Questions about notching tubing

M

MKW

Active Member
#1
#1
I'm trying to notch some 1" and some 7/8" tubing for my minibike build and I'm having some problems. The hole saw wants to grab and bind. I'm doing this on a drill press with the tubing in a table vise. Is there a hole saw with smaller hacksaw- like teeth that will work better? Should I be running the drill on a high speed or a lower speed. Right now, I think it's on the lowest speed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mike
 
M

MKW

Active Member
#4
#4
Yeah, I'm using a bi-metal hole saw. I've seen those notching tools, but I didn't figure that I needed one since I'm not trying to notch at any big angles.
 
bikebudy

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#5
#5
To be honest I don't own one, and have never used a saw to notch.

I cut the angle and then cup it out with a hand grinder, cave man style.


To my understanding the biggest problem with notching is holding the part and cutter as solid as possable, or you will end up with binding.
 
minibikin'

minibikin'

Sho-nuff
#6
#6
bikebudy said:
To be honest I don't own one, and have never used a saw to notch.



I cut the angle and then cup it out with a hand grinder, cave man style.





To my understanding the biggest problem with notching is holding the part and cutter as solid as possable, or you will end up with binding.
Click to expand...

Correct. If a bench vise is being used as an anchor, you still need to anchor it to the drill press table.
As said, on such small tubing, you can often miter cut and then use a scrap piece and a sharpie to draw the contour. Hand grinder from there.
 
M

MKW

Active Member
#10
#10
I did get 2 notches cut, but it is a violent process. I do have the vise bolted down. I'm running the drill at 220. I wonder if I go to 300 rpms it will cut smoother. Anybody?
 
paul_probus

paul_probus

Member
#13
#13
My dad fab'd one for a friend of his at work, after a couple of years, the guy didn't want it anymore, gave it back to my dad. I used it to fishmouth some tubing and worked well, but I used it horizontally in my dad's bench vise with a heavy duty 1/2" drill ( I think they call it "T" style). My dad copied a notcher similar to that shown earlier, but the angle on back was heavy duty to stand up to using it horizontally. I don't believe the saw caught using it that way, maybe because there was no gravity assistance, although I would not think using it in a drill press it would be an issue because of the return spring.

Unfortunately, the notcher was given away or trashed when he moved, I think. It was pretty stoutly built, so thats a shame.

Paul
 
Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#16
#16
One of the round track chassis fabricators I worked around showed me a method similar to KKK's bandsaw process: LedHead used a bi-metal blade in a reciprocating saw (Milwaukee Sawzall). Works like a champ on mild steel tubing, and notches can be cut on a tube already welded into a chassis, or for repairs.

I am going to upgrade to doing new tubes with the bandsaw, thanks Gerald!
 
TANKSAREUS

TANKSAREUS

#17
#17
I cut at between 350 and 500 - feed the cutter very slowly. It normally has a tendancy to bite during the middle of the cut when you've got wall on either side.

I also use a little motor oil to help cool and lube

Good Luck:thumbsup:
 
M

MKW

Active Member
#19
#19
I'm gonna turn the speed up a little and see how that goes.
That bandsaw method looks WAY easier, but I don't have a bandsaw. I may try it with my reciprocating saw.

Mike
 
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