I have a genuine maxtorque ss clutch. Yes, I know they are crappy and worthless and there are better clutches out there which I would buy if I could afford them. So now that we've gone over that, I hope it will eliminate all the useless replies telling me to junk it or flaming me for asking for info. Now we can get to my question. The main issue I have with bushing type clutches is that when you let off the throttle, there is still friction between the bushing and drum, and while the weights have been pulled away from the drum, the friction between the bushing and the drum is keeping the clutch engaged for a few seconds or even longer. This is why you get engine braking with bushing type clutches. So, my question is this. Is it possible to convert a bushing clutch to a ball bearing or needle bearing to eliminate the friction/engine braking? Or am I crazy/stupid/total rookie for even thinking so? I have tried googling but none of the results have told me what I want to know or even gotten close to giving me an answer. Is there ANYTHING I can do to eliminate engine braking?
Mods/conversions for maxtorque clutch
- Thread starter dtv5403
- Start date
- Tags clutch maxtorque mods/conversions
Just buy a decent clutch?
Hate to be that guy, but it sounds as if you have identified bushing clutches as a poor design, or one that doesn't meet your needs.
Personally my clutch uses a side-thrust capacity roller bearing, but that design is very expensive.
I doubt a bushing clutch can be changed over to bearing, never heard of it but could be wrong. Perhaps a cheap used clutch of a superior design would be a better fit for your application?
- just my .02
Hate to be that guy, but it sounds as if you have identified bushing clutches as a poor design, or one that doesn't meet your needs.
Personally my clutch uses a side-thrust capacity roller bearing, but that design is very expensive.
I doubt a bushing clutch can be changed over to bearing, never heard of it but could be wrong. Perhaps a cheap used clutch of a superior design would be a better fit for your application?
- just my .02
4G T drive bearing conversion - Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit Forum this guy did a bushing to bearing conversion, but in my case I'm not sure if the same conversion is possible. The engine he did it on, the clutch shaft is separate from the crank shaft.
The gear drive assembly is splined to the drum assembly and retained by a snap ring. Theoretically one could weld on a bearing retainer to the outside of the drum assembly, and contain it with a machined groove for snap ring. The problem is that the clutch becomes too wide for the crankshaft with the addition of a bearing carrier, as well as the heat issues with bearings and lubricants.
Or as the previous poster tried to politely tell you, get a bearing clutch. I wouldn't. Friction clutches and needle or ball bearings do not belong together- at least for very long. No place to dissipate the heat, but through the bearing.
Jim Donovan (Max Torque owner) is well versed with mini bikes and karts from recreational riding to all out racing. He is very approachable, and if you are able to tone down the 'tude a bit, would probably answer your question directly.
There is a reason he uses the oil lite bushings in his clutches: Some of us are very keen on the products Jim puts out and use them exclusively.
Or as the previous poster tried to politely tell you, get a bearing clutch. I wouldn't. Friction clutches and needle or ball bearings do not belong together- at least for very long. No place to dissipate the heat, but through the bearing.
Jim Donovan (Max Torque owner) is well versed with mini bikes and karts from recreational riding to all out racing. He is very approachable, and if you are able to tone down the 'tude a bit, would probably answer your question directly.
There is a reason he uses the oil lite bushings in his clutches: Some of us are very keen on the products Jim puts out and use them exclusively.
I'm a Max Torque fan. There are some that run a needle bearing in certain sprockets. However, converting the standard $29 unit to a bearing hub would cost more in parts than purchasing a bearing equipped model. As Dave said, give Jim a shout. He's forgotten more than I will ever know about clutches, but I suspect you'll get a similar answer.
Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
Of course if someone felt the need to spend fifty hours modifying a clutch, they could easily set this up on a jack shaft. We know a guy who welded on pipe for a bearing carrier to a belt driven, installed the bearings, then welded on a 10t #41 sprocket to it. Lots of precision welding and machining required. A driver sprocket that large is more than what most people can use. Using it on a jackshaft eliminates gearing problems associated with that, as well as the length limitations of crankshafts. Having the ability to go wide would help with heat dissipation.
The only lockup would occur when the bearing eventually failed. Which it would.
The only lockup would occur when the bearing eventually failed. Which it would.
If the clutch is on the jackshaft that might be why it doesn't disengage. Is it possible that the chain between the axle & the jackshaft is forcing it to spin above the engagement RPM and won't disengage until it falls below that level? Whereas when it is mounted to the engine the RPMs fall when you let off the gas.
If my theory is totally off base my other suggestion is to a) make sure the chain is not overly tight b) oil the bushings frequently with a light weight oil and c) just a suggestion here - disassemble the clutch & spray the metal surfaces that the bushing ride against with a dry graphite lube or comet gp-730a clutch lube. Both impregnate the metal, dry and don't attract dust.
If my theory is totally off base my other suggestion is to a) make sure the chain is not overly tight b) oil the bushings frequently with a light weight oil and c) just a suggestion here - disassemble the clutch & spray the metal surfaces that the bushing ride against with a dry graphite lube or comet gp-730a clutch lube. Both impregnate the metal, dry and don't attract dust.
You guys are a bunch of a-holes! Let's help this guy!
To add a caged roller bearing to a Max-T clutch is easy! First of all, there is not enough room in the clutch as it sits currently. Take the jackshaft and have it turned down to the appropriate size after finding a suitable bearing. You will need to have the jackshaft heat treated to make sure the bearing will survive. Pull the bronze bushing from the Max-T clutch and have a steel sleeve made to replace it. Be sure to heat treat that too! Have the new steel bushing pressed in. Now you can put all the pieces together and collar the ends to make them hold the bearings in. Voila! Done! Now you have spent $300+ on a $30 clutch! Be a pioneer! Get this done and report back to these "nay sayers"!
To add a caged roller bearing to a Max-T clutch is easy! First of all, there is not enough room in the clutch as it sits currently. Take the jackshaft and have it turned down to the appropriate size after finding a suitable bearing. You will need to have the jackshaft heat treated to make sure the bearing will survive. Pull the bronze bushing from the Max-T clutch and have a steel sleeve made to replace it. Be sure to heat treat that too! Have the new steel bushing pressed in. Now you can put all the pieces together and collar the ends to make them hold the bearings in. Voila! Done! Now you have spent $300+ on a $30 clutch! Be a pioneer! Get this done and report back to these "nay sayers"!
LMAO! And I totally expended brain cells on this. :laugh: I'd been looking into some Powell "driven" mods that basically required the bearing, a torque for it, and a chain sprocket welded outside of it. (Comet 30 conversion to Powell drive system)
I know, right? :laugh: I said how it could be done. George3 did the same basic mod on a belt driven. He won't do it again for any amount of money.
I know, right? :laugh: I said how it could be done. George3 did the same basic mod on a belt driven. He won't do it again for any amount of money.