A fat tire bobber.. ? First build.

jeffe

jeffe

Member
#61
#61
Well, it's now standing on its own two... bars?

Got the seat post and neck joint tacked, no more welding magnets required... :smile: Man, I don't think I could have made this any straighter, everything seems nice and plumb/level/even. I sort of wish I had made it out of nicer material... maybe next time... :laugh:

Oh, what should I put in the front of the lower tubes? Spikes? Bullets? :eek:ut:



The top tubes actually do line up with the lowers... really...



Drew up an axle plate idea on cardboard. Not sure how I should weld them in yet as far as slotting the tubes and such. Maybe I'll ask the question in the tech section.

 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#62
#62
WOW! Nice job. Hey. Do yourself a favor and figure out which seat system you are going to use once you get axle location in the rear figured out. You might end up having to make some spring perches for a solo seat, and a hinge for the front, etc. I ran into this dilemma before. Seat gets last billing, but the damn thing ends up being finicky to install, if you haven't planned for it.
 
firemarshal71

firemarshal71

#63
#63
jeffe said:
Drew up an axle plate idea on cardboard. Not sure how I should weld them in yet as far as slotting the tubes and such. Maybe I'll ask the question in the tech section.

Click to expand...
I would slot all the way through the tube ends and weld on both sides of the tube and then grind/blend the outside flush. I still make frames with black pipe because it is easy to get and affordable but I would advise not exhausting all of your efforts getting everything symmetrical using that material. I like the pillow block idea you are using with the zirc fittings.:thumbsup:
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#64
#64
Havasu Dave said:
WOW! Nice job. Hey. Do yourself a favor and figure out which seat system you are going to use once you get axle location in the rear figured out. You might end up having to make some spring perches for a solo seat, and a hinge for the front, etc. I ran into this dilemma before. Seat gets last billing, but the damn thing ends up being finicky to install, if you haven't planned for it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave. Yeah, seat.. I kind of had it in the back of my mind that I would end up putting in a cross piece for the spring mounts, but If I buy or make a seat now, maybe that won't be required. Maybe just spring mounts from the wishbones and a hinge. I will keep it more in the front of my mind... :smile:
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#65
#65
firemarshal71 said:
I would slot all the way through the tube ends and weld on both sides of the tube and then grind/blend the outside flush. I still make frames with black pipe because it is easy to get and affordable but I would advise not exhausting all of your efforts getting everything symmetrical using that material. I like the pillow block idea you are using with the zirc fittings.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Hey, thanks. Yeah, I suppose a full slot would be the strongest. Initially I had thought of just slotting the inside of the tubes, but that doesn't give that much weld area.
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#67
#67
UnorthodoxCreat said:
Really nice project
Click to expand...
Thanks !

I didn't do much today except make a cardboard seat. 13" long by 10" wide... seems to be a common size for a 'small' solo seat. Took a few pics at ride height, about 7" clearance. This was good for figuring seat placement/height (about 26" as it sits).
I need to plan for fender mounts, too.








 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#68
#68
Haven't done any building.. just getting some parts ordered. I'm going with a hydraulic disc setup. I think I'm going to hold off on axle plates until I receive the brake assembly, thinking I can maybe mount the caliper on the axle plate.. on standoffs possibly..

Picked up some 3/16 and 1/4 plate for motor plate and triple trees. Thought I might try to go with 3/16 for the motor plate, I'll have two more tubes going across underneath to weld the plate to. Plate will end up being maybe 9" long and 6" wide. 3/16 should be strong enough, I hope.. ?

I need to decide on 3/4 or 1" pipe for the forks and plate thickness for the triple trees... I'm open to any recommendations... :smile:
 
firemarshal71

firemarshal71

#69
#69
jeffe said:
Haven't done any building.. just getting some parts ordered. I'm going with a hydraulic disc setup. I think I'm going to hold off on axle plates until I receive the brake assembly, thinking I can maybe mount the caliper on the axle plate.. on standoffs possibly..

Picked up some 3/16 and 1/4 plate for motor plate and triple trees. Thought I might try to go with 3/16 for the motor plate, I'll have two more tubes going across underneath to weld the plate to. Plate will end up being maybe 9" long and 6" wide. 3/16 should be strong enough, I hope.. ?

