Monster Moto MMB-80 with Predator 212 and Torque Converter

ShapeShifter

ShapeShifter

Member
#1
#1
It did take some modification of the frame and of the back plate on the TC but now that it's done, it looks like it came from the factory this way. Like every Lifan engine I have ever dealt with, the Predator 212 runs like a top and starts on first pull. I have it bone stock. Im not really used to these pull-start type bikes but it runs pretty smooth. I wish the throttle did not seem so ...I dunno.... crunchy? Next step - better brakes :wink:.

Anyway, here she is.


 
ShapeShifter

ShapeShifter

Member
#5
#5
Stangrcr1 said:
Looks great! :thumbsup:
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OND said:
Man that does look great ! :thumbsup: I bet it will roll to !
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jbrocks said:
I love the way that 212 fits the frame space like a glove. Nice job!
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Thanks guys!

The engine sits a little further toward the rear than I wanted but it worked out. I did not want to do a lot of cutting on the frame but some cutting was necessary for the "glove like" fit.


I took just a butt-hair off the stock airbox.

web20141116_111230.jpg

The new steel part of the frame is just behind the driven pulley. I designed, measured, and cut the pieces, and a friend did the welding.

web20141130_185052.jpg
 
motomonster212cc

motomonster212cc

#8
#8
What kind of TC and cover is that? I'm installing the same engine on my monster moto mmb 80. All I have at the moment is the actual bike (minus the factory engine) and the predator engine.
 
ShapeShifter

ShapeShifter

Member
#10
#10
I put a hydraulic brake on it and now it is not so scary :scared:. I used a complete rear brake setup from a kids ATV. They're cheap and come pre-bled. Took about 15 minutes to install it - and it shows!

web20141218_211814.jpg web20141215_180141.jpg
 
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slash pine

New Member
#11
#11
ShapeShifter said:
It did take some modification of the frame and of the back plate on the TC but now that it's done, it looks like it came from the factory this way. Like every Lifan engine I have ever dealt with, the Predator 212 runs like a top and starts on first pull. I have it bone stock. Im not really used to these pull-start type bikes but it runs pretty smooth. I wish the throttle did not seem so ...I dunno.... crunchy? Next step - better brakes :wink:.

Anyway, here she is.
Click to expand...
Hi, I'm a new member and I recently purchased an MMB80...I live in a mountainous region and the bike will simply not go up any type of hill, even ones that are not steep at all...it will barely pull itself up a hill without a rider...!

My first thoughts were to change one or both of the sprockets but I am also considering re-powering it with something like the Predator 212...I'm quite comfortable making modification and fabricating mechanical stuff...(can cut, weld and paint)

My questions are...would just the increase in HP make the bike get up a hill? Do you have any pictures of the modifications you had to make to the frame, plate? or could you briefly explain them?

Thanks, and it looks like you did a great job on the mod....
 
ShapeShifter

ShapeShifter

Member
#12
#12
slash pine said:
Hi, I'm a new member and I recently purchased an MMB80...I live in a mountainous region and the bike will simply not go up any type of hill, even ones that are not steep at all...it will barely pull itself up a hill without a rider...!

My first thoughts were to change one or both of the sprockets but I am also considering re-powering it with something like the Predator 212...I'm quite comfortable making modification and fabricating mechanical stuff...(can cut, weld and paint)

My questions are...would just the increase in HP make the bike get up a hill? Do you have any pictures of the modifications you had to make to the frame, plate? or could you briefly explain them?

Thanks, and it looks like you did a great job on the mod....
Click to expand...
Hey,

Oh yes, the 212 is the engine for this bike. I am keeping the govenor on, there is not reason to take it off. I easily got to over 40mph per a GPS and had LOTS more throttle to twist before I backed down, mainly because I was afraid the cheesy tires would come apart. I live on a sloped street and the stock engine would not get me up the slope. The 212 has more torque than you will need and will pull you up anything. I have a torque converter to so the power is just amplified.

You could run a straight clutch and not have to modify the frame at all. Just shave the front oil plug flush, and push the engine forward against the foot peg bar. The only other thing you need to do is remove a small part of the airbox like shown below. Mark and drill holes and boom, new power plant.

web20141116_111230.jpg

If you want to add a Comet TC, you will need to modify the frame, and the back plate of the TC.

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S

slash pine

New Member
#13
#13
ShapeShifter said:
Hey,

Oh yes, the 212 is the engine for this bike. I am keeping the govenor on, there is not reason to take it off. I easily got to over 40mph per a GPS and had LOTS more throttle to twist before I backed down, mainly because I was afraid the cheesy tires would come apart. I live on a sloped street and the stock engine would not get me up the slope. The 212 has more torque than you will need and will pull you up anything. I have a torque converter to so the power is just amplified.

