Why Remove the governer?

[supernova]

Why simply remove the governer from a clone and leave it stock? Did the easy starting and reliability bother you? I can totally see doing it on a purpose built race engine with billet rod, flywheel, big cam, carb and pump etc. as these engines are generally started with an electric starter and once they are running they are fine, hell some are mild enough to pull start but have been meticulasly tuned for performance and reliability so I understand that! But simply removing the governer from a stock clone makes no sense! It renders them hard to start and keep running without skillful tuning on the carb, and some timing probably would help but still! I know I'm running this method into the ground but it is so stupid simple everyone should at least try it!

A smaller diameter stiffer spring, piggybacked like this allowing the engine to start and idle as intended, but limits or bypasses the governer by limiting the pullback if not eliminating it all toghether! It costs a buck or less and that particular setup allowed me to go a best of 42mph with the stop screw backed out on a Older DB with 66 tooth sprocket and a 12 tooth max torque clutch @ 4500 RPMS! Try it if ya got a stock governed unit and feel the difference, no surging at all and great performance!

 

[olajoe808]

Neat trick but why leave the governor intact on a stock motor proven reliable to 5500+ rpms if the goal is to achieve more speed.

 

[supernova]

Neat trick but why leave the governor intact on a stock motor proven reliable to 5500+ rpms if the goal is to achieve more speed.

I have achived enough speed for now and I have found a stock clone with the governer removed is hard to start and stay running, I even had the low oil sensor removed but still had problems and I hear lots of people say the same thing. Now with mods and a good fuel system I could see a reliable setup, in fact I have had a similar 5hp briggs that ran fine no gov. and highly modified! It aint for everyone just like governer removal is'nt for me, but to each his own. I think it is effecive, cheap, and simple which is what many DB owners are looking for! 42mph aint bad for a stock governed clone on a DB cheating or not I weigh 200#+ and got up to speed reasonably fast and might have gone a bit faster had I not run out of street, 45 max possibly as is was still climbing when shut down! And I know my sprocket makes for more top end I am flying IMO for a daily rider I am pleased! I've seen your monsters with pumps and carbs and know that you can build a good engine, so the spring thing is pointless for your deal!:thumbsup:

 

[845mx5]

If you removed the governor and its hard to starts, somethig is wrong. Maybe you need to get a new carb o simply tweek the one you have. There are MANY members that removed the governor and dont have starting issues. Also, your STOCK clone, governed, does 42 mph and you weigh 200 lbs? I weigh 130 and i have a built motor, degoverned and my gps says 40 at TOP TOP speed. Did you change your gearing?

 

[The Restore Kid]

Just hold the throttle open slightly when you start it.. :shrug: That is the only difference in an ungoverned engine.. The throttle is at dead idle if the governor is removed.. The governor holds the throttle open some when it's not running so it's easier to start.. Removing it shouldn't change the way it runs... Ya just have to remember to give her a little more air when starting it cold is all... :wink:

 

[DEUCE]

Do you have that extra spring hooked into the shroud or the other spring... I'm gonna try this..

 

[Oldschool]

Yes it works, its safe and easy. I used a second softer spring attached to the same points as the original.

4900 rpm with no worries. So why disconnect something you can make work for you?
YouTube - 100 9289
And yes I look like a redneck with the baseball cap and cigarette.....

 

[supernova]

If you removed the governor and its hard to starts, somethig is wrong. Maybe you need to get a new carb o simply tweek the one you have. There are MANY members that removed the governor and dont have starting issues. Also, your STOCK clone, governed, does 42 mph and you weigh 200 lbs? I weigh 130 and i have a built motor, degoverned and my gps says 40 at TOP TOP speed. Did you change your gearing?

I have a 66 tooth rear sprocket on the blue DB , and it runs as if the governer is removed. I had a good long run to achieve top speed as well, I have checked my speed paced and with a radar gun. I also have street tires, turf savers and with the knobbies on it ran 39. I put the spring on my yellow DB and ran the screw out and with a 70 tooth out back with the dirtbug tires it would only run 34mph! the friction created by those tires is crazy! The blue one with a 5.5briggs ohv no governer 66 tooth it ran 42 as well, a 70 tooth on it slowed it to 38. Basically the spring is bypassing the governer altogether, and with a smaller rear sprocket it is faster than a regular governed cloned DB with 70 tooth sprocket! I am turning probably as many RPMs as you are at top speed, I know mine will not go over 4800 period and yours is capable of more but are you reaching max RPM? And what sprocket do you run? Tires? You could go much faster I'm sure, I have reached my max under ideal conditions and am happy! It cost me very little to do so as well!:thumbsup:

 

[supernova]

Do you have that extra spring hooked into the shroud or the other spring... I'm gonna try this..

To the other spring, and bent and slightly stretched to stay in place and not give tension till it's needed!

