CAT 350ss Clone- 1970 Restoration

Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#1
#1
Here's the plan, I decided to build a 1970 CAT 350ss Clone. Could not find a 350ss frame so ya gotta go with what ya got..... In this case I'm using what I believe is a 1972 CAT R3501. It's been painted several times but the base color is "Flam Turquoise Baked Enamel Finish".


Before restoration


This is what I'm hoping to have after the restoration.......

 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#2
#2
The 1970 350ss came with disk brakes while the frame being used for the clone is set up for internal drum brakes.


Stop from drum brake was removed with a 6" Cut Off Chisel. A few steady raps by the weld knocked the stop right off the frame tube.



Original disk brakes are next to impossible to find so I'm using "Limtco Westbury NY" brakes. They are period correct, and will add a bit of east coast hardware to a west coast CAT. The brakes are Solid aluminum. 1-5/8 inches center-to-center of bolt mounts. 1 inch diameter round brake puck pads.



While the drum brakes can actually stop the bike the disk brakes are what was used on the 350ss. Fabricating a bracket and welding it to the frame is next..
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#3
#3
The disk brake was originally mounted on a metal bracket that's welded to the frame. A piece of 1/4 inch plate steel cut to size and shape will work for mounting the brake assembly to the frame of my 350ss clone project. Proper alignment can be achieved by having the rear wheel and sprocket on the frame to help position the brake bracket before tack welding it.


HPE Muskin CAT 350ss Rear Disk Brake

Found a closeup shot of the disk brake and will use this to copy the set up.

 
71dodge

71dodge

New Member
#4
#4
the piece of metal that holds that is shaped funny its not just a square i have the 350ss and i am missing the brake set up on it :sadcrying4: im gonna try to find a original
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#5
#5
Correct 71dodge, the bracket is offset away from the center line of the frame tube towards the tire and it also rakes back towards the rear axle. The offset is necessary to align the caliper side-to-side to the sprocket/rotor. While the backward rake aligns the two caliper mounting bolts to the circumference of the sprocket/rotor. Therefore, the two mounting bolts on the cast aluminum brake assembly should be equal distance from the center of the rear axle.

The disk brake set needs to be aligned right on the money being that even under the best conditions they hardly work.

In my opinion it's a poor design to place a puck type brake on a sprocket that has a lubricated chain?? With that said, I'm still determined to build this 1970 Cat 350ss clone with the disk brake set up. It should be easy enough to add/hide a clutch brake later under the cover if the disk set up doesn't stop the CAT.....
 
Last edited:
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#7
#7
71dodge I know some stuff, not too much...and you are right the brake bracket for the disk setup on the CAT's is shaped funny. I'll post some pics soon.
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#8
#8
Disk Brake bracket was fabricated and welded on frame...

HPE Muskin CAT 350ss Disk Brake Bracket




With the disk brake bracket in place, refinishing the wheels and bearings are next. The finish will be silver on the wheel halves and black on the star center caps.
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#9
#9
For extended life on wheel bearings I like using a spacer. 3/4" Electrical threaded nipples work great and slide right over the 5/8" Axle. The Electrical threaded pipe has a thinner wall thickness that Plumbing nipples and they make a perfect spacer.

Spacers lock in the inner raceway on the bearings and I usually use a 5/8" x 1/8" thick brass washer on the outer face of the inner raceway between the bearing and the fork to really lock the bearings in place. In other words, fork tube, 5/8 x 1/8" thick brass washer, 5/8" precision snap ring bearing, 3/4" Electrical threaded nipple spacer, 5/8" precision snap ring bearing, 5/8 x 1/8" thick brass washer, and fork tube.

Careful on the outside diameter size of the 5/8" brass washer between the fork tubes and bearings, you want to slightly overlap the inner raceway and no more. If the washers are too large you can lock up the bearings.

I also cut the neck of plastic water bottles to align the 3/4" Electrical threaded nipple spacer inside the wheel hub. Just makes sliding the axle in that much easier.

HPE Muskin CAT Wheel Axle and Spacer

 
osoverns

osoverns

New Member
#10
#10
Runninlate said:
For extended life on wheel bearings I like using a spacer. 3/4" Electrical threaded nipples work great and slide right over the 5/8" Axle. The Electrical threaded pipe has a thinner wall thickness that Plumbing nipples and they make a perfect spacer.

Spacers lock in the inner raceway on the bearings and I usually use a 5/8" x 1/8" thick brass washer on the outer face of the inner raceway between the bearing and the fork to really lock the bearings in place. In other words, fork tube, 5/8 x 1/8" thick brass washer, 5/8" precision snap ring bearing, 3/4" Electrical threaded nipple spacer, 5/8" precision snap ring bearing, 5/8 x 1/8" thick brass washer, and fork tube.

Careful on the outside diameter size of the 5/8" brass washer between the fork tubes and bearings, you want to slightly overlap the inner raceway and no more. If the washers are too large you can lock up the bearings.

I also cut the neck of plastic water bottles to align the 3/4" Electrical threaded nipple spacer inside the wheel hub. Just makes sliding the axle in that much easier.

HPE Muskin CAT Wheel Axle and Spacer
Click to expand...
.. huh?:boat:
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#13
#13
minibikedude said:
Nice work!
Click to expand...
Thanks minibikedude:thumbsup:

Here's a before and after of the rear wheel and tire. I was able to get the double indian carlisle from a salvaged snow thrower. The finish is silver on the wheel halves and black on the star center caps with clear duplicolor wheel rattle can sprayed as a topcoat.


Cat 350ss - Rear Wheel and Tire - After & Before
 
topcat

topcat

Member
#14
#14
were can i purchase this disc brake caliper that u have displyed .it also looks as if it will fit my 1969 catTS400 set up ! please pm:topcat.
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#15
#15
Here's a before pictures of the Tecumseh 3.5, I'm using this side exhaust until I find a rear exhaust... I'll post some after pictures as soon as I'm able to figure out why I'm having uploading file size problems with the after pictures.


CAT 350ss Clone - Tecumseh 3.50 Before

 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#16
#16
Here's the after picture of the Tecumseh 3.50. I'm using a smaller fuel tank from a mower mounted on the rear of the Tec... I like this look much better than the original front mounted tank. I may change back once I find a rear exhaust Tec 3.50.

Tecumseh 3.50 Flat Head - After
 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#17
#17
Every engine will need a clutch cover. Original chrome covers are hard to find so I'm using a poly machine guard cover, will primer and paint and cut to size.

CAT 350ss Home made Chain Guard



A few coats of filler primer will cover the wrinkle finish on the poly.

 
Runninlate

Runninlate

New Member
#18
#18
Runninlate said:
Every engine will need a clutch cover. Original chrome covers are hard to find so I'm using a poly machine guard cover, will primer and paint and cut to size.

CAT 350ss Home made Chain Guard



A few coats of filler primer will cover the wrinkle finish on the poly.
Click to expand...

Clutch Cover with first coat of chrome paint, looks like I will need to wet sand before applying the next few coats pf paint:doah::doah::doah:.

Trying the Clutch Cover decal on for size, I will wait until the cover is mounted on the engine before permanently placing the decal. Want to make sure that the decal aligns just right.

CAT 350ss Clone - Clutch Cover

 
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