Max Tor Clutch install

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Flyier

New Member
#1
#1
Newbie - here with a question on isntalling a Max Tor clutch which I could not answer by using the search button. When installing a Max TTor clutch on the 6.5 HF engine are shim washers used on the crank side ? Pro Mod send 2 shim washers but they don't take up all the clearence on that side ? Do you lock dn the set screws ? and lastly if no set screws are used is it then just allowed to float back and forth.

I watched a video (for go carts) by Max Tor - Jim Donvan Sr and he states to let the clytch float back and forth and just the bolt/lockwasher and washer are needed threaded to the end of the crank shaft. Confused and app any help/guidenance.

Thanks
 
TomH

TomH

New Member
#4
#4
A max Torque clutch will have a key built in the fits in your keyway. All you do is put the two washers on the end of the shaft and tighten lightly the machine screw to hold the clutch on there. It will self center with your rear sprocket that way.
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#5
#5
I guess there are different opinions on this as Brad at Promod whom I bought the cluct from notes the two shim washer he supplied are suppose to take up the slack on the sprocket side (crank side) of the cluch and then the washer and lock washer will pull up tight to lock the clucth in place with no float at all and one should lock the set crew to the keyway.

Well with the 2 shims provided I have lots of float and tere is no way the 2 shims locks it in place. What do thers with thr predator eng find - do you end up with a clutch that floats or is locked in place with the shims ?

Thanks
 
texasfabguy

texasfabguy

New Member
#6
#6
Go karts let them float,on our mini's we make them tight. we don't have the side loads that go karts do on there axles.

No sense in banging the crap out of your key way if you don't need to. we take a grinder to the end of the shaft untill its flush.
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#7
#7
texasfabguy said:
Go karts let them float,on our mini's we make them tight. we don't have the side loads that go karts do on there axles.

No sense in banging the crap out of your key way if you don't need to. we take a grinder to the end of the shaft untill its flush.
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Thanks that is way Brad Pro Mod race parts explained to me, as such he will be sending me a few more shim washers as it turns out the new Predator engines shaft is a bit longer hence you need more than the 2 shim washers he normally sends - thanks for the help guys.

Flyier
 
C

chazdaddy

New Member
#8
#8
As with almost everything there are different opinions on how to mount these clutches. For example: Briggs says to tighten it against the crank and as mentioned above, Max-Torque says not to. :shrug:

If you mount the sprocket inboard and tighten it down hard against the crankshaft shoulder you may have a lot of fun getting the clutch off (hard to get off, happened to me).

Plus, it may mushroom the end of the clutch hub and you will have fun disassembling your clutch (hard to get drum off clutch hub, happened to me). Grinding the crank shoulder flat will probably eliminate this issue, so good idea. Or, if you wallow out the crank keyway, probably an easy repair to weld it and recut the keyway.

If you mount the clutch sprocket outboard, it is probably not an issue and you can get away with running the clutch tight on the crank (because that side of the clutch hub against the crank has plenty of beef to take the load). I think Max-Torque will also tell you to mount the sprocket outboard, but I like mine inboard unless I can't run it that way.

There is a washer for this purpose that I am using, but probably too expensive if that's all you need (shipping and additional minimum order charges apply). Go to the link and search for: AP5464 (Description: CRANK SPACER WASHER, FITS MAGNUM, STINGER & 3/4" BORE TITAN CLUTCHES, $ 3.36) :thumbsup:

Log On
 
ogygopsis

ogygopsis

#11
#11
Flyier, If you look at your crankshaft where it sticks out just past the crankcase bearing you will notice that it has been machined down from a larger diameter to the smaller diameter of the part of the crankshaft that has the keyway in it. To prevent cracking; this step down is not machined at a 90 degree angle but is usually given a sloping taper. The washers generally supplied with most clutches are tapered inside so that when they are slid on the crankshaft they fit nicely over this tapered part and give you a nice 90 degree square face up to which you can slide your clutch. Otherwise when you tighten your clutch onto the crankshaft it will wedge onto the tapered part and you'll play hell removing it. Set screws should always go over the key to keep it in one place and not let it float. Floating beats the hell out of the keyway in the crankshaft. Spacers should be used so that when the machine bolt and washer are tightened on the end of the crankshaft they make the clutch fit just snug enough so there is no play in or out. Then tighten down the set screws using blue or red loctite. Good luck. Ogy
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#12
#12
ogygopsis said:
Flyier, If you look at your crankshaft where it sticks out just past the crankcase bearing you will notice that it has been machined down from a larger diameter to the smaller diameter of the part of the crankshaft that has the keyway in it. To prevent cracking; this step down is not machined at a 90 degree angle but is usually given a sloping taper. The washers generally supplied with most clutches are tapered inside so that when they are slid on the crankshaft they fit nicely over this tapered part and give you a nice 90 degree square face up to which you can slide your clutch. Otherwise when you tighten your clutch onto the crankshaft it will wedge onto the tapered part and you'll play hell removing it. Set screws should always go over the key to keep it in one place and not let it float. Floating beats the hell out of the keyway in the crankshaft. Spacers should be used so that when the machine bolt and washer are tightened on the end of the crankshaft they make the clutch fit just snug enough so there is no play in or out. Then tighten down the set screws using blue or red loctite. Good luck. Ogy
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Ogy

