bigger and more complicated cams and engines.
Even I am being forced to make something I am not entirely comfortable with this summer.
But I have an engine with a Dyno 265 in reserve ( might actulay upgrade that to one of Tim's small cams since I have the impression his are better over all in quality of material and finnishing ). Its a tricky little motor with a lot of compression, a long modest header and a carb that seems to work pretty good. I don't know how much power it makes because th Dyno time is worth more than the engines. I amagine its not much more than a stock apearing motor.
But its reliable, DEAD reliable.....
It does not turn fast but it can turn as fast as it can all day long.....
In any event the reliable reserve engines are never as powerful as the one that blew up last week but they run.
 
#11
Yeah, I guess you're right. I've never modded anything and the basic principles of the internal combustion engine don't apply here, cock.
 
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#12
Yeah, I guess you're right. I've never modded anything and the basic principles of the internal combustion engine don't apply here, cock.
No I am being my bitchy old self.

I used to think I was quite the tuner in my flat head and chain saw days.
Well let me tell you, now that I am older and running in a league of my peers that have gray power I realize a few things.

One:
People will tell you all kinds of things, sometimes just to trip you up....

Two:
OHV engines do not behave like you think they will as compared to flat heads and the amount of aftermarket suport today makes things possible I would have never dreamed of in the 80s.

Third:
Its so easy to get the wrong ideas and bite off more than you think you have.
Things that look good and seem right turn into shrapnel and broken dreams on the track.

Extreme caution is in order.
I'm onto my 5th clone engine now with 6 in pieces and still I continue to run into things that don't work. Then I read something and get the wrong idea and make more scrap. You take them a part, reconfiguere and try and figuere out why your slower. Then you do same thing again and get slightly different results. Without a Dyno and good instrumentation its hard to understand sometimes what is happening in there.

So all the basic rules apply untill something unexpected bites you in the arse.
Take witha grain of salt my friend, this gets expensive.
 
#15
I knew you were a softy. Thanks.
He's just making sure you're paying attention. He's telling you to do your homework and see what has worked and what has not. Nearly all the questions to ask have been asked at one time, so the info is out there. Just be sure it's good info you read.:doah:
 
#16
He's just making sure you're paying attention. He's telling you to do your homework and see what has worked and what has not. Nearly all the questions to ask have been asked at one time, so the info is out there. Just be sure it's good info you read.:doah:
Thanks, but, I haven't asked any questions. I've just acted like an a-hole. You're welcome.
 
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#18
Hey Shawn once again BIG thanks on trying to help me figure out my carb situation, I enjoyed talking with you on the phone the other day and look forward to more in the future. By the way that's looks and sounds like one hell of an engine.

Now I don't mean to do this to your thread but I have to get a few things off my chest concerning Newoldstock or should I say cock. Now I do know that you(NOS) has lots of knowlege and info on these engines but there seems to be times where it seems like you just enjoy talking chit or telling people there stuff won't work. I say this because a while back I had made a thread about my Gx160 that was heavily modded and let me tell you that you gave me all kinds of un-needed stress and made think that I had wasted my time and money. You said the parts wouldn't work together and that I was waisting my time with a smaller engine only for it to most likely blow up. But then I read this thread and if I understand correctly you are just starting to mess with some of the aftermarket cams for these engines. That makes me think that you don't know near as much as you act like.
You seem to mention the clone valvetrain parts being weak and causing failures but most of these build threads I read about aren't even using stock clone parts but instead upgraded aftermarket parts, so...

Now I have only played with my Lil PeeWee engine a little bit but it all went together and has worked flawlessly so far. I would also put money on it that it would give you a hell of a run for your money.

This may upset people and possibly get me banned but it is just my opinion that you(NOS) are a smurfing douche.
 
#19
To answere your comment Caseyslowgto.

I have not raced what I know will not end the day in one piece.

Lets say we were to race your bike against one of mine.
Would we drag race on a street?
Or would we run a 4 stage off road race?

I have yet to see a big cam big valve engine run consistently up here with what we do, but I won't lie to you and say I am not scared of them.

I even have built one, but I won't realy say I have it right and that it or any one of the others that forced me to build it can win.

Hence old reliable smaller and safer is in reserve.

And I don't think anything you posted is so offensive it would get you banned.
Hardly....
You have pointed out a glaring example of my own ignorance and prejudice against things I think will not work and have not tried in a race simply because everyone else who I have seen has tried it and failed.

Your mileage may vary

NOS ( the smurfing douche....)
 
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