Cleaning old engines
- Thread starter Wideopenthrottle
- Start date
- Tags cleaning greese motors rust
really depends on the engine. In my opinion the only way to really make an engine look new new again is to tear it down. Degrease with Marine clean, i like this stuff. May need to get into the tough spots with little brushes, etc. From there you can make an aluminum block look like new with soda blasting. other materials are just to harsh for aluminum. on other types of blocks/engine parts non aluminum i prefer glass at 40-60 psi. seems to get most corrosion off and leaves a nice finish. some guys clear coat there engines the natural metal finish when done. if using anything other then soda clean the parts damn good before you put that engine back together. soda will disolve. glass and sand can real havok in an uncleaned engine. good luck.:thumbsup:
oh yah.....nice engines!!!!
oh yah.....nice engines!!!!
Those both look great. :thumbsup:
But you need to be careful w/media blasting. Avoid using glass beads on internal engine parts, especially aluminum pieces. The abrasive particles will embed in the metal and the chances of getting it all cleaned out are about zero. I'm lucky to have access to my pal's shop. He has two booths, one w/glass bead media for hard parts like brackets & fittings, and another w/ground walnut shells for engine parts. Ground walnut shells are easier to clean up afterward, and won't change the appearance of bare metal the same way glass does. I haven't used soda, but it sounds like a safe bet, too.
Walnut Shell Abrasive Blasting Media Grit for Stripping & Cleaning
But you need to be careful w/media blasting. Avoid using glass beads on internal engine parts, especially aluminum pieces. The abrasive particles will embed in the metal and the chances of getting it all cleaned out are about zero. I'm lucky to have access to my pal's shop. He has two booths, one w/glass bead media for hard parts like brackets & fittings, and another w/ground walnut shells for engine parts. Ground walnut shells are easier to clean up afterward, and won't change the appearance of bare metal the same way glass does. I haven't used soda, but it sounds like a safe bet, too.
Walnut Shell Abrasive Blasting Media Grit for Stripping & Cleaning
I'm pretty fundamental when it comes to cleaning. First the engine is ran and proven to require no further work. Then it has its "tin" removed and any 'bodywork' done. Strong soap [like Tide laundry detergent] and HOT water is then used...a stiff bristle brush and a couple of small wire brushes assist. Then a couple of spray downs with Auto Brake Cleaner and a bit more elbow grease. It's then ready for paint. Doesn't take too long to do. My idea is that these plane-Jane minibike engines were the cheapest available, not Queens, and all had one coat paint jobs. To blast, prime and then sand and then color coat is pimping them up like a French Tart. A custom bike that is fine...an original bike? That is pushing originality. These were entry level engines with entry level paint jobs. Anyways, that is my way of looking at it.
I usually like a good paint job, but my next engine will be unpainted, and quite possibly some of it polished. I found out how good aluminum alloy can look with a little work when restoring my '69 Honda CT70. And in another forum, it was pointed out to me that paint is an insulator. I'll paint the tin, but the block will stay unpainted.
