Rupp Bearing Removal

j57little

j57little

Active Member
#1
#1
I've seen several posts about how difficult it is to remove Rupp wheel bearings (1971 Rupp Roadster 2, 12-inch wheels). Several people say to bang them out from the opposite side, but there is virtually no lip to bang on. Secondly, there appears to be a cup/retainer in front of the bearing that appears to be press-fitted. So there are two questions:

1) This cup/retainer in front of the bearings - any guidance on how to remove the retainer?
2) Aside from the banging out from the opposite side, is there another method for removing the bearings? I saw where one guy used a dent puller, but not sure about that.

Thank you!
Jack
 
buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
Hey Jack.
Just did this myself.
Are you talking like it has asl snap ring bearing?
And yes, beat it out from the opposite side is what I did.
Little tiny lip, just enough to get a area to tap on.
After I cropped the snap ring off.
Came right out with a little tap, tap, tap. As it loosens more around the edge.
Sprayed with PB blaster prior to tap tap, tapping..
 
j57little

j57little

Active Member
#3
#3
What you're saying makes sense, but the bearings on my wheels appear to be held in place by a metal cup. It's right there in front of the bearing. The bearings do not have a snap ring - just this metal cup holding them from the front. If I could get those off it would be much easier to tap them out from the back.
 
tmack1

tmack1

Member
#6
#6
I took my wheels down to the local Honda/Yamaha dealer, and they pulled them. It was years ago, but think I paid around $20.

There is a tool (scissor hook thingy) that inserts in the hole and pulls them out.
 
j57little

j57little

Active Member
#7
#7
Hub-1.jpg

You can see in this photo the cup/retainer that is fitted in front of the bearing. I'm sure I can get them out, but I'd rather not damage the hub in the process.

Thanks!
 
Bob Gaudette

Bob Gaudette

Active Member
#8
#8
I have had little to no luck banging out the bearings from the opposite side of the hub. The bearing cup is easily damaged that way. The best bet is to buy a bearing removal set (pretty inexpensive) works like a dent puller and makes a ridiculously hard job easy. I have taken apart 4 sets of wheels this way with no damage. Once the bearing is pulled you can tap out the cup easily with a deep wall socket .
 
Last edited:
j57little

j57little

Active Member
#9
#9
That cup thing I was pointing to is actually the lip of the bearing cup. The bearing sits inside this cup. Now I feel really stupid. It's just part of the hub. That was not clear because of all the corrosion and debris. I was able to bang out the bearings on the front hub, but on the rear the angle is too steep and there's too little lip to catch. I'll have to get a bearing removal set!
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#10
#10
Jack, I've advocated the use of a blind hole puller here a few times. I have one and I use it often, and not just for "blind" holes. You can tension the insert tight enough to avoid damaging the race or lip. This might be what Bob is referring to. You can rent them at Autozone.

Or your kid can rent them, forget to return it, then move away, and you get to keep it. ;) Slide hammer principle. A good tool to have.
 
R

ruppking

Active Member
#12
#12
For 1971-75 Rupp wheels.
You need a punch to tap the inner bearing spacer to side
enough to gain access to the edge of the opposite wheel bearing.
This may take a bit of force and is the hardest part
in this procedure.
Drive the wheel bearing from the inside out of the wheel.
The cup will stay in the wheel.
No need to remove the cup.
When installing the new bearings, make sure
the first one is completely seated in the cup.
Install the spacer and second wheel bearing
and make sure it is in far enough to seat against that spacer.
 
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