So I rebuilt the 5hp Briggs this week. Now I can't get any gas to fire. I wonder what now?:shrug: I did not rebuild the carb, but did give it a good blow thru with the air hose, and replaced the carb to tank gasket. I pulled the plug after many many attempts to start it. There wasn't a drop of fuel on the thing.:doah:
mount the engine sturdy,then put your hand over the intake of the carb.try to start.
see if your hand gets wet,or sucked in.
should do both,if not fire or start.
if its not wet,check the fuel bowl under the short tube may not have gas in it. see danc9's post above.
if it doesn't get sucked in,your valves may not be clearanced correct.
did you check for spark? clean the flywheel?coil?
see if your hand gets wet,or sucked in.
should do both,if not fire or start.
if its not wet,check the fuel bowl under the short tube may not have gas in it. see danc9's post above.
if it doesn't get sucked in,your valves may not be clearanced correct.
did you check for spark? clean the flywheel?coil?
I finally got it running. For some reason it didn't want to take to a prime? Does anyone have a timing diagram? I think mine might be 1 tooth off. I did the hand over carb trick and it was pushing it more than pulling, and has not enough power to pull me around. I swear I lined everything back up the way it was. Guess I'll pull the side cover and check it out. It seems to early. Yes, I did change the vales and lap them. I am a car guy, so I know all the tricks of rebuilding, however, I have never done a small engine before.
you need lash...more than likely the valve is not closing... I run mine at .006 some guys go tighter but I like that spec for a happy medium..
on your crank, start with the tooth inline with the casting line on the side of the journal and count 12 teeth to the right (clockwise).... that should be your dot for the cam to line up with...
on your crank, start with the tooth inline with the casting line on the side of the journal and count 12 teeth to the right (clockwise).... that should be your dot for the cam to line up with...
ok, now see I did it differently because I seen no dot on the crank. I had the camshaft dot due south, and the crankshaft cast line, was horizontal to the camshaft centerline. Probably sounds crazy, but that's how it was lined up before teardown. But now I'm thinking maybe it is the valves. How is lash adjustment achieved on these?I hope I don't have to pull them out again, because that is a pain in the rear without the right tool. Of course this time would probably be easier:hammer:
get ready for a pain in the rear, the valves have to come out...
You will take the springs out, put the valves back in the block and turn the engine over until the intake valve is completely open, just as it starts to close rotate the engine 360 degrees and useing feeler guage slide it between the valve and lifter and see if you have any lash and if so what it is... minimal to No lash you will have to file a little at a time off the tip of the valve while checking it again and again with feeler guages until you get .006 clearance... same procedure on the exhaust..
any questions pm me and I'll give ya my cell ###
look at the teeth on the crank gear, there should be a line on the tooth you line up... it may be real faint but it should be there...or they have the gear on backwards if it's a non-fixed type gear..
You will take the springs out, put the valves back in the block and turn the engine over until the intake valve is completely open, just as it starts to close rotate the engine 360 degrees and useing feeler guage slide it between the valve and lifter and see if you have any lash and if so what it is... minimal to No lash you will have to file a little at a time off the tip of the valve while checking it again and again with feeler guages until you get .006 clearance... same procedure on the exhaust..
any questions pm me and I'll give ya my cell ###
look at the teeth on the crank gear, there should be a line on the tooth you line up... it may be real faint but it should be there...or they have the gear on backwards if it's a non-fixed type gear..
ok file the valves, this is achieved differently than doing a car engine. I honestly had no clue, which is why I asked. I am leaving for Virginia for a couple weeks, so I won't be able to get to this until then. I figured stock valves out, new stock replacements in :doah:
And the crank gear is fixed. I'll have a good look at it again. Thanks!
And the crank gear is fixed. I'll have a good look at it again. Thanks!
ut:
First thing you're gonna want to do with the Pulsejet is smash it with a hammer. :laugh:
Just for future reference.. When pulling the valves, use like 2 or 3 ... 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch open end wrenches.. I roll it until the valve opens, then slide the wrenches in, roll the engine back.. The keeper will land on the wrenches and take pressure off the valve stem.. :thumbsup:
Just for future reference.. When pulling the valves, use like 2 or 3 ... 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch open end wrenches.. I roll it until the valve opens, then slide the wrenches in, roll the engine back.. The keeper will land on the wrenches and take pressure off the valve stem.. :thumbsup: