Newbie needs help with my first mini bike build

#25
Here is another photo showing the cable clamp and the extra spring that I added to make sure that the throttle returns to idle. I don't like high throttle twist effort, so I used a light spring hooked up to the cotter pin loop. Please excuse the dirt on the engine, I haven't ridden since the Windber Reunion.
Hope that you and the grandkids get some riding in before the snow flies!
As sparkwizard always says, "Have fun and be safe. IMG_6240.jpg "
 
#26
Open for discussion. After reading all of your tips (I really appreciate them) I have decided how I want to proceed. Let me know any thoughts.

I am going to drill a new hole in the plate, see attached pic. I will then use one of the cable anchors in the other pic to slide the cable through and tighten it up. The hole will allow the bolt of the cable anchor to go through and the anchor will be on the cable side. No crinking of the wire is needed, etc.

The nut will be on the inside of the throttle plate and the cable, anchor will on the outside.
 

Attachments

#27
That anchor is NOT going to allow any pivot, and you might need a pretty big hole to push it through.
PLUS, you can't easily attach a throttle return spring to your idea.
Look at what @hermans13 was showing you. cheap, simple, no fabricating, and the parts are doing what (someone else) designed them to do.
Just my opinion, which you did ask for.
Have fun and be safe.
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#28
How was the throttle connection made on the factory minibikes? Seems we're trying to work-around or re-create the original factory linkages but with mediocre success. Not knocking anyone's setup at all, just that they're not as original or as 'clean' as they could be.
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In that regard, does anyone have original documentation (photos, diagrams) that show how the factory minibike throttle cables were connected on the air-vane governor Briggs engines?


...I understand the throttle linkage on the mechanical-governor engines perfectly well, but the throttle hookup on air-vane governor engines are like rocket science.
 
#29
It was solid core wire with a little "z" bent into the end. It was basically a remote steady speed lawnmower throttle with no return spring.
Edit: not sure about minibikes, but tillers and edgers used the solid wire .
 
#31
The cable pulls on the little lever. Two springs pull on the lever to return the throttle to idle. one spring goes to a stationary point to pull the cable. The other spring goes to the air vane. A solid wire linkage goes from the air vane to the carburetor volume control. More RPM pushes more air at the vane, overcoming the spring and reducing the noise.
 
#33
My original set up had the wire with the little z at the end like most lawn tractor carbs. I started upgrading the throttle cable, etc and the new cable does not have the wire with the little z at the end. Its like the ones you see advertised with the braided wire with a cable stop at the end. That is why I am racking my brains. I would love to buy a throttle cable with the "z" wire and am still searching.
 
#34
PLEASE look at some of the solutions we are offering.
The ones with the little z are solid wire, not flexible cable. the solid wires are NOT compatible with a mini bike throttle. You will probably not find any useable solution. We have many folks here with a lot of experience. Most of us have been in your situation, and we are sharing our experiences and describing how we overcame the same issues you are experiencing.
That cable that was on it, had no return spring. It was a lawnmower, tiller, snow blower etc. When you wanted to slow the engine down, you PUSHED the throttle down. Someone would get hurt on a minibike with a setup like that. Please stop racking your brains and try one of these proven solutions.
Have fun and be safe. Dave
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#35
....Here is the setup that I used on my B&S (3 1/2hp)....
What closes the throttle when you release the grip? The springs there in your photo are typically the governor spring(s) that keep tension on the governor assembly (allows it to function) and does not really work as a throttle return spring. I mean it doesn't look to be a strong enough spring for that. Maybe I am wrong.

Basically what the OP needs here is a push pull mechanism with a stiff enough return spring.

Fig. 26, 29 and 32 deal with remote throttle controls, like mounted on the handle of a garden tiller or edger and where the friction of the throttle lever kept the engine at the desired speed. Is the top spring in Fig. 31 a return spring? Looks like there is a bracket there just to anchor the spring...

40286CB7-ADCB-443A-A607-30CAD1767FFB.jpeg
 
#36
What closes the throttle when you release the grip? The springs there in your photo are typically the governor spring(s) that keep tension on the governor assembly (allows it to function) and does not really work as a throttle return spring. I mean it doesn't look to be a strong enough spring for that. Maybe I am wrong.

Basically what the OP needs here is a push pull mechanism with a stiff enough return spring.

Fig. 26, 29 and 32 deal with remote throttle controls, like mounted on the handle of a garden tiller or edger and where the friction of the throttle lever kept the engine at the desired speed. Is the top spring in Fig. 31 a return spring? Looks like there is a bracket there just to anchor the spring...

View attachment 307950
I purchased a new throttle/cable and it has a spring to close the throttle when released.
 
#37
PLEASE look at some of the solutions we are offering.
The ones with the little z are solid wire, not flexible cable. the solid wires are NOT compatible with a mini bike throttle. You will probably not find any useable solution. We have many folks here with a lot of experience. Most of us have been in your situation, and we are sharing our experiences and describing how we overcame the same issues you are experiencing.
That cable that was on it, had no return spring. It was a lawnmower, tiller, snow blower etc. When you wanted to slow the engine down, you PUSHED the throttle down. Someone would get hurt on a minibike with a setup like that. Please stop racking your brains and try one of these proven solutions.
Have fun and be safe. Dave
SparkWizard, I appreciate all of the tips on this thread. I know you guys have a lot of experience doing these things. Please dont think because I am asking about other solutions I do not appreciate the ones that the guys have suggested. I just know from the engineering world that it is good to ask questions about maybe different ways to approach things. You guys are great and I appreciate all of the advice.
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#38
What closes the throttle when you release the grip?
if you look closely at my first pic in post #7, you’ll just barely see the throttle return spring I added on the back side of the throttle plate arm (this set-up doesn’t incorporate the vane governor). It’s one place to put it anyway…
 
#39
Keep in mind that adding a throttle return spring (weather push or pull) will change the governor speed/function. That's why in my case I added a very fine spring as seen in the post #21 photo to minimize any change to the governor's control.
No matter what setup and spring that you use, test repeatedly w/o the engine running to check that the throttle closes all the way when the twist grip is released. Next, before starting the engine, put the front tire against a solid wall before starting the engine and test that your throttle control system works properly. Next, ride the mini bike yourself before you let the grandkids ride to confirm that it is safe.
Also, if the grandkids are first timers, make sure that you go over brake operation and gentle throttle application so that they don't wheelie the bike or worse........
 
#40
Scroll up. Look at pic 31 in post 35. Big spring is throttle return. Small spring is air vane.
Throttle return spring has zero effect on governed speed. Cable feeds through the oval hole on the lever and a cable clamp is secured to the end of the cable. That is the correct way to do it.
 
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