how to clutch brake?

ianmanning26

ianmanning26

New Member
#1
#1
my clutch is 4 and 1 half inches wide so I need to know if I get the 4.5 inch brake drums in order to make a clutch brake or if I need to get a 4 in 3 quarter inch clutch drum brake to compensate for the drum brake pads. I can't think of a better way to explain it except that I don't want the clutch drum to be squeezing the clutch while I'm not pulling the brake lever.
does that make sense to anyone? Any advice would be appreciated thank you. also if someone out there has done this before can you please give me a list of parts that I will need in order to install a clutch drum brake on my old style doodlebug with a 4.5 inch clutch.
 
ianmanning26

ianmanning26

New Member
#2
#2
I found quite a few posts about this but no definitive answer. should the band be the same diameter as the clutch or should it be a little bigger or smaller? I dont want it to rub by I also want to make sure it closes tightly.
 
gbabins1

gbabins1

Active Member
#3
#3
TANKSAREUS said:
Hey ianmanning26

My mini is also going to use a band brake for the clutch, this is my first time doing this and have had nothing to go on except info found hear.

I have a 4.5 inch clutch and have ordered a 4.5 inch band.

I attached a sketch of how the setup works and from what I understand once the band is attached to the anchor pin there is enough spring to keep it off the clucth.
If you order a band brake to large, the ends will touch and it will have no brakes.

Size for size is the way I'm going - give it a bash
Click to expand...



Tank,
I made a band brake also...and I believe that you'll want to flip your clutch around 180 degrees from your picture. I made mine pretty much the same as your diagram, except the cable grabbed from the bottom of the brake. It didn't work very well. The clutch ( when spinning) is trying to open the band brake instead of closing it tighter when the brake is applied. So I flipped mine around..... I learned this from some other members on here (so I can't take credit, but thought I would share my findings) I tried mine out this weekend....it works AWESOME!! In fact, it stops better than some of my other mini's with slightly worn disk brakes :thumbsup: will lock up the rear wheel with no problem!!
I'm going to try to start a thread on my build this week... and from there you'll be able to see what I mean.
 
gbabins1

gbabins1

Active Member
#5
#5
opps... my bad. :doah: I didn't pay attention to the fact that it would be grabbing from the top and therefore winding the brake tighter. I just saw the direction of the brake and remember what happened to me when I did it... but like I said, I had the cable grabbing from the bottom instead. I flipped mine around this weekend... and you were right, grabs and stops perfectly ... thanks for the input KK.

I do apologize for the misunderstanding.
 
gbabins1

gbabins1

Active Member
#6
#6
matt2 said:
This is what I used It works great. I have used this on a briggs 2 and 3hp I have heard that this will work on a 5hp on a deferent hole. I got this from a guy on youtube.



Click to expand...

That's how mine is now on my clone ... works like a charm:thumbsup:
 
MB165

MB165

Active Member
#8
#8
When I bought my TX4 it had the band positioned to apply in the opposite direction of rotation. It worked OK. I reversed it so the rotation would have some self-energising effect when applied.....it was way too sensitive, either off or wanting to lock up. I changed it back. I think the small tire size had something to do with there being a lack of leverage working against the brake.
 
ianmanning26

ianmanning26

New Member
#9
#9
awesome advice and input as usual guys thank you very much that's everything I needed to know so I can order the right parts I appreciate it and will be on the road this weekend.
 
KustomKartKid

KustomKartKid

Administrator
#10
#10
MB165 said:
When I bought my TX4 it had the band positioned to apply in the opposite direction of rotation. It worked OK. I reversed it so the rotation would have some self-energising effect when applied.....it was way too sensitive, either off or wanting to lock up.
Click to expand...
....in a case like that it helps to slide a compression spring over the cable between the band ends to limit the self energizing effect...I have one on my trike now....you may need to play around with the spring length/stiffness to get it just right...

 
T

Tracy1966

New Member
#12
#12
KustomKart said:
....when possible use a hole through the anchor bolt so the cable passes through and draws the band up uniformly around the drum or bell providing the maximum contact area......
Click to expand...
AIIEEE!!! Mine is on backwards!!! :doah: I broke my left thumb several months ago and when I finally got around to installing the brake I noticed that I couldn't stop very well and just figured my (still) busted thumb was the problem. Wow, thank you!!
 
ianmanning26

ianmanning26

New Member
#14
#14
I think you have to buy a special sprocket if you want to run a band brake on the rear, at least for a doodlebug. Its so much cheaper to just buy the band, cable and pin than it would be to buy a whole hub and sprocket assembly. I could be wrong but I don't think the band would work on a stock doodlebug rear sprocket. If it would I would definitely go that route because if your chain breaks and you are running a clutch brake you are pretty much screwed unless you have some sort of secondary or back up brake system. I'm going to leave my rear disk brake on and just move the handle over to the right side. It will be awkward but I want to know that I can stop if my chain breaks. has anyone ran a clutch brake and a disc brake at the same time? if so can you please post pictures so I can see how you did it thank you
 
R

rmm727

Active Member
#16
#16
JamnJM said:
IMO the clutch gets too hot for a brake and can't you use this type on the back sprocket hub instead? JMO....:shrug:
Click to expand...
I agree with you if the band brake is one of the crappy ones with a rubber like lining. If its a nicer one with an automotive type lining, I doubt the clutch gets any hotter than a drum would on its own in a normal band brake setup.
 
KustomKartKid

KustomKartKid

Administrator
#17
#17
I have the factory clutch band brake on a Bird Engineering Golden Pinto and it's by far the best brake of the 12 bikes I own...stop on a dime and give nine cents change....it handled the "monster hill" at Windber with no problem...I don't worry about the chain breaking!!!! ( Of course it also has a scrub brake for back up..:rolleyes:)



.
 
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ianmanning26

ianmanning26

New Member
#18
#18
ok so i took you guy's how to's and gave it a shot. I got my band installed and it seems like its going to work besides one problem. Now that i have it hooked up, what can i do to secure the end of the cable sleeve so it doesnt move. i need to come up with some way to put a hand grip stlye cable housing on the clutch brake assembly. I see that alot of you guys have some sort of 90 degree metal bracket. exactly where did you get those or did you fab them up? thanks, ill post some pics tonight so you guys can see what im talking about.
and whats keeping you brake cable secure?
 
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