14cc Head Upgrade???

#1
i have a clone with these mods: 2 stage header, uni filter, 22mm mikuni w/ fuel pump, 18lb springs, billet fw and rod, .265 cam, retainer and keeper set, flat top piston.

I would like to step up the power one more step. Would a "bare" 14cc head be very much of an upgrade? Im only asking because its pretty cheap at about $60. Anything else in the low price range worth the price? will I be able to run 91 octane fuel? thanks in advance.
 
#9
A lot depends on how the engine runs.

Some engines do just fine on premium UL 91.

Add some timing, and depending on how well you fill your cylinder things maye be different.

You need to read your plug and see where things are.

Closed chamber heads like the 14 tend to be more forgiving of compression but at the cost of valve shrouding. When you unshroud your head you lower the compression slightly but gain it back in better flow.

Personaly I would like to play with Mr. Bungle's engine and see exactly where its sitting.
He may have more power yet.

I think his cylinder presure might be dropping off allowing him to run low octane gasoline.
 
#10
okay thanks for all the input guys. I will go with a 14cc head then. Would it be necessary to run stainless steel valves and hardened lash caps or could i get way without them? So from what i understand, it should run fine with 91 octane fuel correct?
 
#14
Where could i take it to have that done? do you have an idea of how much it costs? sorry, iv never had that done before. This is my first engine. Im still learning:scooter:
 
#15
I would use the stainless valves.

Just too easy to drop a clone valve.

Port and polish info on this sight if you do a search.

In just a few years of tinkering with these clones I learned a lot from MDB and others.
They will give you a push in the right direction but you need to do the leg work yourself.

Here's a pair of 14s.
The black one was my first port and polish.
Took 4 heads and a lot of tinkering and modifying to figuere out what works and what does not.
http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/Dougwp/clone stuff/?action=view&current=100_9712.jpg

I have come to the conclussion a 14cc head is better than a mild 18 or 22 on a mild motor with stock valves.
Most of the porting gains are simple to do with a mini grinder.
You loose a little top end with a 14cc head over a milled 22.

Just looked at my notes to see if there was anything I could add.
without some dyno time I can only say that smaller ( I call them closed because they have more quench ) seemed to work better with the long rod than the shorter rod. I measured .010 in the hole with last engine I built. This same engine with the 22cc head milled needed more timing than the 14cc.

Everything changes with big valves.
No experience with that......
 
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