Bikes vibrates

#1
Hey guys I did the whole 6.5hp harbor freight engine upgrade on the the green doodlebug mini bike... After riding it I noticed that when we ride it it vidratessooo much. Any reason why you think? Thanks in advance!

Martin
 
#5
I think the motor mount plate on them is a little on the thin side.
We have a winner!:thumbsup:
Actually, they are a LOT "on the thin side". They were made to accommodate the puny little Baja OEM engine. With the significant additional weight, HP and (especially) torque of the HF 6.5 HP engine that engine plate will flex. You need to reinforce that engine mount plate.
Michael
 
#7
If you look at how the adapter mounts it does not allow full contact with the plate, they do not make anything better or easier except for engine installation. I have always re-slotted DBs rather than use those plates, I would never use one because I refuse to spend money to half ass mount an engine to an already compromised engine plate. The real culprit is the poor contact the plate makes with the frame, if it was welded down each side like vintage minis there would not be a problem even with the thickness.
 
#8
Well guys I am a fabricator so I could weld or make something...what do you guys suggest? Please post pics if you guys don't mind... Thanks in advance for all the replies...

Martin
 

T-Town Mini

Well-Known Member
#9
If I had the facilities to do so I'd like to graft an engine mount setup used in Kart Racing onto a mini bike frame.



Ditch the slotted plate entirely and go with that utilize existing mounts etc. which are readily available. (as seen in example photo above) It would only require a little measurement for proper sprocket alignment and cutting, fitting and welding in the tubing for the mount to clamp onto. :grind:

Has anyone done that successfully before?
 
#11
Well guys I am a fabricator so I could weld or make something...what do you guys suggest? Please post pics if you guys don't mind... Thanks in advance for all the replies...Martin
We added (welded) on an additional (already slotted) engine mount plate directly on top of the OEM plate. You can buy them already made- you just have to trim the length a bit. We cut out slots in the OEM plate to match the added plate before welding it down. Worked out great on our 2 Doodlebugs and was a significant improvement.:thumbsup:
Michael
 
#13
T-town I think I like the rubber spacer idea. Do you think I should incorporate the spacer plate that came with the conversion kit? if so how do you think I should do that?
 
#15
T-town I think I like the rubber spacer idea. Do you think I should incorporate the spacer plate that came with the conversion kit? if so how do you think I should do that?
Conversion or adapter plates do not utilize the entire engine plate, putting rubber under an already bad idea is just an even worse idea and it will shake like a broke crack head. Re-slot the plate and then gusset it to the frame for more frame contact. I've done around eight DB engine swaps and never felt the need for an adapter, not even with the 1st one. I plan a higher HP engine next time and will gusset my re-slotted plate across the front and sides as well as stiffen the plate with round stock.
 
#16
Outlaw can you please post a picture to what you did where you mounted your engine? I'm not sure where you re slotted and where you put your gussets. I wanna get this done before the weather gets ant shittier here in Oregon... Lol
 
#17
Never got to the gusseting but here's a pic of the re-slotted plate, I plan to make wedges to fill the gaps on my next one and weld em up then do what my buddy JDogg did across the bottom.

It's a new style DB but just the same plate. My first one was successful because I thought it out and made damn sure the chain was 100% in alignment with the clutch mounted inboard then I marked the edges of the engine and made a slot template the same size as the engine base then marked and slotted the plate. I have every confidence that you and most other members can do the same, I like doing things the hard way.
 
#19
Outlaw how did you line up the sprocket on the back wheel to the clutch? I may have an idea but I wanna do it right...
A true straight edge with the engine clamped to the plate, I just moved it till it was 100% aligned then double and triple checked before marking anything. After the 1st one I made a template but it was not returned when I loaned it out, I hope to make another one from one of two DBs I have left that I re-slotted. You can do it, I'm not the first to have done it I'm sure.:thumbsup:
 
#20
Sounds easy enough... I'll give a try to eliminate the spacer plate that I'm using... Thanks a bunch for your help... Hope this eliminates the vibration... I'll keep you posted and give you guys my results...

Martin
 
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