 

[badtec]

Yes it works, its safe and easy. I used a second softer spring attached to the same points as the original.

4900 rpm with no worries. So why disconnect something you can make work for you?

I don't know how many rpm's that the governor internals can spin without coming apart, but if it ever does.....carnage.

 

[supernova]

I don't know how many rpm's that the governor internals can spin without coming apart, but if it ever does.....carnage.

So far 4900, and that's just all it's got to give restrained as it is! I cant ask anymore from it as I have gone as far out with the screw will go so I backed it down to 4500 for good measure and safety! If it goes I return it under warranty and go down the road, I know dishonest bla bla bla but I did not remove the governer or modify it! I just helped it be all it could be by adding something that should have been there all along! Two stock engines out of the box would'nt make more than 2900rpms without surging badly, adjusting by turning the screw made the surging stop but then 2600rpms max! Unacceptable IMO for an engine that wont make the advertised HP unless it can spin 3600, so I fixed the engines shortcomings!:thumbsup:

 

[tin solider3]

well i lost the black spring and it's almost impossible finding the exact spring for me. It was 1 of those moments "I swear i put it down right there!". Well does anyone know the full length of the spring and the length of the actual curly/springy part?

or even where i can find the exact 1.

THANKS

also supernova, how did you come up with this. Its a good idea. It took me a couple times to read it and understand it, but i gotta say its LEGIT...

 

[supernova]

I'll measure the one on mine tomorrow and let you know, another member here simply replaced the black one with a stiffer spring and is happy with it! I studied the way the governer worked and just worked to solve a problem.

 

[TT]

I own one 6.5 HP that still has the gov. It does start easier. It is more reliable. However, "We the People." "Want more Power" and less is best. The one thing that was not mentioed is the yellow wire controlling low oil, that must also go bye bye.

This is a performance enhanced Forum....lol :glare:

TT~ :smile:

 

[tin solider3]

I own one 6.5 HP that still has the gov. It does start easier. It is more reliable. However, "We the People." "Want more Power" and less is best. The one thing that was not mentioed is the yellow wire controlling low oil, that must also go bye bye.

This is a performance enhanced Forum....lol :glare:

TT~ :smile:

so all you have to do is cut the yellow wire?

 

[minibikedude]

If you take off your flywheel cover you will see the black wire that comes off the ignition coil. The black wire you want to hook your kill switch lead to and ground the other wire to the engine block if you have a two wire kill switch. The other wires are for the low oil cut off. Just remove that stuff.

 

[minibikedude]

I found a picture here that might help. I hope this picture could help show you what i meant.

 

[MiniBike Paul]

So if i understand this thread, you are being lazy (not removing the gov and low oil cutoff) and are settling for low rpm (4000) and low power, and not much performance, judging your results by the top speed you can hit (with no concern for acceleration or lack of) and finding comfort in the fact that if all else fails you can get HF to give you your (undeserved) money back!

The new America!

 

[supernova]

So if i understand this thread, you are being lazy (not removing the gov and low oil cutoff) and are settling for low rpm (4000) and low power, and not much performance, judging your results by the top speed you can hit (with no concern for acceleration or lack of) and finding comfort in the fact that if all else fails you can get HF to give you your (undeserved) money back!

The new America!

Well your facts are not in order, I am spinning 4900RPMs first off and i did disable the low oil sensor! That and 42mph is pretty fast for a DB IMO! And the acceleration is as good as a non governed stock 6.5, I have had two and the hard starts and lack of reliability was frustrating I did also disable the low oil sensor on them! And unless you have tried the spring trick you are in no position to comment on the performance under acceleration! If I am gonna spend big $ to modify an engine it will be a honda or an American built engine, the stock clones with my little spring trick work great for my purpose and are affordable! And as far as what I deserve or dont deserve, well that aint up to you is it? I am aware of your opinion on returning modded clones under warranty, and that you know people at HF HQ! I could not give less of a $h!t about either! Ask them how they feel about working for a company that sells mostly inferior chinese crap! Ask them if they know any of the millions of Americans who lost thier manufacturing jobs to china! A country that enjoys favored nation trade status and clearly does not "DESERVE" it!:hammer:

 

[supernova]

well i lost the black spring and it's almost impossible finding the exact spring for me. It was 1 of those moments "I swear i put it down right there!". Well does anyone know the full length of the spring and the length of the actual curly/springy part?

or even where i can find the exact 1.

THANKS

also supernova, how did you come up with this. Its a good idea. It took me a couple times to read it and understand it, but i gotta say its LEGIT...

The overall length is 4.5" the coil is 1" and starts 3" from the throttle plate connection, there is roughly 1/2" of straight wire after then it bends to attach to the arm. A spring of the same length and stiffer will give you what the black one did not, eliminating the need for an additional spring! And dont cut the yellow wire, simply open the wire capsule and unplug and tape it then put it back!