I need to decide on 3/4 or 1" pipe for the forks and plate thickness for the triple trees... I'm open to any recommendations... :smile:
Click to expand...
I would keep the 3/4 pipe (~1" inch OD) for the front same as the rest of your frame. I am not sure what you plan on doing with the handle bars but I didnt have much luck getting some of the more common throttle controls to slip over pipe dimensions (unless you do a little grinding). I also think that 3/16 is OK for the triple plates but that all depends on how wide, etc. your plans are for the forks. The hydraulic calipers also require a little more side clearance and it gets a little tricky with tolerances around the back axle and wheel so you are probably safe with holding off until you get the pieces you intend on using (learned that the hard way).
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#70
#70
firemarshal71 said:
I would keep the 3/4 pipe (~1" inch OD) for the front same as the rest of your frame. I am not sure what you plan on doing with the handle bars but I didnt have much luck getting some of the more common throttle controls to slip over pipe dimensions (unless you do a little grinding). I also think that 3/16 is OK for the triple plates but that all depends on how wide, etc. your plans are for the forks. The hydraulic calipers also require a little more side clearance and it gets a little tricky with tolerances around the back axle and wheel so you are probably safe with holding off until you get the pieces you intend on using (learned that the hard way).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. I picked up another length of 3/4 pipe on my way home. I have room to do a double bend below the lower triple plate to bring the fork tubes from around 10" in between to maybe 6 or 7 inches, so the triple plates won't be that big. Hopefully that will look okay. I also like the look of the forks where the lower triple plate is wider and the tubes bend in between the two.

I think I'm just going to buy a set of 7/8" handlebars. There are a bunch available for under $30, pretty reasonable. If they were $100, I would probably try making some.
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#71
#71
I was thinking about buying a seat, but then I found a piece of 1/8" aluminum I had sitting around for at least 10 years. So, I figured I should, at least, try to make one. I remember Lowandwide saying he drew a couple of circles and connected them to end up with a seat template. I did the same... I traced around the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket for the big circle and a bearing grease container for the small one. Very high tech :laugh:

I was wondering if the aluminum would be strong enough, but judging by how hard it was to bend I think it will be. I clamped it in my workmate bench and bent it a bit at a time. I was going to cut it a little narrower at the front because it didn't seem like it would be comfortable, but I ended up resting it on a piece of pipe on the floor and hammering the sides over. I might go a bit more, but it's better already and some foam will help too.

I think I'll have a piece of 1/8 flat bar underneath where the springs mount, just to help with support.





 
yalipito

yalipito

Member
#72
#72
I like what you did here. I make my own pans too but have never rolled the sides down. After seeing this mine will be rolled. Good job once again.
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#74
#74
Thanks, Guys.

I did end up rolling the edges of the seat a little more, I think it will be comfortable with some foam.. and springs.

I cut and started fitting the neck tube. I printed a mitering template, but was only able to use very end of it so it probably wasn't that accurate. I needed something to go by, though, I'm not good at eyeballing these joints...:smile: The backbone didn't end up being horizontal where it came in to the neck, so I had to guesstimate for that angle...
Anyway, it seems to be fairly close, a bit steep yet. I'm going to take my adjustable level to work tonight and calibrate it to the digital inclinometer we have before I go any further. I don't really have any other way of measuring the angle.


 
firemarshal71

firemarshal71

#75
#75
If you have an I-phone (maybe some of the other phones have the same feature), the "extras" app has a digital level & compass that I use when I need to get something plumb or have an angle measurement I am shooting for.
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#77
#77
firemarshal71 said:
If you have an I-phone (maybe some of the other phones have the same feature), the "extras" app has a digital level & compass that I use when I need to get something plumb or have an angle measurement I am shooting for.
Click to expand...
Thanks. That would be handy, but I have an old HTC that I wouldn't trust, anyway.. :smile: I have a spirit level with an angle finder, turns out it's about 1.5 degrees off at the angles I checked last night. At least it's consistent.

jdogg said:
Seat pan is looking good!!
Click to expand...
Thanks :smile:

My brake setup should be here today or tomorrow. Also ordered seat springs, handlebars and clamps, twist throttle, a kill switch, and some six dollar foot pegs. Not sure what I'll do for foot pegs or floorboards at this point. I'll see how the fit works out for me, and less importantly, the boys. But they're almost 5 feet tall, I'm sure they'll grow in to it.. :laugh:
 
Paticus

Paticus

Member
#78
#78
Just curious, you planning to support that tube with a gusset? It looks awfully bare on the bottom lol.

jeffe said:
Thanks, Guys.

I did end up rolling the edges of the seat a little more, I think it will be comfortable with some foam.. and springs.

I cut and started fitting the neck tube. I printed a mitering template, but was only able to use very end of it so it probably wasn't that accurate. I needed something to go by, though, I'm not good at eyeballing these joints...:smile: The backbone didn't end up being horizontal where it came in to the neck, so I had to guesstimate for that angle...
Anyway, it seems to be fairly close, a bit steep yet. I'm going to take my adjustable level to work tonight and calibrate it to the digital inclinometer we have before I go any further. I don't really have any other way of measuring the angle.
Click to expand...
 
jeffe

jeffe

Member
#79
#79
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