I am looking to put a stage 2 kit on my predator motor. I have a header already. Purchasing a Billet flywheel next time I'm at motor city minis. What stage 2 kit would you guys suggest? There are so many carb options available and don't know witch way to go. I do not plan on going past the stage 2 kit on this motor. any imput would be awesome.
I like Ruxing because they are cheep and easy to tune. I have the stock
w/ .035 main jet recommended for a warm sunny days (.036 = 9mm),
a 140 e-tube and I threw in a .022 pilot jet too. I've had no problems w/ this set-up.
Next time I'll try the race ready .615 bore, costs a lot more than the stock ruxing...
or the .625 bore (for gasoline) w/o choke butterfly (removed/plugged)
Carbs and components for your Honda or Clone motor.
or
http://boxstockproject.com/cart/index.php?pg=1&l=product_list&c=5
if you're looking for that .022 pilot jet
http://boxstockproject.com/cart/index.php?l=product_detail&p=210
w/ .035 main jet recommended for a warm sunny days (.036 = 9mm),
a 140 e-tube and I threw in a .022 pilot jet too. I've had no problems w/ this set-up.
Next time I'll try the race ready .615 bore, costs a lot more than the stock ruxing...
or the .625 bore (for gasoline) w/o choke butterfly (removed/plugged)
Carbs and components for your Honda or Clone motor.
or
http://boxstockproject.com/cart/index.php?pg=1&l=product_list&c=5
if you're looking for that .022 pilot jet
http://boxstockproject.com/cart/index.php?l=product_detail&p=210
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Next time I'll try the race ready .615 bore, costs a lot more than the stock ruxing...
or the .625 bore (for gasoline) w/o choke butterfly (removed/plugged)
How do you start a cold engine with no choke? My motors that have performance cams in them already start kinda hard with using the choke. Wish those carbs had an enrichening circuit instead of the butterfly.
or the .625 bore (for gasoline) w/o choke butterfly (removed/plugged)
How do you start a cold engine with no choke? My motors that have performance cams in them already start kinda hard with using the choke. Wish those carbs had an enrichening circuit instead of the butterfly.
I am not sure what a stage 2 kit is, but I have two Huayi, and one newer Hemi predator style carb's for sale in the classified section. They were all brand new, I just set them up with the correct main and pilot jet size on the Predator I was dynoing. It was a stock predator, with a .880 "j" style header, a high flowing air filter, and I advanced the timing.
Use a different carb....
I bought a whole box old tech series 3 carbs for the price of a single modified clone carb.
Anyhow....
How do you start an engine with no choke?
A primer of course...
000 07871] - YouTube
I bought a whole box old tech series 3 carbs for the price of a single modified clone carb.
Anyhow....
How do you start an engine with no choke?
A primer of course...
000 07871] - YouTube
Take a walk over to the nearest Tecumseh dealer and ask how many of the series 3 carbs you can have for 30 dollars chum....
Listen:
You mix and you match...
You rework the venturi and drill extra holes in them or make the old ones bigger.
Soon you learn what works and what does not.
A wonderful learning experience on something no one wants...
Then you realize " Gosh.... This works so much better than I thought was possible. I could apply what I learned to other carbs " and just maybe you get it right and maybe a carb that really does all you want.
You may as well drill holes in something and learn....
Listen:
You mix and you match...
You rework the venturi and drill extra holes in them or make the old ones bigger.
Soon you learn what works and what does not.
A wonderful learning experience on something no one wants...
Then you realize " Gosh.... This works so much better than I thought was possible. I could apply what I learned to other carbs " and just maybe you get it right and maybe a carb that really does all you want.
You may as well drill holes in something and learn....
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Chum !! I'm not your "chum", Newoldstock. Really, mix and match, drill a few extra holes..a wonderful experience...The Man Wants A Carb That Works.
Don't think for a split second that you're going to bully me out of a solid piece of advise. Looks to me like someone doesn't play well with others....
That's a damn good carb (Ruxing) and a great price ($18). Mopedman said he's trying to learn the basics, so why send him into carb hell trying to find jets that work.
Just set him up with a good carb that's not too expensive, LIKE HE ASKED, and he'll look at the jets, etc. later.
BTW, I spent days/weeks researching this stuff before I started my first build.
Top speed here is 53.5mph, w/14t max torque & 60t rear sprocket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DdnEPrsRPc
Don't think for a split second that you're going to bully me out of a solid piece of advise. Looks to me like someone doesn't play well with others....
That's a damn good carb (Ruxing) and a great price ($18). Mopedman said he's trying to learn the basics, so why send him into carb hell trying to find jets that work.
Just set him up with a good carb that's not too expensive, LIKE HE ASKED, and he'll look at the jets, etc. later.
BTW, I spent days/weeks researching this stuff before I started my first build.
Top speed here is 53.5mph, w/14t max torque & 60t rear sprocket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DdnEPrsRPc
Have to agree here. A carb that works is far better to someone who wants just that. NOS, I admire your perseverance through trying and modifying the Tec carbs. Hell of a job. However, I don't think the OP wants to go through that now. Maybe once he has a carb that works and can compare he will want to experiment.
I'm just diving into my first modded GX200 build.(I prefer flat heads). Gonna try the stock appearing carb from Dover.
I'm just diving into my first modded GX200 build.(I prefer flat heads). Gonna try the stock appearing carb from Dover.
OK your right....
Its hard to modify something when you do not have an engine running right in the first place.
Too many variables.
HL 166B.
Tunes out no modifications right out of the box.
But again the engine needs to be clear of troubles before you start messing around with a carb.
It will work on a stock engine without any troubles a mild build will be much the same.
Too me most of the fun is in the engine and making it work.
