1968 Rupp TT500 Resto Mod

M

MIGZ

New Member
#1
#1
Hi folks new here but not new to tinkering. Have really enjoyed looking at what everyone is doing and I'm fully aware what i will be doing is considered a crime by many.

I picked this up to restore but quickly found out it far too expensive to properly restore, so its going to be a resto-mod meaning most likely a predator with new powder coat

Looking for some help/ advise.

1. Where would be the best place to find the missing jack shaft
2. Does anyone have any good pic of the brake set up on these
3. Will a predator 212 fit in this frame


Thanks

00u0u_8ErCMVlUhhG_1200x900.jpg
 
manchester1

manchester1

#2
#2
Member Markus just posted some photos of the brake assembly recently for somebody.:eek:ut: You can make your own jackshaft. OldMiniBikes has all the parts you need.:thumbsup:
 
mrpat

mrpat

#4
#4
A predator 212should fit nicely in there. I have a frame in similar condition that I plan on doing the same with. Are you going for a single speed Jack shaft setup or a 2 speed? Mini Bike | Go Kart | Lawn Mower | Small Engine - Parts will have the 5/8" jack shafts (just order it long and cut to size at home) along with the 5/8" i.d. bearings, the sprockets, key stock, and retainers.

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M

MIGZ

New Member
#5
#5
I'm probably going to stick with a single speed set up.

I just have no clue what the jackshaft set up looks like
 
mrpat

mrpat

#6
#6
You know, you could just go from clutch to rear wheel the way it sets. If you go the jackshaft way, the rear wheel needs flipped. I don't have any pics of a jackshaft setup handy, but there are plenty out there. You can just Google search

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J

JKautoFab

Active Member
#7
#7
oh wow thats a cool disc brake ive not seen one like that...

it APPEARS as tho your frame holes for the jackshaft are meant to directly accept 5/8s bearings with the clip retainers. I thought the jackshaft setup on my sears roper had little sleeves for the bearings to slide into, but upon looking closely i realized it was just flat plate with holes.

so dont bother with mounts, just measure and buy a shaft, some sprockets, and make sure to have some 5/8 ID pipe stock to cut your own spacers so when you tighten things up you arent side loading the bearings. dont forget key for the keyway!
 
J

JKautoFab

Active Member
#8
#8
oh and i would get a predator to test fit because it looks like you may be a little close to the jackshaft. you will have more vertical room though so some long bolts and spacers to raise the engine would clear it.


are the footpegs welded on? Im looking at that thing thinking, you should really move the footpegs up forward (im sure you are larger and could use the legroom) and its a resto-mod so dont need to be original....


... i would flip the rear wheel and run a TAV with your rear pulley right there on the jackshaft. You may have to get a non-standard belt size but i think it would be worth it.
 
Last edited:
buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#9
#9


You will have trouble keeping the chain on I would think. Maybe not.
I just did a jackshaft set up on a Rupp.
It was intimidating. But, I did it and works as it should.
Really not as hard as I was making it.
You can kinda see. I can get some better ones it you want.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#10
#10
I think you will end up having to raise the predator off the engine plate to clear the jackshaft assy on that frame, and you would not be able to run the 2 speed with the predator at all unless you got it really high in the frame. I would not run without a jackshaft on that frame. If I am not mistaken they didn't do too well with chains even off the jackshaft from the get go.

This is the setup with cable actuated brake (the bracket on the left is the one needed for the rear mount),


looks like you have the foot brake rod, so that outside bracket with the cable mount is deleted and a different arm on the caliper is used so it can sit in a different postion, all I have for a photo of the foot brake assembled is from left side (c250/c350/c500) but you can get the basic idea from it...the pivot on yours is welded to the other side of the foot brake rod and everything goes on the other side of the bike.

 
mrpat

mrpat

#11
#11
When I get home from work tonight, I will set the predator motor in the TT500 frame with a mocked up jackshaft just to see how good or bad it is.
 
mrpat

mrpat

#13
#13
Yep, Markus is right about the shims under the engine. It's fits snug, but no room for the sprockets on the inside of the jack shaft setup. Looks like about an inch of room from top tube on frame to top of gas tank.


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mrpat

mrpat

#15
#15
MIGZ said:
Thanks so much for there pics!!

So you think it should be raised a bit ?

dang that is going to help
Click to expand...
It appears that 3/4" would be the minimum for raising the engine. If you remove the gas tank and use something like buckeye has on his, it would be great! Since the bike I have would need so much to bring it back to new, I think I am going to march forward with the predator engine on it. Thanks for the inspiration, I like the way that engine fills up the engine compartment.

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M

MIGZ

New Member
#16
#16
mrpat said:
It appears that 3/4" would be the minimum for raising the engine. If you remove the gas tank and use something like buckeye has on his, it would be great! Since the bike I have would need so much to bring it back to new, I think I am going to march forward with the predator engine on it. Thanks for the inspiration, I like the way that engine fills up the engine compartment.

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Click to expand...
That is why Im going with the predator mine if far from ever being perfect so I'm just going to give it new life. I have some weld repair to do on mine too.
 
M

MIGZ

New Member
#17
#17
trying to figure out what other options would I have for the brakes, I only have a few parts of the disk brake set up and would rather not spend a fortune getting real rump stuff
 
mrpat

mrpat

#19
#19
I'm making 1/4" engine spacer plates at work. Can stack them to raise at 1/4" increments. If they work well, I will let u know

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