1970 Rupp Roadster Rebuild
- Thread starter OriginalWhitey
- Start date
- Tags 1970 rebuild roadster rupp
unk: Hopefully my enduro will be like yours someday.
Thanks everyone for the positive comments. The frame looks nice but it is still far from done. I'm trying to rebuild the carb now and need some help so take a look at this thread and answer my carb questions so I can get this thing running:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/t...-together-right-way-lots-pics.html#post160331
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/t...-together-right-way-lots-pics.html#post160331
Just curious, whats so bad about these carbs? I'm going to try and put it together the way I found it with all the original parts. If it is a pain the the ass then I will upgrade it but I already have the rebuild for it so I might as well use it for now.
So If I'm understanding right, it goes: carb, diaphram, gasket, bottom? Also, any input on the other questions in that thread?
Its been a while but here's a little update on this. The motor is pretty much done besides an oil seal:
Mounted on the bike:
Now that the motor is in the frame, I can start on the electronics. First is rebuilding the coil:
Although the bolt for the condensor snapped since it was so rusty even the simple stuff is turning into a project. :mad2: The one good thing is since I ordered enough shrink tubing for the wiring I decided to dress up the brake cables. I cut off the end, heat shrunk black shrink tubing on the case. cleaned the wire and greased everything and rewelded the ends back on. They work and look brand new(ish) for little to no money:
Can't believe this thing has been going on for over a year... I'm a slacker :doah:
Mounted on the bike:
Now that the motor is in the frame, I can start on the electronics. First is rebuilding the coil:
Although the bolt for the condensor snapped since it was so rusty even the simple stuff is turning into a project. :mad2: The one good thing is since I ordered enough shrink tubing for the wiring I decided to dress up the brake cables. I cut off the end, heat shrunk black shrink tubing on the case. cleaned the wire and greased everything and rewelded the ends back on. They work and look brand new(ish) for little to no money:
Can't believe this thing has been going on for over a year... I'm a slacker :doah:
Got the oil seal I was waiting on (Thanks Randy)
So the motor is now buttoned up and I put the clutch on:
The back jackshaft isn't tight becuase I'm missing a key, hopefully I can pick one up together and this part finished. Hopefully the belt tightens up cause I'm reusing the same one that I took off and it looked fine when I first got it:
So the motor is now buttoned up and I put the clutch on:
The back jackshaft isn't tight becuase I'm missing a key, hopefully I can pick one up together and this part finished. Hopefully the belt tightens up cause I'm reusing the same one that I took off and it looked fine when I first got it:
Started on electrical. Got the coil mounted:
Debating on weather to restore the stock button or just upgrade it to something modern:
Along with the wiring I mounted a tach. I had this 5 inch monster tach lying around for a while so I'm going to give it a try and see if I can get it to work with this motor.
If everything works right I'll take off the gonveror and use the shift light as a reminder to let off the gas if over-reving. The only thing I'm worried about is not having the amps. I'm probably going to run a GM ignition module and a rectifier to convert to DC. This method worked when I needed to get a clean tach signal when I converted my 2-stroke carb'd Banshee to EFI. You can see the ignition module pictured below from my 4-wheeler:
Hopefully it'll work, I just want to get all the wiring ran for it for now since I can integrate it in the stock harness. I want to get the thing running first before I monkey with the tach.
Debating on weather to restore the stock button or just upgrade it to something modern:
Along with the wiring I mounted a tach. I had this 5 inch monster tach lying around for a while so I'm going to give it a try and see if I can get it to work with this motor.
If everything works right I'll take off the gonveror and use the shift light as a reminder to let off the gas if over-reving. The only thing I'm worried about is not having the amps. I'm probably going to run a GM ignition module and a rectifier to convert to DC. This method worked when I needed to get a clean tach signal when I converted my 2-stroke carb'd Banshee to EFI. You can see the ignition module pictured below from my 4-wheeler:
Hopefully it'll work, I just want to get all the wiring ran for it for now since I can integrate it in the stock harness. I want to get the thing running first before I monkey with the tach.
Its been a long time since I've updated this thread so here we go. I got rid of the tach to just do a simple wiring job. For the connector I just gutted some off the shelf connectors:
Here was my temp wiring to make sure everything was wired right before I did it nice:
Finished connector and wires all shrink wrapped:
Also, the stock switch was too far gone so I just bought a new one that works:
I also bought a new(ish) pull starter. This one doesn't have all rust holes like the original one that was on the bike. I'll sandblast it and paint it after the bike is done and running:
I also ditched the original carb. Even though it was rebuilt it was just way too far gone. I got it running a little with the original but it wouldn't idle or stay running. With the new carb it idles and revvs. Its still a pain in the ass to start but I think I can fix that with tuning. The new carb had a different part number and had a port that put gas into the intake. Here's a pic of the old vs new:
I epoxied it closed and now its sealed. (If you look at the pic above I tried to block it off with one of those aluminum things from my carb rebuid kit, but it wasn't the right size):
Here it is on the bike:
The to-do list is getting smaller and smaller. The throttle linkage using the govenor is being a pain in the ass but hopefully I can get that figured out soon
Here was my temp wiring to make sure everything was wired right before I did it nice:
Finished connector and wires all shrink wrapped:
Also, the stock switch was too far gone so I just bought a new one that works:
I also bought a new(ish) pull starter. This one doesn't have all rust holes like the original one that was on the bike. I'll sandblast it and paint it after the bike is done and running:
I also ditched the original carb. Even though it was rebuilt it was just way too far gone. I got it running a little with the original but it wouldn't idle or stay running. With the new carb it idles and revvs. Its still a pain in the ass to start but I think I can fix that with tuning. The new carb had a different part number and had a port that put gas into the intake. Here's a pic of the old vs new:
I epoxied it closed and now its sealed. (If you look at the pic above I tried to block it off with one of those aluminum things from my carb rebuid kit, but it wasn't the right size):
Here it is on the bike:
The to-do list is getting smaller and smaller. The throttle linkage using the govenor is being a pain in the ass but hopefully I can get that figured out soon