I am near the end of my project and have an issue. The engine has been upgraded to a Powerhorse 414 at about 13.5 hp. I'm using a comet 40 setup also. The original jackshat was 5/8 but I upgraded to 3/4. The sprocket ratio is 10:54 As far as i can tell everything is lined up well. Driver to driven and jackshaft to rear end. I first destroyed a double sealed Heim bearing and thought it was because I nicked the bearing seal putting it in and figure it may have bounds the bearings causing heat and friction. I temporarily put one of the original unsealed bearings in until I picked up a sealed one. I've been finishing up some work on it and taking short rides in the neighborhood and tonight that bearing was destroyed. I'm wondering if the torque produced by this engine pulls to hard on the jackshaft compressing the bearing against the plate it is mounted in. That original plate is only about 1/16" thick and would create a small pressure point on the bearing housing resulting in failure. Another possibility could be a tiny misalignment between the two jackshaft bearings. Or possibly could it be as simple with this bearing as running out of grease and burning up. I've got 1/4" thick bearing plates (like a huge washer) that is meant to be welded but since I already powdercoated the frame. I was thinking I could bolt the plate to the original plate giving a much thicker plate to support the bearing housing. Has anybody had this problem? How did you fix it? Any ideas from anyone?
Burning out drive side jackshaft bearing on Trisport RTS-5. Help?
You could go to a full 3/4 inch sealed bearing that uses the 2 bolt flangettes. It would take some careful alignment to drill out the frame to accept the larger bearings. But they will take the power without any problems. What is all of your gearing numbers and what is your goal ? Speed or off road ability and your tire size matters too.
Steve
Steve
Thanks Steve. I look forward to a number of good ideas from you guys. The goal is off road capability and so far I'm getting good results other than this. I haven't been able to do any serious off road riding yet though. The gearing is 10T on the shaft and 54T on the rear. Tire size is 8x18 if I remember right (I matched to stock size) and I don't recall the width. I'll also be pulling a small trailer sometimes with my twins in the back. Do you know o a good supplier for those type of bearings? Are they basically the same as the bearing on the rear with the flanges that mount to the frame?
Yes they are the same style of bearings and any good bearing house should be able to supply them. I use the style with the cam-loc collar so that they won,t move out of alignment.
Being that the 40 series is a semetrical style of converter a few pictures of how you have the system mounted now.
Steve
Being that the 40 series is a semetrical style of converter a few pictures of how you have the system mounted now.
Steve
Those bearing used in the flangettes are the same as use in pillowblocks. They are insert bearings. The big RTS's used them and they hold.up to the 28hp and more 2 strokes. Even a 5/8 bearing would hold up for a.while. I think your unsealed bearing got dry or picked up some dirt that ate it.
Is that your RTS5 I saw on YouTube recently?
Is that your RTS5 I saw on YouTube recently?
I've looked into the flanged camlock bearings at Applied Industrial here in NC. There is a shop in Fayetteville where I bought all of the other bearings. It looks like the way to go. I'm going to go this week. If you are talking about the Army green RTS-5 with the Powerhorse 414 then it's probably mine. I have a bunch of pics on here. It has the header and red air cleaner on it.
That is typical of TSC, or you need 4 and they have 3. Or the can-lock is missing. At least they carry this stuff and you don't have to order it or run around to find it.
Keep on mind that the large hole placement is not as critical as the bolts. The hole can be a little off as long as it still lines up. The bolts need to be correct to maintain everything.
Keep on mind that the large hole placement is not as critical as the bolts. The hole can be a little off as long as it still lines up. The bolts need to be correct to maintain everything.
I put in the drive side eccentric bearing tonight and it line up perfectly with the flanged sealed bearing on the other side. It free spun easily, even better than before. Without the lock collars in place on the other side though the eccentric bearing had room to move back and forth laterally between the flangettes. Is this normal? If I put eccentric bearings on both sides a lock collar won't do anything to stop the lateral movement. Since the drive side bearing was the only one that was burning out I'm going to leave it like this to see how that works out. So far though it sounds quieter while coasting. Perhaps I may get a video tomorrow. I'm pretty sure ill be getting the trailer painted this weekend as well. Thanks for the idea with the eccentric bearings.
