So I got my kit today and everything looded great. I matched everything up just to make sure and it looked good. I put it together and I had 2 O rings left, no big deal I always have left over parts on my carb rebuilds. I put the carb on and it started right up, but when I go to give it throttle it cut off and dies. I did the standard 1 1/2 turns on both screws. Then I tryed adjusting each one to see what would work. I just got frustrated and decided it would be best to take another crack at it tomorrow. Then all of the sudden I noticed the gas was pouring out of the bottom of the carb, the needle valve came unscrewed and fell out. So I am guessing one of those O rings goes on the needle valve. So knowing all this is this why it would cut out when I gave it throttle. I am going to get this thing tuned up if it kills me!
You should have a little usually white colored o-ring, that is the seat for the float needle. It goes in a particular way, do a search here for a procedure. Before adjusting carb, make sure you have a correct, new spark plug and good, adjusted points if you have them. I started with both my needles 1 turn out and really didn't have to mess with the idle needle afterwards. You also need to make sure the float height is set properly, its in the maintenance manual and tecumseh makes a special tool for setting height and it also includes the tool to replace the float seat. Good luck! :blink:
Wow, those are some good tips. I will have to start searching to see what I can find on all those points. I don't think I have adjustable points, it is a 5hp Tecumseh so how would you tell? I put the little white O ring in the needle seat the way the old one came out so I think I got that. I kept the same float so that should not need adjusted too much. I will put those two O rings on and see if that makes a differance, I think they go on the main needle but I am not sure. Something has to stop it from vibrating out and I think those are the key. Thanks for the tips and I will let you know how I make out.
I got it. I had the idle adjustments out too far and it was flooding it out. I went one turn and that seemed to work well. As soon as I got that done my throttle cable return broke so now I have to fix that. If it isn't one thing its another. Oh well, I guess I play with these things because I like to tinker. Thanks for the advice.
Here is a PDF file on Tecumsehs. It shows you where every part of the carb goes this will help you. http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
Yes one of the O-rings seals off the main screw against the brass jet.. They are usually more of a flat shape... If ya don't have that it will leak all the time.. It sounds to me like possibly you are too rich on the high speed... I ALWAYS make carburetor adjustments by hand throttling the carb VIA the throttle plate RIGHT ON the carb... If you use the throttle on the handle bars stuff happens too fast and it will bounce around VIA governor and stuff so you can't acuratly tell whats happening..
SO I ALWAYS hand throttle RIGHT AT the carb.. that way I can change the speed ever so slowwwwwwly, and set the speed to ANY EXACT speed I want the engine to run....
BUT if you are too rich, you should be able to have the engine run at some speed (1/3 throttle or so) and find the area where the engine is picking up high speed fuel, and the engine will start stumbling and acting goofy because it's flooding out
Hold the throttle exactly to that point where it's running BUT acting stupid and trying to die... When you have it to THAT point, use your other hand to start slowly screwing the high speed screw inwards to lean the engine out... It should clean up and take right off and run good when ya find it's happy spot... Usually the high speed screw only needs maybe 1 full turn out or so...
to whoever it was, the Tecumseh adjustable point curve is in the points engines only. The mag system is under the flywheel.. You just loosen the two bolts and rotate it around to advance or retard your spark.. But I do not suggest messing with that stuff if you don't have much experience with little motors because if ya get it wrong it will be all kinds of goofy and not want to run... OR mark it with a marker so ya know exactly where it was before ya started messing with it..
SO I ALWAYS hand throttle RIGHT AT the carb.. that way I can change the speed ever so slowwwwwwly, and set the speed to ANY EXACT speed I want the engine to run....
BUT if you are too rich, you should be able to have the engine run at some speed (1/3 throttle or so) and find the area where the engine is picking up high speed fuel, and the engine will start stumbling and acting goofy because it's flooding out
Hold the throttle exactly to that point where it's running BUT acting stupid and trying to die... When you have it to THAT point, use your other hand to start slowly screwing the high speed screw inwards to lean the engine out... It should clean up and take right off and run good when ya find it's happy spot... Usually the high speed screw only needs maybe 1 full turn out or so...
to whoever it was, the Tecumseh adjustable point curve is in the points engines only. The mag system is under the flywheel.. You just loosen the two bolts and rotate it around to advance or retard your spark.. But I do not suggest messing with that stuff if you don't have much experience with little motors because if ya get it wrong it will be all kinds of goofy and not want to run... OR mark it with a marker so ya know exactly where it was before ya started messing with it..
i bolted the carb on a few weeks ago to see if it would fit, it did but the tec intake was tilted a lil bit so i figured i would make a new intake with some stainless that i have. i just need to get some SS wire for my welder. and then figure a new way to hook the throttle up. i have 3 3hp tec carbs, 2 adjustable and 1 primer ball carb, out of the 3 carbs the primer carb is the only 1 that i have used, what carb would you recomend to use on the B&S?
the problem is trying to figure out the tec carbs. 1 little thing could be off and not know it and you can pull till you have blisters all over your hand. i dont see how it could be any easyier than a B&S carb, 1 screw to adjust, no float, no over flowing carb bowls, just pull and start. now im starting to get :censure::cursing: thinking about how :censure::cursing: i used to get messing with that damn tec carb. someone teach me:sadcrying4:
Well A Tecumseh and a Briggs are just like a Ford and a Chevy. Some people will fight to there death arguing that there whatever is better than yours. I've never owned anything just because there easier to work on or fix. Back when I was dabbling in bigger bikes dirt or street. Never bought one because it was easy to work on or parts were easy to come buy. To me if its not a challenge its not worth messing with. And most of the time people follow in there dads of friends foot steps just because that was the motors/cars and so on they grew up knowing. My dad loves airplanes and worked for Boeing his whole life. I didn't follow in his footsteps. But wish i would have. But no i was the black sheep of my family. I prefer a Tecumseh over a Briggs but it don't mean i don't own any Briggs. I probably have 10 or 12 Briggs But myself have always had better luck with Tec engines.:smile:
It did take some messing around to figure out the tec carb but I got it and it is running like a top. Thanks to all of the help from the members I was able to get it that is. I just would mess with it and then take a day off and then go right back into it. Glad I did it though. Good luck with your carb.
theres about 1mm diff in length, i know its not much but wasnt sure if it would cause problems. i just got done adjusting the float, it was way off so i pulled out a 11/64 drill bit and set it to that. it took a few times, too much, not enough, too much then i got it. now i just need to get some mig wire, make a intake and try it on my B&S. "hurry up and pay me, i need $$$"