max torque clutch install and oiling

#1
ok here we do a install and oiling of a max torque clutch .this will be how to mount one using the set screws .

ok check that the key fits in the slot on the crank and the clutch.

use a small rat tail file to remove any burs , or rust in the slot . the key should slide nice free no binding .

once you have the shaft and key way cleaned up so the clutch slide on easy . put some anti seize on the crank . if you dont have any go buy some . its really worth it . a little goes a long way and the time it saves dealing with stuck bolts and clutches is worth the price

this is the 16 oz can i have been using it for over 10 years on everything and still have a half can left . go buy some .

ok line up the key ways and get the key

if the key is too long like here . dont hammer it in pull the key out and cut it to the correct length.

if you must hammer the key in you must do it like this

note location of finger , now hammer on the key .if the clutch wont slide on the shaft with out binding grab a big hammer and hold the clutch and hit it as needed . once again note how to hold it


ok now that you have the clutch and key in place tighten up the set screws . you will want to check them a few times when you first ride . they can come loose just keep checking them from time to time . once you get them tight they will stay tight for a long time .
you can also put a bolt and washer on to hold the clutch in place if your crank is threaded . use a washer thats bigger then the hole for the crank on the clutch or the clutch will fly off on you .



ok now how to clean and oil your clutch .
you will need snap ring pliers ,if you dont have any go get some trust me . youll like having them makes thing go much faster (less trips to the hardware store for snap rings )

remove the snap ring on the pulley or sprocket side

with that ring gone you can split the drum from the weighs .

check the shaft for wear if it has wear replace it or get a new clutch .

now removing the snap ring inside the weighs you can remove the side plate holding the weighs and spring . be careful parts can go flying .

now look for any rust or old oil and clean it off . so off to the wire brush these parts go .

ok start with the center shaft and place the out side plate on it locking in the tabs



i find if you put the splice in the middle of a weigh its much easier to get the weights back in place . i line up 5 of the and flip the 6th one over .

now put the inner plate in place and squeeze . puting it in the bench vice to hold it works nice or c clamps you dont need to crank down on them just hold it in place


then just oil the bushing and put in the outside snap ring and your ready to go



as for what to use to oil the bushing on the clutch . just cheap motor oil 30 weight . you may also find mixes for using wax and oil they work fine too . its best to oil the bushing when its hot so oil it after you stop riding . and the oil will soak in better . you will want to oil your clutch about every 5 hours of use . more if doing alot of hills or in dusty trails . if you take good care of a clutch they can last you a long long time . this one is over 20 years old and has seen alot of hours of use





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#3
I was just thinkin about all the "special" questions that get asked around here and now I'm wondering how many broken fingers this thread will produce! :thumbsup::hammer:

Good tech, great humor!
 
#4
Has anyone ever used dry lube on that shaft bushing? does it work?

Ive used oil to lube clutches before and the oil seemed to burn off and the bushing would get all gunky and the clutch housing wouldnt spin freely on the bushing....it would do the "vibrate spin".

keep in mind my clutch was being used where it is dirty, rocky, and dusty.

nice use of "hand" tools!:smile:
 
#6
Mikesbike i know they do make a dry lube for the snowcat clutches . its a graphite based stuff , i have used a cable lube graphite on clutches before and they seemed to do ok with it and some oil not sure on long term tho .

how many broken fingers this thread will produce is a good question . but if someone dont know enough not to hit them selfs with a hammer maybe minis arnt your best choice of hobby .:doah:

KustomKartKid one of them old pop pop oil cans ? man i have like 8 of them !!:thumbsup: thats all i use is them , i even have repaired a few . have saved a few from the crusher in the local junk yard when i find them .
 
#7
KustomKartKid one of them old pop pop oil cans ? man i have like 8 of them !!:thumbsup: thats all i use is them , i even have repaired a few . have saved a few from the crusher in the local junk yard when i find them .
I love old stuff like that, reminds me of working with my grandpop...old railroad man :thumbsup:

He had one of those cans that looked like a big copper teapot...held 4 or 5 qts of oil with a flexible spout...when you pulled this little ring it would lift a stopper in the bottom of the can and dispense the oil.....:smile:
 
#12
It would best for you to purchase an inexpensive set of snap ring pliers so you can remove the drive teeth retaining snap ring and to get to the bushing-use only motor oil SAE30 per MaxTorque website. Properly maintained clutch should last you years.
 
#13
just pick up a cheap set of ring pliers . i got the set here for like 3 - 4 bucks a few years ago . you dont have to get the real expensive ones ,the cheap junk ones will work ok . and just plain cheap motor oil nothing fancy
 
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