Thanks for taking the time to full explain. ProMod supplied what they call are soft shim washers (3/4") that fit up against the radius on the crank. I asked if they are contoured to ft that area of the crank and Brad noted they are soft shim washers? Can one buy washers that are countoured to fit up against the crankshaft or is what Brad supplied (3/4 soft shim washers) what everyone uses.

Flyier
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#13
#13
Hopefully here are 2 photos - first one shows the crank with 2 shims washers being put on and the second one shows the clutch installed with 4 washers and the clutch is dead nuts even with the end of the shaft - wondering if 1 more shim should be used ? The bolt supplied and washer supplied will push it together.

View attachment 37611 View attachment 37612
 
Outlaw Ace

Outlaw Ace

#14
#14
Flyier said:
Ogy

Thanks for taking the time to full explain. ProMod supplied what they call are soft shim washers (3/4") that fit up against the radius on the crank. I asked if they are contoured to ft that area of the crank and Brad noted they are soft shim washers? Can one buy washers that are countoured to fit up against the crankshaft or is what Brad supplied (3/4 soft shim washers) what everyone uses.

Flyier
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Were you able to mark best answer in this section Ogy's post would be it. He has a way of explaining as if you're looking at a picture of it and although I have disagreed with him in the past I respect him and his vast wealth of knowledge. The kind of guy who's mind we get to pic if we're lucky, he offers it freely here and I for one appreciate it.:thumbsup: I don't shim mine but am not using a ProMod jackshaft. I use set screws and a end bolt in the crank if applicable.
 
ogygopsis

ogygopsis

#15
#15
Flyier, The trade name is "radius washer". I've never heard them called soft shim washers. It could be they call them soft shim because they will conform to the radius of the step-down as the components are tightened. It's confusing because Briggs & Stratton is adamant about using them on their motors where Max Torque doesn't have much of an opinion one way or the other. However, common sense and sixty years of experience favor using a radius washer. Try the soft shim and see if it does conform. If it doesn't; you can always order a new one. Good luck. Ogy
 
ttsquirrel

ttsquirrel

New Member
#16
#16
just thought i would put an FYI in.

as far as tightening the set screws on the shaft for the key, i just put a clone on a db30:thumbsup: and was using CTMINIS kit. in his detailed instruction CD, he did specify to tighten both set screws with the clutch that he included.

since putting in the clone, my daughter has abandoned her badger 100 with stock engine and promods j/s kit for the cloned db. :doah:

now i have to buy another hf engine to put in the badger :biggrin:

TT
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#17
#17
ttsquirrel said:
just thought i would put an FYI in.

as far as tightening the set screws on the shaft for the key, i just put a clone on a db30:thumbsup: and was using CTMINIS kit. in his detailed instruction CD, he did specify to tighten both set screws with the clutch that he included.

since putting in the clone, my daughter has abandoned her badger 100 with stock engine and promods j/s kit for the cloned db. :doah:

now i have to buy another hf engine to put in the badger :biggrin:

TT
Click to expand...
Did the kit include any special washers for the clutch install ?? Can you post the directions you got with the kit ?

Thks

Flyier
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#18
#18
ogygopsis said:
Flyier, The trade name is "radius washer". I've never heard them called soft shim washers. It could be they call them soft shim because they will conform to the radius of the step-down as the components are tightened. It's confusing because Briggs & Stratton is adamant about using them on their motors where Max Torque doesn't have much of an opinion one way or the other. However, common sense and sixty years of experience favor using a radius washer. Try the soft shim and see if it does conform. If it doesn't; you can always order a new one. Good luck. Ogy
Click to expand...
Ogy

Who sells them ? max Torq does not from what I see nor does OldMiniBikes ??

thanks
Flyier
 
ttsquirrel

ttsquirrel

New Member
#19
#19
Flyier said:
Did the kit include any special washers for the clutch install ?? Can you post the directions you got with the kit ?

Thks

Flyier
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i dont know if they were special washer. they were just included with the kit. i will post what the instructions stated later today when i can get the cd.

TT
 
ogygopsis

ogygopsis

#20
#20
Flyier said:
Ogy

Who sells them ? max Torq does not from what I see nor does OldMiniBikes ??

thanks
Flyier
Click to expand...
Flyier, I'm afraid I can't help you with that. The radius washer would have to have the same taper as the step-down on your crankshaft. Usually the engine manufacturer can help you out with something like that. A good lawnmower shop may be able to steer you in the right direction. Good luck. Ogy
 
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