well now it wont start.

massacre

massacre

#41
#41
Rod is also discolored.
I’m not a predator guy, but now the question is-
is it cheaper/easier to buy a new predator, and a billet rod, and rebuild with with your billet flywheel?
Or try to get a new crank and billet rod, and rebuild with your billet flywheel?
I honestly have no idea.
If it were me I would get a new engine and start over.
I know it’s not the answer you want to hear.

Like was said there are many members here who have lots of experience with these engines who are willing to help.
 
Harquebus

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#51
#51
Go ahead and tear down the engine; remove the piston, connecting rod and crankshaft. Take pics of the bearing surfaces on the connecting rod, rod cap and crank journal. That's where you're going to see scoring or metal transfer from the con rod to the crank. It will appear scored, rough and streaked. Yeah, there's apparent heat discoloration there.

jayJams said:
on the subject of oil i use 10w 50 oil is that ok
Click to expand...
Uh, not exactly. You want something thinner and something that flows well. That could be (part of) your problem. A lot of the racing oils are 20 weight or maybe 10. :oops:
 
J

jayJams

Active Member
#52
#52
Harquebus said:
Go ahead and tear down the engine; remove the piston, connecting rod and crankshaft. Take pics of the bearing surfaces on the connecting rod, rod cap and crank journal. That's where you're going to see scoring or metal transfer from the con rod to the crank. It will appear scored, rough and streaked. Yeah, there's apparent heat discoloration there.



Uh, not exactly. You want something thinner and something that flows well. That could be (part of) your problem. A lot of the racing oils are 20 weight or maybe 10. :oops:
Click to expand...
yes I will tear down the engine tomorrow when i have more daylight,i really thought i was using the right oil I guess i was mistaken
 
Ministry Of Mud

Ministry Of Mud

Active Member
#54
#54
massacre said:
Rod is also discolored.
I’m not a predator guy, but now the question is-
is it cheaper/easier to buy a new predator, and a billet rod, and rebuild with with your billet flywheel?
Or try to get a new crank and billet rod, and rebuild with your billet flywheel?
I honestly have no idea.
If it were me I would get a new engine and start over.
I know it’s not the answer you want to hear.

Like was said there are many members here who have lots of experience with these engines who are willing to help.
Click to expand...
OK, you guys talk of a billet con rod, OK, my Coleman BT200x is got a stage 2 kit, torque converter, removed gov, billet flywheel.
Now I think putting one in may be a good idea, but which size fits with the stock piston?

Also, would putting in a billet con rod reduce engine vibrations?
I seem to get imbalance vibrations at lower RPM or on deceleration, which smooth out at higher RPM's.
 
massacre

massacre

#55
#55
Ministry Of Mud said:
OK, you guys talk of a billet con rod, OK, my Coleman BT200x is got a stage 2 kit, torque converter, removed gov, billet flywheel.
Now I think putting one in may be a good idea, but which size fits with the stock piston?

Also, would putting in a billet con rod reduce engine vibrations?
I seem to get imbalance vibrations at lower RPM or on deceleration, which smooth out at higher RPM's.
Click to expand...
I recommend ARC for billet connecting rods, sorry I don’t know which size will fit a predator but I’m sure someone will chime in with the correct answer.
Vibration could be many things, hard to diagnose over the internet
 
Harquebus

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#58
#58
jayJams said:
how hard is it to istall the rod i have watched alot of videos and im kinda scared that this will be biting off more than i can chew
Click to expand...
Too easy to do. The connection at the con rod and piston is just C clips, slide the wrist pin out, remove old rod, reassemble in reverse order with the new parts--some parts can be reused depending on their condition...

But the bottom of the con rod at the bearing cap/con rod cap is where you are apparently in dire need of a torque wrench. Does the current con rod have a locking plate with tabs that you bend up to lock the screws in place?

Also the piston, con rod, bearing cap, bearing shells all have to be oriented a certain way to fit, usually the manufacturers specifications. There should be witness marks on these parts to indicate which way they face. I'm just speaking in general terms here.



The above illustration is not 212 Predator or Tillotson parts--it's generic for informational purposes.
 
Last edited:
J

jayJams

Active Member
#59
#59
Harquebus said:
Too easy to do. The connection at the con rod and piston is just C clips, slide the wrist pin out, remove old rod, reassemble in reverse order with the new parts--some parts can be reused depending on their condition...

But the bottom of the con rod at the bearing cap/con rod cap is where you are apparently in dire need of a torque wrench. Does the current con rod have a locking plate with tabs that you bend up to lock the screws in place?

Also the piston, con rod, bearing cap, bearing shells all have to be oriented a certain way to fit, usually the manufacturers specifications. There should be witness marks on these parts to indicate which way they face. I'm just speaking in general terms here.



The above illustration is not a 212 Predator or Tillotson drawing--it's generic for informational purposes.
Click to expand...
umm i dont know i didnt see any when it was loosebut the new one im ordering does have them
 
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