It's no different than mounting a draw-through carburetor on the compressor inlet which was the main option before the proliferation of EFI. The compressor side of a turbo doesn't get nearly as hot as 500°C. I would expect 150°C at the upper end.
BMW put a huge throttle body on the compressor inlet with their M12/M13 turbo F1 engines in the mid '80s, presumably to reduce lag and eliminate the blowoff valve.
I tried it with a GT15 turbo, but the dynamic compressor seal wasn't able to hold the oil back under closed throttle(typical of dynamic seals).
BMW put a huge throttle body on the compressor inlet with their M12/M13 turbo F1 engines in the mid '80s, presumably to reduce lag and eliminate the blowoff valve.
I tried it with a GT15 turbo, but the dynamic compressor seal wasn't able to hold the oil back under closed throttle(typical of dynamic seals).
Shelby and Kenny, I erred in an earlier post on AFR's. I asked the kid yesterday what he was seeing on boost, and he said from 11.5 to 14 depending where he was at with the shifts, as it's hard to read fluctuating LED while driving it that hard. Says he gets a smoother acceleration near 12, but power output feels about the same up to 14. (No dyno) Just wanted to fix that.
Well guys i got a good few hours machining in between going to see family etc, i hope you all had a good christmas
I got the front hubs and disc mounted to the front wheel, Billet rear wheel mounts ( Still need some more weight taking out of them ), Bottom of the base plate and aswell as the jackshaft housing and support
I have machined cutouts into the bottom of the base so the big tabs im going to tig onto the frame will locate and take the stress rather than the bolts
I got the front hubs and disc mounted to the front wheel, Billet rear wheel mounts ( Still need some more weight taking out of them ), Bottom of the base plate and aswell as the jackshaft housing and support
I have machined cutouts into the bottom of the base so the big tabs im going to tig onto the frame will locate and take the stress rather than the bolts
When i first got it i thought dam… theres a lot of stuff to figure out and thought about putting it back in the box and putting a big slide carb on LOL, but after several e-mails with the EFI makers i have started to understand, another turning point is getting a book called Maximum boost by corky bell ( What a name lol ), it explains how a EFI should be setup and what happens
Heres me and my bike. I never could get it to work with their hall sensor. I tried a gy6 pickup and this video is the result. Always cutout at 6800rpms
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c6i0-BoZiro
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c6i0-BoZiro
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Max rpm set at 8500, flipped the magnet in my raceseng flywheel over to the proper pole. Definately close enough to the flywheel. I made abracket on the mazak with the m12x1.0 thread. Mounted between the stock coil bolts. Dont want to hijack your thread.
http://s174.photobucket.com/user/Chevy4x4722000/media/Mobile Uploads/Video12151854.mp4.html
http://s174.photobucket.com/user/Chevy4x4722000/media/Mobile Uploads/Video12151854.mp4.html
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Max rpm set at 8500, flipped the magnet in my raceseng flywheel over to the proper pole. Definately close enough to the flywheel. I made abracket on the mazak with the m12x1.0 thread. Mounted between the stock coil bolts. Dont want to hijack your thread.
Video12151854.mp4 Video by Chevy4x4722000 | Photobucket
Video12151854.mp4 Video by Chevy4x4722000 | Photobucket
Only thing i can think of is these hall sensors are designed to count teeth on a spur gear and maybe the stock magnet being around 5-10 times as wide maybe sending too long of a signal at high rpms what the ecu is setup for?
Max rpm set at 8500, flipped the magnet in my raceseng flywheel over to the proper pole. Definately close enough to the flywheel. I made abracket on the mazak with the m12x1.0 thread. Mounted between the stock coil bolts. Dont want to hijack your thread.
I agree, below is the magnetic field of a normal magnet, you can see that each end of the magnet the field is pushed out rather than together like in the middle, what maybe happening is with a stock magnet being longer than the hall sensor usually works with at each end of the magnet it is picking up a trigger signal, it would be intresting to see what rpm on the laptop aswell as a tacho around the sparkplug wire displays at high rpm
I agree, below is the magnetic field of a normal magnet, you can see that each end of the magnet the field is pushed out rather than together like in the middle, what maybe happening is with a stock magnet being longer than the hall sensor usually works with at each end of the magnet it is picking up a trigger signal, it would be intresting to see what rpm on the laptop aswell as a tacho around the sparkplug wire displays at high rpm
"For some engines, such as Honda GX160, GX390, or similar, the stock magnet is North polarity. And the some engines, such as Gx35, the stock magnet is South polarity.
Our Hall Effect Sensor is by default South-Pole Magnet trigged.
If you install this Hall sensor to an engine which has a North-pole magnet, you will have 2 pulses per revolution, one at the leading edge of the magnet; one is at the trailing edge. This will confuse the ECU and you may not even able to start the engine. You may start the engine, sometime, but the running may be unstable or stall at high RPM.
To fix this, we can provide a North Pole Hall effect sensor as the pick-up sensor, so you don’t need install an extra South Pole magnet. But you must tell us before the shipping of the EFI kit. So we can replace the S-pole Hall sensor with a N-pole sensor."