so i ordered this #35 3/4" 12T clutch + 4' of #35 chain. and this Baja Doodle bug db30 engine upgrade plate and im buying the predator 212 in store when all the other stuff comes. i was just wondering if i needed anything else,what tools do i need to use and roughly how long will it take to put on my db. Thanks and im sure you guys get this alot so sorry in advance.
need help with predator 212cc
- Thread starter naterdud
- Start date
- Tags 212cc. predator doodle bug engine swap
it is the old db.But i was watching video and a guy had to cut links of his original chain do i have to do this for the one i ordered and does the clutch come with the bolt to put it on. also what oil should i use. i live in the midwest so its cold so i dont know if theres special oil for that? thanks and if anyone has any posts or videos explaining how to put engine on with engine plate it would GREATLY HELP! thanks!
Re-
I just installed a 212 in old style striaght frame so I did not have to cut the fender, butt had to remove 2 chain links. I used a #35 tool for this. You can also use a drimel with grinder wheel. When you have more Q's I will try my best to answer. This was my 1st rodeo also. Came out pretty good...
I just installed a 212 in old style striaght frame so I did not have to cut the fender, butt had to remove 2 chain links. I used a #35 tool for this. You can also use a drimel with grinder wheel. When you have more Q's I will try my best to answer. This was my 1st rodeo also. Came out pretty good...
I would get, or make a clutch guard. I mean, technically, you don't really need one, but technically, you don't really need brakes, my first minibike had neither a clutch guard or brakes, but if you like your left leg, I would get a clutch guard. Even if you don't have a welder, you can make a decent guard out of some flat-bar. Just bend a piece over the clutch and bend a few mounting bracket and bolt the whole thing together. The Predator is extremely easy to hook up a throttle on, already has all the mounting hardware right out of the box for either a rear, or side mounted throttle.
For oil, I would run a cheap dyno 10w-30oil for the break-in period, then switch to a synthetic 10w-30. People will argue about this endlessly, but I run and own a lot of smaller engines in rough terrain. (I own a lawn care company with something like 16-20 small engines, not counting 2 cycle or hand held stuff). My engine life increased HUGE when I started running full synthetic oils. I get about 2x the lifespan, and my mowers have hour meters, so that is not just a wild guess.
For oil, I would run a cheap dyno 10w-30oil for the break-in period, then switch to a synthetic 10w-30. People will argue about this endlessly, but I run and own a lot of smaller engines in rough terrain. (I own a lawn care company with something like 16-20 small engines, not counting 2 cycle or hand held stuff). My engine life increased HUGE when I started running full synthetic oils. I get about 2x the lifespan, and my mowers have hour meters, so that is not just a wild guess.
