Comet 30 Series Torque Converter
Shifting to high gear later. It's already engaged, and that happened with the driver.
The stiffer spring changes the point at which the driven starts feeling low enough torque on the gear side to allow it to decrease in diameter. It is said that this means RPM is higher- which is true. But it is acting on torque, not on centrifugal force like the driver is.
The stiffer spring changes the point at which the driven starts feeling low enough torque on the gear side to allow it to decrease in diameter. It is said that this means RPM is higher- which is true. But it is acting on torque, not on centrifugal force like the driver is.
Well i swapped for 3300 rpm springs (yellow) because I thought I would have more power than the stock setup before it shifted. I also moved the the other spring to the 3rd hole and went from a 12T sprocket to a 10T. But I have a long delay before the wheels start spinning. Is that normal? What's causing it?
You're too high geared and too stiff on the torque sensing. I'd go back to the larger sprocket first, then if not satisfied, move the notch to the middle setting. I am not a big time expert on this stuff, just know what I know from fabricating a couple of drive systems.
As a novice, I follow one rule: Make changes one thing at a time. Takes longer, but at least you know where you made the error, or decision that yielded unwanted results.
As a novice, I follow one rule: Make changes one thing at a time. Takes longer, but at least you know where you made the error, or decision that yielded unwanted results.
10 to 54 is extremely high geared. With that, and depending on total weight of machine, you'd be close to the high gear limit of a 6 or 7 HP engine and stock torque converter setup.
Since I am not there testing it with you, its hard to say anything with certainty, but you don't say if this is a big bike, heavy load, or tire diameter. But definitely go back to that 12 t sprocket and see what you have. Get new chain if you don't have it, and a chain tool if you don't have that.
Since I am not there testing it with you, its hard to say anything with certainty, but you don't say if this is a big bike, heavy load, or tire diameter. But definitely go back to that 12 t sprocket and see what you have. Get new chain if you don't have it, and a chain tool if you don't have that.
Sorry, JK, I did. Second time in recent history I've got that backwards. The rest of what I said about torque sensing still applies. Now that you pointed out my error, (sorry comeback kid) the fact that he moved the cam and changed the spring must have had even a larger impact.
The highest I've ever ran was a 13 to 60. With the weight of a kart vise mini bike, even that would be too high. I imagine the converter is never going to unload all of the torque like that.
The highest I've ever ran was a 13 to 60. With the weight of a kart vise mini bike, even that would be too high. I imagine the converter is never going to unload all of the torque like that.
The greatest, most sticky worthy thread in OldMiniBikes history is right here.... Mixing TAV springs and just happens to be on this subject.
:anon.sml:
:anon.sml:
The reason I pointed you to the thread is it shows how the various springs (and weights) interact with each other. As far as fixing your problem, you never really said what your problem is. If you put stiffer springs, or lighter weights in the driver (engine pulley), you will raise the RPM at which the "clutch" engages. If you put stiffer springs in the driven, you will raise the rpm point at which the "gear shift" starts to take place.