Oops, I did it again...Brought home another DB30S (New Project)

[Daniel Coop]

Well, here I go again. Found this Doodlebug discarded. That's right...It was free 99!

It had been crashed a little bit (front fender and right side handlebar) and it's puny 3HP motor is seized up and missing it's recoil starter. I was happy to put it next to my first finished full custom for some photos and comparison. Never being a fan of the stock DB bars and seeing as how they were bent I decided to swap them out with the brand new take offs from my daughter's Build-Off Motovox MBX10.

Not wanting the same dorky Motovox look I had eliminated from my daughter's Build-Off Motovox, I decided to use some higher black risers and my Schwinn Sting Ray ape hangers off another project that I was thinking about upgrading anyway.

So my original plan for this was a quick flip, but now I'm really starting to like this one and plan on building a complete simple cruiser using only parts, I already have. I'll probably have to buy a decent clutch and an exhaust, but this one will be on the cheap. Make my decision from there... Who knows, maybe this one will be for my wife finally. I'd prefer her on a DB or Motovox rather than an old school, simply because you can make them stop well.

I've got some new rubber, I have been waiting to use on one of these. I'm also considering using my older Lifan built Grayhound clone with a lighting coil. Be cool to have a lighted cruiser for some night time shenanigans.

 

[Daniel Coop]

Stripped of all it's unwanteds, degreased and power washed, it cleaned up real nice. It's in great shape and a perfect candidate for a budget hot rodded mini bike. No welding or repair required outside of a slightly bent foot peg, which I am pretty sure I have another good one somewhere.

 

[Raskin]

Nice score.:thumbsup: they so easy to work on.... you can bend those fork fender mounts down put a sheetmetal strap and use db30 fender for a low cruiser look .:smile:

 

[Chain Linkin]

haha that's the addiction everyone gets warned about in their first post :laugh: Can't go wrong with free!

 

[Daniel Coop]

Nice score.:thumbsup: they so easy to work on.... you can bend those fork fender mounts down put a sheetmetal strap and use db30 fender for a low cruiser look .:smile:

That is exactly my plan, except I'm going with chrome fenders... I was fixing to cut them off and had that same idea.

 

[Daniel Coop]

Did some swapping around today from my Serengeti Badger to my DB.

The knobbys on the DB still have some life in them but the Badger had the one new fat grooved slick mounted on the front and an original bald knobby on the rear (how I picked it up). So instead of dismounting and mounting 4 tires on wheels, I thought it'd be easier to put the wheels and tires from the DB on the Badger and then just had to swap front tire to rear wheel and mount the smaller grooved slick on the front wheel

Was shooting for a "hot rod" look with a fatty rear and skinny front. While removing the Badger's sprocket and rotor, I noticed that it has a 75t rear sprocket instead of a 70 like on the DB. Wanting way less teeth on the DB anyway, I ditched the 75t sprocket and put the 70t on the Badger. I will order another sprocket adapter and split sprocket for the DB.

 

[Raskin]

I was thinking of ribbed tires the other day..is a good street alternative.. hear they wear well,unclear of traction limitations..other than maybe heading home if starts to rain might become sketchy..dunno?

 

[Daniel Coop]

Trying a new color combo on this DB and experimenting with some new paint. Going black and Purple on this one, with my wife in mind. Hopefully someday she'll feel good enough to ride it. My wife is epileptic, disabled and lost her driving privileges due to her disability. Purple is the color adopted by the Epilepsy Awareness Foundation.
I plan on sneaking some purple ribbon accents in tastefully somehow.
This bike will be built at nearly no cost out of my spare parts, but I don't plan on cutting corners. This bike will have special meaning to me and will still be capable of laying the smack down on any would-be haters...lol

Just gotta clean up the little bit of overspray off the tires, that managed to soak through the newspaper with 10+ coats of candy purple...

 

[t555trailblazer]

Thumbs up!!!

 

[Daniel Coop]

Trying to stick to the "budget" theme on this build, I decided to try to build this old 4 bolt Grayhound (Lifan) clone I've had lying around for months... Picked it up for $25 being told it just needed the carb cleaned out.

Gas tank was rusty inside, fuel system was all gummed up and the oil looked like black metal flake paint coming out. Losing confidence this was a runner, I decided to tear it down.

Coil wire dry rotted, boot broken, output shaft and crank rusty, cylinder walls and piston rusty.

Sidecover damaged...not looking good. After pricing parts and due to the overall condition of the block, I decided to send out the head and a good used Ru-xing carb to Dan at Childish Concepts Racing for milling porting and boring, and ordered a new short block from NR Racing.

If you're not familiar, check them out. I got this all new short block with optional flat top piston and CL2 cam for $135.

Sowed up like this, with head bolts and a new standard .009 metal clone head gasket.

Time to figure out how much to tell Dan to mill off that head he's already got. With a straight edge and feeler guages I measured .012 piston pop up (below deck). I will be using a .018 multi-layer steel head gasket to keep it sealed up so I am thinking a nice .055 mill on the head. It'll also be getting new valves.

Dyno Cams PVL aluminum flywheel installed on 4°
flywheel advance key

with new coil installed

 

[Daniel Coop]

I noticed this block doesn't even have an oil level sensor provision, the governor hole is blank and it's stamped BOX STOCK PROJECT on the block. This one was never intended for utility use.

 

[Daniel Coop]

Xmas in June... Got my package from Dan at Childish Concepts Racing. New larger valve head with stock configuration valves (25 and 27mm valves) and 22lb springs. Ported and milled .055. A new lower shroud (that I seemed​ to be missing). Champion roller rockers and a Champion valve cover. A rebuilt, jetted and bored out Ru-xing carburetor. The crank is a brand new shaved (clearanced) 212 Hemi Predator crank to replace an undersized one I destroyed in a different motor. He also milled my stock head I had sent him just so I didn't send it for nothing.

