I fixed the issue this morning putting the flanges to the inside. I did need to shim so I used two large washers drilled out to 3/4 inch. Everything is tight and smooth now. So I took it out for a spin and the half link broke on the chain. It may hebe been torqued to the side a bit when the oth bearings burnt out and jerked the shaft to the side. When I put it back on the pin wasn't fixed to one side of the link. Thanks to your TSC recommendation I picked up a pack of new ones. Thanks for all the help.
Burning out drive side jackshaft bearing on Trisport RTS-5. Help?
The half links are an issue with many Tri-sports. It's strange that they set the trikes up like that but they did. They are a WEAK link that a small length change would have fixed. You can get half links that are like a link and a half. These are stronger as they don't have the cotter pin that can wear and shear off.
Well, I typed a long response earlier but apparently it didn't post. Saying you're already to go to sleep I'm not going to type again. I fixed the flange placement and put them on the inside now everything is nice and tight. I took it out for a spin and the halflink on the chain broke. Thanks to your TSC suggestion with the bearings I picked up a pack of halflinks and master links. Thanks for the tip. I'll put the chain back on tomorrow and then attempt to fix the pullstart assembly. For some reason the winding spring is slipping in there and not pulling the rope back in. Maybe after those are fixed I can take it for a good long spin in the neighborhood. I want to get all the kinks worked out around the house before I take it to the woods. Thank you for all your help.
One more thing. Are the cam lock bearings in the rear where they mount to the frame supposed to have the flanges on the outside or both on one side like I had to do this one? There was one on each side when I originally disassembled it so I put it back together that way. They seemed to work just fine like that. However, I think there is some movement creating a minor wobble. Do I need to disassemble it and get both flanges on one side?
They do have an opening on the bottom so you can pull the assembly out but I needed to remove the left side brake drum anyway since I can't use one with the large 40 series driven unit. When the driven unit opens up it would hit the brake band mount. My solution was to give it a jack shaft brake drum set up which is working fine. I've already got it disassembled. I couldn't shift the right side flanges because with the brake drum on the right side there's no room for any movement. The brake drums I ordered aren't like the originals. They are wider because the bore and collar are not internal like the originals that were on it. I'm about to get it back together.
I'm glad you're getting thing together. Jackshaft brakes Re not uncommon and my TS290 came from the factory with 3 bands. 1 on each axle and a third on the j/s. Since the bands can operate from any position, can you rotate the.band and redrill the anchor bolt to another position? My axle bands are not much but the j/s band is REAL hard on chains.
Take the time if it is apart to clean and relube the diff. Most all I've seen were nearly dry and caked with old lube. Use bentonite grease.
Take the time if it is apart to clean and relube the diff. Most all I've seen were nearly dry and caked with old lube. Use bentonite grease.
Good to hear that Jack shaft brakes are common. I bought a pre-stretched heavy-duty chain from an industrial supplier so I hope that it handles the jack shaft brake well. It's all back together and everything is tighter, much better than before. The right side axle brake doesn't flex the frame plate so much now just trying in the garage. When I did the rebuild I tore everything down so the entire different housing was cleaned and soda blasted then put back together and lubed with Lucas Red-n-tacky. It would be ready to ride again if it weren't for that damn pull start giving me a problem. I took it apart and put it back on three times yesterday but I think the spring is slipping on the inside and not recoiling rope. :shrug: I'm wondering if I'm winding it to tight so I'm going to try to wind just enough. Thanks again for all the help.
Well we are looking good for now. I fixed the recoil and the rear end seems to be doing ok after running around the neighborhood a bit. I do have one concern though. The differential is showing its age and the brass sleeve in the right side was worn when I rebuilt it. The wear is enough that the shaft is showing a slight cant on the right side. The left side looks pretty straight but it was a little loose when I had it disassembled this morning. Short of replacing the rear diff I don't see what I could do about it. I'm concerned about a catastrophic failure on the trails in the middle of nowhere. What do you think?
I replaced the bushings in mine. I got some standard bushings from graingers (i think) and a buddy installed them. I believe I use 2 on each side and then they were cut back. As to replacing the diff, well they haven't been made for a.long time. Any you find are as old ad yours and many were not treated well. New peerless diffs are available but may not handle the power, they are rated to only 10hp.