How to fix an untrue wheel

[vegetable]

every time i buy a wheel from gopowersports this always happens

https://streamable.com/ryc4av

getting a bit tired of my drive wheels doing this, i have no money to buy another (and it probably will be the same), how can i fix it?

 

[RobertC]

Hello @vegetable

I have seen this mentioned many times here. Some of the folks with experience will be along.

My first suggestion is to take your wheel apart, and turn one side 180° to see if that makes a difference.

If you have a pair, and both are out...swap halves, and see if that has any affect.

C'mon folks...what are the solutions you've implemented ?

 

[Augiedoggie]

Stamped wheels are notoriously out of whack. Good advice was given for you to re index wheel to next set of bolt holes to get it true. I use hub to set on lathe to true them. You can use cheap harbor freight wheel truing stand or wheel balancer fixture to simulate a hub on lathe. If you don't have those you can mount wheel without tire on axle and use stationary object as visual reference point and rotate wheel against it to sight your out of round or runout. Rawhide hammer will set it right for you. Mark your runout with crayon and give er a slap with rawhide mallet until she's true.

 

[creia]

Is that one of those Azusa Engineering "Tri-Star"wheels? If so, you are pretty much screwed. Those wheels are crap right out of the factory as far as running true...
Michael

 

[vegetable]

Is that one of those Azusa Engineering "Tri-Star"wheels? If so, you are pretty much screwed. Those wheels are crap right out of the factory as far as running true...
Michael

nah this is one of the 4 bolt drive wheels from gopowersports, came with studs but i got rid of them on one side, its a solid wheel with no spokes, i can get some more pictures today

Stamped wheels are notoriously out of whack. Good advice was given for you to re index wheel to next set of bolt holes to get it true. I use hub to set on lathe to true them. You can use cheap harbor freight wheel truing stand or wheel balancer fixture to simulate a hub on lathe. If you don't have those you can mount wheel without tire on axle and use stationary object as visual reference point and rotate wheel against it to sight your out of round or runout. Rawhide hammer will set it right for you. Mark your runout with crayon and give er a slap with rawhide mallet until she's true.

would a rubber mallet work with this too or is a rawhide one a better option.

 

[vegetable]

Stamped wheels are notoriously out of whack. Good advice was given for you to re index wheel to next set of bolt holes to get it true. I use hub to set on lathe to true them. You can use cheap harbor freight wheel truing stand or wheel balancer fixture to simulate a hub on lathe. If you don't have those you can mount wheel without tire on axle and use stationary object as visual reference point and rotate wheel against it to sight your out of round or runout. Rawhide hammer will set it right for you. Mark your runout with crayon and give er a slap with rawhide mallet until she's true.

built this stand using some scrap pieces around my garage and do i have to take off the rotor and the sprocket? and do i have to hit right where the flanges are?

 

[Augiedoggie]

Flange bends if beaten too hard. You can angle your mallet hits under the flange rim to distribute the mallet blow to stronger surface area. Wooden drift can help if you need to smack hub face around. Rotate wheel and mark your desired high spots with crayon and be patient when straightening. Doesn't have to be perfect but you would like to keep runout .125-.187

 

[vegetable]

Flange bends if beaten too hard. You can angle your mallet hits under the flange rim to distribute the mallet blow to stronger surface area. Wooden drift can help if you need to smack hub face around. Rotate wheel and mark your desired high spots with crayon and be patient when straightening. Doesn't have to be perfect but you would like to keep runout .125-.187

i hope i dont make the rim unusuable trying to hit it like this, a rubber mallet will work for this too? and also should i take the rotor and sprocket off to make it easier to hit the flange, but it would be harder to tell whether it is straight

the hub face itself is fine, its just the flange that needs to be whacked

 

[vegetable]

Flange bends if beaten too hard. You can angle your mallet hits under the flange rim to distribute the mallet blow to stronger surface area. Wooden drift can help if you need to smack hub face around. Rotate wheel and mark your desired high spots with crayon and be patient when straightening. Doesn't have to be perfect but you would like to keep runout .125-.187

i think i screwed the wheel up more so i stopped and now i dont know what to do, i dont want to waste money on another wheel only for it to be the same as the one that i currently have

 

[creia]

i think i screwed the wheel up more so i stopped and now i dont know what to do, i dont want to waste money on another wheel only for it to be the same as the one that i currently have

Note to self: Stop buying wheels from Gopowersports!!
Michael

 

[vegetable]

Note to self: Stop buying wheels from Gopowersports!!
Michael

that i will do... just dont know where i can find a wheel that is properly true right out the box...

 

[RobertC]

that i will do... just dont know where i can find a wheel that is properly true right out the box...

I'd suggest using a wanted ad here on the forum, for the correct wheel and sprocket for your specific bike.

 

[Rick C.]

I too have been bitten by Gopowersports sub-standard parts. You shouldn't have to re-work or re-do brand new pieces that should come the way it was ordered to work.
I found this ,
Check this out...