Some people do not share that view.
I looked at your videos and that is a very nice bike you built.
The days and weeks of planning clearly show in the build quality.
I have been trying to find an old picture from 09 when I used the 166B.
Best I have to offer is this old Mock up picture.
Its hard to modify something when you do not have an engine running right in the first place.
Too many variables.
HL 166B.
Tunes out no modifications right out of the box.
But again the engine needs to be clear of troubles before you start messing around with a carb.
It will work on a stock engine without any troubles a mild build will be much the same.
Too me most of the fun is in the engine and making it work.
Some people do not share that view.
I looked at your videos and that is a very nice bike you built.
The days and weeks of planning clearly show in the build quality.
I have been trying to find an old picture from 09 when I used the 166B.
Best I have to offer is this old Mock up picture.
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I too am not real sure what you mean by stage 2, different stores sell different kits and call it a "stage 2".
These "kits" usually include stuff you don't need and won't use. I'd make up my own version of stage 1 and stage 2.
If I were defining these stages I'd call "stage 1" just basic breathing, something like:
1) a high flow air filter w/adaptor,
2) a carb re-jet kit (main, pilot and e-tube)
3) an exhaust header
for a kart I would include:
4) a fuel pump w/ pulse fitting (which doesn't do a mini bike any good but
it's needed for a kart that has a gas tank lower than the carb where gravity won't flow gas).
5) and a top plate, to mount the pump and linkage for a kart, after the tank is removed.
Stage 2 would include stage 1, plus a little more muscle in the engine:
1) advise on a) removing the governor, b) selecting a billet flywheel and connecting rod
2) a cam, your choice of CL-1 improved, or MOD 2 (CL-1 will pass inspection if you're racing, Mod 2 will not)
3) 18lb or 26lb valve springs, w/intake valve cap
4) flywheel offset timing key (your choice 4,6,8 degree)
5) Autolite 3910 spark plug
So there's a few idea's you can work with,
as Newoldstock said:
"You mix and you match...You rework the engine...Soon you learn what works and what does not".
Add a flattop piston, high compression head, stainless steel valves, chrome-moly pushrods, ratio rockers, etc...
pretty soon you'll realize this is getting into some real money and then eventually....your wife will find out about it
:hang:
These "kits" usually include stuff you don't need and won't use. I'd make up my own version of stage 1 and stage 2.
If I were defining these stages I'd call "stage 1" just basic breathing, something like:
1) a high flow air filter w/adaptor,
2) a carb re-jet kit (main, pilot and e-tube)
3) an exhaust header
for a kart I would include:
4) a fuel pump w/ pulse fitting (which doesn't do a mini bike any good but
it's needed for a kart that has a gas tank lower than the carb where gravity won't flow gas).
5) and a top plate, to mount the pump and linkage for a kart, after the tank is removed.
Stage 2 would include stage 1, plus a little more muscle in the engine:
1) advise on a) removing the governor, b) selecting a billet flywheel and connecting rod
2) a cam, your choice of CL-1 improved, or MOD 2 (CL-1 will pass inspection if you're racing, Mod 2 will not)
3) 18lb or 26lb valve springs, w/intake valve cap
4) flywheel offset timing key (your choice 4,6,8 degree)
5) Autolite 3910 spark plug
So there's a few idea's you can work with,
as Newoldstock said:
"You mix and you match...You rework the engine...Soon you learn what works and what does not".
Add a flattop piston, high compression head, stainless steel valves, chrome-moly pushrods, ratio rockers, etc...
pretty soon you'll realize this is getting into some real money and then eventually....your wife will find out about it
:hang:
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Go with the Z4M piston.
There are some larger than normal valve heads floating around from China with 27 25 from the factory.
I know Lewis Stout at Stout racing has them.
I would be inclined to use that and have it milled .060.
AS built the heads are probably good enough for budget builds.
As for Cams.
Isky Momba or Jr.
Use the lightest springs possible like the 18.
26 deg of timing would be a good place to start ( might add more later if you desire ).
The head and a Momba cam would be a good combination you could add more carb too later.
The HL 166B has a 5/8 venturi on a 7/8 bore.
This makes it very similar in size to the stock but like I said its adjustable ( and easy to find used this is an old Chain saw carb with likely one sitting in a bin used near you ).
Down side is you need to make an intake for it.
The longer the header the better.
Around 850 is a Decent ID for starters.
There are some larger than normal valve heads floating around from China with 27 25 from the factory.
I know Lewis Stout at Stout racing has them.
I would be inclined to use that and have it milled .060.
AS built the heads are probably good enough for budget builds.
As for Cams.
Isky Momba or Jr.
Use the lightest springs possible like the 18.
26 deg of timing would be a good place to start ( might add more later if you desire ).
The head and a Momba cam would be a good combination you could add more carb too later.
The HL 166B has a 5/8 venturi on a 7/8 bore.
This makes it very similar in size to the stock but like I said its adjustable ( and easy to find used this is an old Chain saw carb with likely one sitting in a bin used near you ).
Down side is you need to make an intake for it.
The longer the header the better.
Around 850 is a Decent ID for starters.
Why not just get a basic ball hone and do your stock carb?
Try .615 and work your way up? Drill your idle jet and main jet...get all this from HF?
Then you can experiment all you want till you are tired of the stock carb!
Far as the stock carb I wouldn't go too far past .670 before you get into trouble.
Then you will have tools for your next project...simple and cheap...
Try .615 and work your way up? Drill your idle jet and main jet...get all this from HF?
Then you can experiment all you want till you are tired of the stock carb!
Far as the stock carb I wouldn't go too far past .670 before you get into trouble.
Then you will have tools for your next project...simple and cheap...