.018 MLS head gasket installed, head torqued to 18.5' lbs. Champion roller rockers installed over stock clone guide plate with new stock clone pushrods. Valve lash set at .0025

Exhaust and carb studs installed. Gaskets port matched and big bore carburetor installed along with an NR Racing velocity stack filter adapter and an NGK BPR6ES racing plug.

 

[Davis]

Do they make a special ngk bpr6es racing plug or is it just that a standard clone plug?

 

[Daniel Coop]

No... I'd say it's the "standard clone" plug, found at any auto parts store for around $3. Although, I have never personally pulled one out of a factory GX200, clone or Predator, unless it came from someone who knew what time it was already... Pulled a Denso out of the GX200, (also a good plug) Torch Power and a couple of Bosch plugs from Predators. I can't recall what I took out of my Grayhound, but I know it wasn't a NGK. I've always considered NGK's a great performing plug for virtually ANY application. I have them in all my vehicles. I'm not even sure why I called it a racing plug, although they are used in racing. In my opinion, a superior plug to the AR3910X Autolite Racing plugs.

 

[FOMOGO]

I've always considered NGK's a great performing plug for virtually ANY application. In my opinion, a superior plug to the AR3910X Autolite Racing plugs.

Just being curious as to why you say that Daniel. I agree that the NGK is a very good plug but what makes it better than the AR3910X???

I have used NGK's in my 4 wheelers for years and never had a complaint. I also have used Autolite plugs in my cars for all my life. From stock daily drivers to high compression full on race engines. Again, never a complaint.

What I have not done is used either one in one of these little engines. I did pick up an AR3910X for the Predator I am going to build...

I have had great results from both brands so I am just curious to hear what your experience has been with the Autolite plug?

Thanks,

Doug

 

[minibikin']

Just being curious as to why you say that Daniel. I agree that the NGK is a very good plug but what makes it better than the AR3910X???

I have used NGK's in my 4 wheelers for years and never had a complaint. I also have used Autolite plugs in my cars for all my life. From stock daily drivers to high compression full on race engines. Again, never a complaint.

What I have not done is used either one in one of these little engines. I did pick up an AR3910X for the Predator I am going to build...

I have had great results from both brands so I am just curious to hear what your experience has been with the Autolite plug?

Thanks,

Doug

Doug,
I've been telling people this for years. The 3910 is difficult to get a good read/color from and there is no gap adjustment. The only gain you can really see from it would be the ever so minute compression increase from its longer depth there for reducing the combustion chamber cc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Daniel Coop]

Doug,
I've been telling people this for years. The 3910 is difficult to get a good read/color from and there is no gap adjustment. The only gain you can really see from it would be the ever so minute compression increase from its longer depth there for reducing the combustion chamber cc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Couldn't have said it any better... Not to mention, it just feels wrong sticking an Autolite into a Japanese (Asian, lol) engine. My kart racing buddy also says that for their application, the 3910 seems to foul out after a couple of hard laps.

 

[OND]

Karter's started using these 3910X plugs back when the Clone engines were introduced to the racing world as a cheap engine to run.
These plugs were mostly used to take up space in the combustion chamber as there was a tech on combustion chamber area , and yes you had to change the plug 's quit often.

 

[FOMOGO]

Doug,
I've been telling people this for years. The 3910 is difficult to get a good read/color from and there is no gap adjustment. The only gain you can really see from it would be the ever so minute compression increase from its longer depth there for reducing the combustion chamber cc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you sir. It makes perfect sense that it would be hard to read after looking at the difference in design. I knew there was a reason of some kind, good or bad, there was reason.

Couldn't have said it any better... Not to mention, it just feels wrong sticking an Autolite into a Japanese (Asian, lol) engine. My kart racing buddy also says that for their application, the 3910 seems to foul out after a couple of hard laps.

Thanks Daniel. I know now.

Karter's started using these 3910X plugs back when the Clone engines were introduced to the racing world as a cheap engine to run.
These plugs were mostly used to take up space in the combustion chamber as there was a tech on combustion chamber area , and yes you had to change the plug 's quit often.

Thanks Eric. This makes sense as well. It would kick the compression a little.


Thanks guys!!!! I appreciate the feed back. Again I enjoy this great community for this very reason!

Doug

 

[Daniel Coop]

Happy 4th everyone, with a rare extra day off I assembled a whole different engine, and am a little torn on which one to use for this project and was hoping ya'll might help me make a decision...? In a previous pic and entry in this thread I showed a new Hemi Predator crank that I had purchased to replace the one I had ruined. This time around I went ahead and bought the billet rod and flywheel from ARC racing. Not having a ring compressor, I opted to sneak the rod out and new back in through the bottom.

this is the .020 longer ARC billet rod. I had already verified proper oil clearance with green plasti-gauge before assembling.

crank and rod bolts lubed with 30w and installed.
Rod bolts torqued to 170 inch pounds.
Since I now had the billet rod and flywheel,
I decided to use the CL3 cam from my blown Grayhound clone.

Aftter installing the sidecover and and flywheel, I set coil gapping around .038-.039 and valve lash at .002 on the previously installed 18lb Hemi springs from NR, before installing the painted valve cover and tin work to match the PURPLE wheels I previously did for it.

So do I use this, with it's .020 longer ARC rod, flywheel, CL3 cam, 18lb Hemi springs, re-jetted, but otherwise stock Ru-xing carb, or the box stock motor with high compression, large valve head and BSP3 cam, 22lb springs, Champion rockers, big bore carb, PVL flywheel, but STOCK rod? Decisions, decisions...