Alexander Reynolds Makeover

J

jimh

#1
#1
I got this one about a year ago. It had a good running, ratty looking H30. I painted the frame and straightened the forks and repainted. I found some old fenders and somewhat straightened and painted . Pulled the tires off and stripped and painted the wheels. All this stuff has been lying and hanging around in my way for months. Replaced the engine with a 5hp Briggs. I used some Duplicolor vinyl paint to shine up the seat.The clutch is an old Max Torque that I reengineered to be like the older Comets, and Fairbanks Morse. I removed the center hub from the weighted part and cut off the tube that goes thru the sprocket part of the drum and has a snap ring on it. I added two steering head type flanged bushings to the sprocket section of the drum. That should let it operate smoother and kill the rattling. Also got a new Cherry throttle and grip. all that's left is to mount the fenders and throttle. Here's the before pic. I'll post after pics this evening.

 
J

jimh

#3
#3
The clutch is already mounted, but maybe I can explain it better. I removed the snapring behind the sprocket. This allows the weighted part to be removed. When you look on the back of the weighted part, you see another snap ring. Remove it and pull the center hub out the front. Cut the tube off the rear of the hub, and smooth it up, as it will be contacting the flange of the bushing. Put the hub back in the weighted part ( after reassembling it), and put the snap ring back on. Now in the bore that runs through the sprocket section of the hub, you should have a 7/8 hole about 1" through. You put a flanged 7/8 OD 3/4 ID X 1/2 long bushing in the bore from the inside, and another from the outside, You may have to shave the length a little to make sure the flanges are flush inside and out, and that there is not a gap inside the bore. Pull one apart and look at it and it's pretty much self explanatory. Ideally you would want keyed bushings so the hub could free spin on them, but this way the crank free spins in the bushings. Should be fine unless it is idled for long periods, or run unlubed which mine aren't. I have another old clutch I'm going to do this to, so I might post pics. My photography skills suck, so that's a maybe. The drum part just slips on the crank, and when you put the weighted part on, position it to allow the slightest end play in the drum. This will allow the oil to get to the bushings and prevent the rattling caused by binding. This is the first one I've done, so I'll have to try it out before I say it's a good mod.
 
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J

jimh

#4
#4
Here's the after pics. It runs great and the clutch works real smooth. No rattling and hissing. It locks quietly now. After the pics, we rode it hard for about an hour, and all is good. Much quicker now.:thumbsup: The frame is still dusty from hanging in the shop, but I'll clean it up later. The throttle cable is a mile too long, and will need trimmed a foot or so.



 
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buttgoblin707

buttgoblin707

New Member
#8
#8
Looks just like the frame I purchased on ebay, I got it because I liked the scrub brake setup, Ill post pics of mine when i get it sorted. Cant wait to get it built, the town council busybodys got sum speed bumps put in the area and i want a minibike to play with on them :thumbsup:
 
J

jimh

#10
#10
I think I saw the one on eBay. Was it the one with the number plate bracket on the front? I've never seen another one except one on ebay a week or 2 ago. I guess they thought the number plate and high front fender would make them look a little more like a little dirt bike.

Mike,I used Duplicolor aluminum engine enamel and clearcoat for the clutch drum and BBQ black for the shoe housing part.
 
J

jimh

#12
#12
Thanks. I like the little steel wheeled, hardtail, vibrating, chain rattling ones best myself. I think it would look better with the fender lowered and a clutch cover, but it's just something to play on.
 
Zach

Zach

New Member
#13
#13
How does that scrub brake work?? Do you just push the pedal and it makes the bar rub against the back tire?? Is there anyway I could convert my drum brake on my AR to one of those fairly easy?? Great looking bike dude im gonna do the same thing. Your before and after pictures look great :thumbsup: Nice resto :scooter:
 
buttgoblin707

buttgoblin707

New Member
#15
#15
scrubs

Yes you could weld a thick plate of steel to a axle that pivots enough to touch the rear tire, I had a goped bigfoot years ago with a scrub brake, it would lock the rear wheel and the surface area touching the tire was about the size of a 50 cent piece, scrub brakes are simple and effective. I only use brakes in emergencys anyways on a minibike.
 
wfc

wfc

New Member
#19
#19
Hi Jimh,

Excelent job on that bike, you can realy be proud of it. As you say, its something to play on, so I wish you many awesome hours of (no breakdown) playtime.
 
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