MTS-30 Build....questions

#21
More progress to report......the driven is off now.

I decided to go with the sprocket approach that WJustice, and BigRob has suggested, for now, and will work on setting up a torque converter over next winter.

You know, as much as I try, when I hit something that is beyond me mechanically, and I've tried all I know :shrug:, and I've stared at it long enough, and I have an impending time line, I reach a point where I take the problem to someone who has the mechanical knowledge, and power that I don't possess. :anon.sml:

I could have cut the jackshaft as suggested, but was concerned with my timeline, and limited experience, that taking that approach would put me further behind....so I took the trike to my trusted automobile mechanic.

The driven gave him a fit, as it's end had previously been slightly mushroomed. During the process of removing the driven, they managed to knock the c clip off the other end of the shaft with the brake puck, and the puck was almost off the shaft...but not moveable by hand. I told my mechanic that in this shape, it still left me with something I could not deal with, as I don't have the right tools to get that puck off. So my mechanic say's (and this is why I keep going back to him)...he say's....soon as you get the bearings and sprocket, bring it in on back up and I'll set it up for you !! Hey...at this point, I'm not proud....:laugh:

The more I think about it, that probably puts me closer to the classification of a 'gold chainer', than a 'shadetree mechanic'...:doah:...but so be it..:laugh:...I want my kids riding this thing at Windber week after next :thumbsup:
 
#22
I should have listened to Randy...and just cut the dang jackshaft off in the first place.....as the mechanic managed to nick the jackshaft up, to the point where the old bearing wont slide off easily. :doah:

I am doing my best to learn as I go thru this process, and need to ask these questions, so I don't make many more expensive mistakes.

At this point, it is making more sense to replace not only the bearings, but the jackshaft too. I'm going to replace the 40 pitch 'out' sprocket while I'm at it.

The original jackshaft is a 5/8" diameter, 10.5" overall length with snap rings. Similar to OldMiniBikes's bonanza mid peg 8.5" jackshaft at:
https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/replacement-bonanza-mid-peg-jackshaft.html?category_id=29

I need 10.5" overall length. I am not finding that original length anywhere :shrug:

My question as long as clearance is not an issue, can I use a longer keyed shaft with "collars", to accomplish the same task, that the exact length keyed shaft does with snap rings ?

Like this one in 12" - will this one work ? (I'll use all but the hangers as mine are built in to the frame and I'll be switching the out sprocket to 40/41 pitch):
https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/Jackshaft-Kit-for-35-Chain.html


Thank you all, for your help, and suggestions !!
 
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#23
I always buy the longer keyed jackshaft and cut off what I don't need. A couple of bearings and collars with a sprocket and away you go. Are you trying to run 35 chain? Isn't the sprocket on the axle 40/41?.. The bigger the chain the better with trikes. Especially if you are using the jackshaft brake. That link you send has the weld able bearing holder you don't need. Get as much as you can get done and bring it to Windber. I'm sure we can finish it there.
 
#24
I always buy the longer keyed jackshaft and cut off what I don't need. A couple of bearings and collars with a sprocket and away you go. Are you trying to run 35 chain? Isn't the sprocket on the axle 40/41?.. The bigger the chain the better with trikes. Especially if you are using the jackshaft brake. That link you send has the weld able bearing holder you don't need. Get as much as you can get done and bring it to Windber. I'm sure we can finish it there.
Hey again Randy...thank you for chiming in !!

Regarding the #35 chain....here's my plan....and my inexperience may be showing again.....but I'm stealing the HS40 motor off the Bird War Eagle. I wanted to get a torque converter for this season, but for financial and time reasons, plan on using a sprocket to drive the jackshaft. Since my HS40 has a good #35 clutch on it I'd planned on keeping it there, connecting with #35 chain to drive the jackshaft (on the input side)...then making the output set up the same as it is now with the 40/41 output sprocket, and chain set that is there to drive the rear axle.

I understand this is not a heavy duty solution...but my intention for this set up is primarilly to get the kids riding at Windber week after next without too much more expense....then having more time on my hands to make educated cost effective selections...this winter I'll replace the #35 clutch/chain/sprocket set up with a new torque converter set up. I figure with the new jackshaft, and bearings in place, when it does come time to installing the well thought out TC system, it should be in good shape to install it.

What do you think ?

P.S. regarding the weldable bearing holders, that is what I was calling 'hangers'...and yes, I won't need them.
 
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#25
If money is an isssue than doing it twice,first a clutch then torque converter is wasting money. And a trike is a lot heavier than a mini bike. Even with kids those Windber hills are going to heat that clutch up. If you dont wear out the clutch it may not have the torque to make it up the hills very well. I would hate to see the look on the kids faces when they are watching other people ride and their trike is dead on the hill.... Just my opinion.
 
#26
If money is an isssue than doing it twice,first a clutch then torque converter is wasting money. And a trike is a lot heavier than a mini bike. Even with kids those Windber hills are going to heat that clutch up. If you dont wear out the clutch it may not have the torque to make it up the hills very well. I would hate to see the look on the kids faces when they are watching other people ride and their trike is dead on the hill.... Just my opinion.
I'd decided to go with the clutch and sprocket set up, because it was suggested above as a good lower cost, quick, solution for this trip to Windber (since I have the motor with clutch already on it). I don't know enough about gear ratios etc, to be certain it would or would not work, and was going off of Rob and WJ's suggestions.

They'd suggested an 18 to 24 tooth input sprocket...so you really think it'd be too weak and stressful the the clutch to pull my 12, or 6 year old around ?

Thank you !
 
#27
I guess we are going to find out. Are they taking it on the parade? You may want to work faster and test it before Windber. If it doesn't feel right you can always put the torque converter on at Windber. I'm sure all the parts you need will be there.
 
#28
I'd gear it pretty short if it was me. Clutch will last and they don't need a ton of speed, I'm guessing.
The TC starts in the 2-2.5:1 range and tops at 1:1 or a little overdrive.
 
#29
I guess we are going to find out. Are they taking it on the parade? You may want to work faster and test it before Windber. If it doesn't feel right you can always put the torque converter on at Windber. I'm sure all the parts you need will be there.
This year, they will be primarily getting used to the feel of it, so no downtown parade for it this year. I envision it going around and around the circle in the lower camping area a bunch....:scooter: Maybe occasionally on the upper circle, and no real trail riding....that'll happen next year probably after they are more used to it.

I got my jackshaft parts ordered from our friendly neighborhood OldMiniBikes web page :thumbsup: requested artwork and stickers :smile:
 
#30
I think Jeff mentioned not riding around the flat lower part in circles. You may want to check with him. I think the flat area we are usually in is getting more packed every year and may not be a circular opening this year. Might be tighter rows. I think he wants the majority of riding up in the trails.... But little kids always have the right of way and won't get hassled wherever they ride.
 
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#31
Hey again Y'all...another question....this one regarding the band brake.

The brake pad or brake lining has separated from the band. Fortunately as one piece, as I plan to re-attach it to the band.

My question is...what is best to use to adhere the two together....JB-Weld....Gorrilla Glue, or what :shrug: ?

Thank you !
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#32
I would use jb weld and then drill and counter sink 3/16" holes every 2" or 3" and rivet the shoe to the metal band with either pop rivets or hollow brass rivets..
 
#33
I would use jb weld and then drill and counter sink 3/16" holes every 2" or 3" and rivet the shoe to the metal band with either pop rivets or hollow brass rivets..
Thank You 125ccCrazy !! I appreciate the guidance.

Got the JB Weld last night, degreased the band, and am going to apply it today.
 
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