Muffler Help Please!

L

LilIndianRestore

New Member
#1
#1
I have a rusted and badly dented muffler on a 3hp Briggs and Stratton engine and really want to remove it. The muffler is screwed tightly into an adapter which screws tightly into the engine. I tried a wrench and spraying some WD-40 into the threads but it didn't move with a wrench. Do you recommend heating the muffler threads a little and then try it. The engine is not running soI can't run it and then try to unscrew it.

Thanks any help would be great
Nick
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#2
#2
is the adapter cast iron pipe fittings, or steel tubing? If it's iron, a pipe wrench and a LOT of torque will some times get them broke loose.. If it's steel tubing some times you can use like a cold chisel and cut directly down from the top and try to concave the pipe inwards and bend it inside out basically and shrink down the size of the tube itself.. You have to be careful about beating and ripping and tearing on them but they can handle some abuse.. Use your best judgement there..

But yeah you could try heating the engine block around the muffler area with a propane torch or something and try to swell the aluminum up some.. Although iron and steel hold heat a LOT better than aluminum so heating the motor without heating the pipe will be a trick..

Most guys on here swear by that PB Blaster penetrating oil... I would say if it is being THAT big of a pain in the butt soak it in some PB Blaster every so often for a day or two THEN try wrenching it out...
 
Oldsalt

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
IMHO the SAFEST way is to cut off the pipe not too far from the block and useing a die grinder cut out the inside of the threaded fitting, on two sides, until you see the tops of aluminum threads. It will then unscrew without danger of distroying the pipe threads. The problem is that the soft aluminum against steel threads likes to gall. Exhaust systems are prone to what is what is affectionally called "carbon fuseing". We have all seen engines with the threads gone. However, if you feel lucky go after it with a big wrench. Heat can also be a help or a danger. As the aluminum threads get really soft long before the steel threads, caution must be used. I know I'm rambling but I have a good collection of engines that date from 1907 to 1952. I take it easy and don't get in a hurry if some 100year old fitting or bolt won't budge useing reasomnable pressure.
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#5
#5
Oldsalt said:
IMHO the SAFEST way is to cut off the pipe not too far from the block and useing a die grinder cut out the inside of the threaded fitting, on two sides, until you see the tops of aluminum threads. It will then unscrew without danger of distroying the pipe threads. The problem is that the soft aluminum against steel threads likes to gall. Exhaust systems are prone to what is what is affectionally called "carbon fuseing". We have all seen engines with the threads gone. However, if you feel lucky go after it with a big wrench. Heat can also be a help or a danger. As the aluminum threads get really soft long before the steel threads, caution must be used. I know I'm rambling but I have a good collection of engines that date from 1907 to 1952. I take it easy and don't get in a hurry if some 100year old fitting or bolt won't budge useing reasomnable pressure.
Click to expand...
:lol: I almost mentioned cutting it apart but them shyed away until we see what happens with 2 days of PB Blaster, then go from there... :lol: Sooooooo whats the 1907 engine? :shrug: Older the better :cool2:
 
oldfatguy

oldfatguy

Active Member
#6
#6
lay the engine down with the ports facing up and fill the exhaust port with penetrating oil or kerosene and let it sit a day or so. make sure you loosen the jam nut where the pipe enters the block. give the fitting next to the block a few good raps with a hammer,but not hard enough to break any thing you just want the vibration to break it loose. now try a pipe wrench again. I that doesn't work drill a hole about 3/8" thru both sides of the pipe so that you can stick a big screw driver thru the pipe and use that to turn it. save the cutting as a last resort for when all there is a nub sticking out that you can't grab. so far this has gotten out every stuck muffler that I have had. you have to get the oil to the threads heating the block and pipe will help but be care full not to over do it . perseverance and patients will win in the end. let us know how you make out. GOOD LUCK
 
Oldsalt

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#8
#8
The Restore Kid said:
:lol: I almost mentioned cutting it apart but them shyed away until we see what happens with 2 days of PB Blaster, then go from there... :lol: Sooooooo whats the 1907 engine? :shrug: Older the better :cool2:
Click to expand...

The red engine is my 1907 Majestic 4 HP. The other picture is my latest acquasition a 1916 Fuller-Johnson 7 HP. Parts as you know are sometimes hard to come by so, as you said, patience is really necessary when working on them.
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#9
#9
Heres a very select few that survived the Estate Auction at the farm... :sad: Most ours were unrestored or pretty well just found all over the country fixed up by Grandpa some 20-50 years ago... 5 horse Galloway, the one we called the Tullip but it's some weird German made and named.. It's 4 or 5 horse probably.. The train car has a Fairmont hit and miss but don't think it's very old.. 1940"s 30's 40's :shrug:


[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
 
L

LilIndianRestore

New Member
#11
#11
Sorry haven't been checking this thread in a while but decided to put the project off until the summer begins for me, which is about next week.

Thanks so much for all the help! Keep you all posted with the results.
Nick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top