You could run a straight clutch and not have to modify the frame at all. Just shave the front oil plug flush, and push the engine forward against the foot peg bar. The only other thing you need to do is remove a small part of the airbox like shown below. Mark and drill holes and boom, new power plant.


If you want to add a Comet TC, you will need to modify the frame, and the back plate of the TC.

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Thanks a million for the reply and the pics are great!...At some point I may consider the TC but for now I am motivated to do just the engine/clutch (and maybe the hyd. brake) conversion...in the future I may want to put the oem engine back on...

It looks like you used the same rear sprocket but did you not have to change the clutch to a 3/4" (shaft)? how many teeth on the clutch would you suggest for scooting up hills? I think the rear sprocket has 75 teeth and the clutch has 11 teeth...?

Thanks again and another hats off to your bike...:thumbsup:
 
ShapeShifter

ShapeShifter

Member
#14
#14
slash pine said:
Thanks a million for the reply and the pics are great!...At some point I may consider the TC but for now I am motivated to do just the engine/clutch (and maybe the hyd. brake) conversion...in the future I may want to put the oem engine back on...

It looks like you used the same rear sprocket but did you not have to change the clutch to a 3/4" (shaft)? how many teeth on the clutch would you suggest for scooting up hills? I think the rear sprocket has 75 teeth and the clutch has 11 teeth...?

Thanks again and another hats off to your bike...:thumbsup:
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I never used a clutch, but I did buy an 11t one. It needs to be 3/4" shaft for the 212. Honestly, there is so much torque, get the biggest sprocket you can find. It wants to wheelie when you twist it, even when moving.

If you are constantly on hills, you may want to think about the TC.
 
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slash pine

New Member
#17
#17
@ ShapeShifter... a couple of questions if you don't mind...

Did you have to adjust/modify the rear fender at all?...it seems the valve cover hits it before the air box interferes with the frame...?

Also is there any reason I shouldn't move the installation a bit to the right of center?...it seem at first glance that this could help in two ways...it will (just barely) eliminate removing part of the air box and also make it a little easier to modify the OEM clutch/chain guard so it will work??...I really won't be able to assess the options for real until I have the clutch (tomorrow) also at first glance it looks like I may need a 3/4 lock collar to keep the clutch aligned?...just looking for some experienced advice...!

On another note...I'm considering making a recess (for the front crankcase drain plug) in the cross tube rather than cutting the plug off so it fits flush...(i.e., bore a hole in the tube and round off the plug??

Thanks in advance for any insights...from anyone...

/....
 
ShapeShifter

ShapeShifter

Member
#18
#18
slash pine said:
@ ShapeShifter... a couple of questions if you don't mind...

Did you have to adjust/modify the rear fender at all?...it seems the valve cover hits it before the air box interferes with the frame...?
Click to expand...
I un bolted the bottom bolt on the rear fender and swung ust the bottom of the fender rearward. I intended to make a little extender plate to go from the frame hole to the fender hole but I just put a ziptie on there for now. The valve cover barely clears.

slash pine said:
Also is there any reason I shouldn't move the installation a bit to the right of center?...it seem at first glance that this could help in two ways...it will (just barely) eliminate removing part of the air box and also make it a little easier to modify the OEM clutch/chain guard so it will work??...I really won't be able to assess the options for real until I have the clutch (tomorrow) also at first glance it looks like I may need a 3/4 lock collar to keep the clutch aligned?...just looking for some experienced advice...!
Click to expand...
The position of the engine athwart-ships, or laterally, or left-to-right is controlled completely by sprocket alignment. My engine sits so the TC output sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket align. As it turns out, this perfectly centers the engine on the bike from recoil start to TC cover. It also allows access to the fuel cap (see pic).

web20141205_134219.jpg
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Your clutch application may be different and your engine placement will follow suit. Make sure you alighn sprockets before you mark and drill holes for engine. They do make adjuster plates that might fit but 1. it raises the engine and, 2. you have to mark and drill holes in your stock engine plate anyway. Your choice.

slash pine said:
On another note...I'm considering making a recess (for the front crankcase drain plug) in the cross tube rather than cutting the plug off so it fits flush...(i.e., bore a hole in the tube and round off the plug??

Thanks in advance for any insights...from anyone...

/....
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To me, notching the crossbar is far more work than simply shaving or replacing the front oil plug. There is an oil plug in the rear also so could completely plug the front drain hole and never need it. Also, notching that crossbar is just asking water and mud to get in there, and compromises the integrity of the frame structure (very slightly).

The oil plug is a 10mm bolt with an aluminum crush washer to seal it. I just cut the head off the bolt and tossed the crush washer, then slotted the bolt to drive it and sealed it with Teflon tape and little copper Permatex - boom done.

web20141116_104713.jpg
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