Converted points to solid state?
- Thread starter JohnnyTillotson
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The question to ask yourself, since you did the write up on Tecumseh timing here, is "can you adjust the point at which the flywheel magnet passes under the coil to a tolerance of .065 before top dead center?" (Insert applicable timing specification the particular engine requires)
Sure, you can get one to make spark. But I think you know how Tecumseh's feel about being out of time by even .010 inches.
At 14 bucks a pop, everyone would be cutting out their points if it worked.
Sure, you can get one to make spark. But I think you know how Tecumseh's feel about being out of time by even .010 inches.
At 14 bucks a pop, everyone would be cutting out their points if it worked.
You're right, which is why I never bothered attempting to use mine. There are a couple of conversations on this site that discussed this before though, which is where I got the idea about a year ago.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tecumseh-engines/42143-solid-coil-eliminate-tecs.html
There are also a few other people in various forums that have claimed they've done it with success.
I don't claim to be an electronics guy at all, so take this with a grain of salt. I read that there is no need to set the timing with these devices, because it goes by the impulse charge created when the magnet passes the coil. If that's correct, then it should work as long as you don't move the coil from it's original position. However, it seems like the timing would still be crucial and impossible to get exactly right, since there are no moving parts in the mechanism to indicate when it's correct or incorrect. It would really become a trial and error session. If it doesn't fire when it's supposed to, then it'll never run smoothly.
I might dig mine out and run a few tests to see how it goes, and see if I can get it to run correctly, or even get it to run well. It does seem like an awful lot of work though :laugh:
Brian, if you'd care to try one out, I'll send it to you free of charge :thumbsup:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tecumseh-engines/42143-solid-coil-eliminate-tecs.html
There are also a few other people in various forums that have claimed they've done it with success.
I don't claim to be an electronics guy at all, so take this with a grain of salt. I read that there is no need to set the timing with these devices, because it goes by the impulse charge created when the magnet passes the coil. If that's correct, then it should work as long as you don't move the coil from it's original position. However, it seems like the timing would still be crucial and impossible to get exactly right, since there are no moving parts in the mechanism to indicate when it's correct or incorrect. It would really become a trial and error session. If it doesn't fire when it's supposed to, then it'll never run smoothly.
I might dig mine out and run a few tests to see how it goes, and see if I can get it to run correctly, or even get it to run well. It does seem like an awful lot of work though :laugh:
Brian, if you'd care to try one out, I'll send it to you free of charge :thumbsup:
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I think there were differant modules for 2/4 stroke engines under the atom brand name. a lighting coil flywheel wont work. supposedly, you just switch out the points and go...I wonder though, the timing should be marked on the flywheel and double checked with a timing light since the trigger point could be differant than points.
I tried one years ago and it didnt work, timing was so far off, not enough adjustment to bring it in. I may have had the wrong one.
I tried one years ago and it didnt work, timing was so far off, not enough adjustment to bring it in. I may have had the wrong one.
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I think so. I thought about this before when the subject came up and this is what I think would have to happen:
For this to work with the old Tecs, you'd have to degree the flywheel to whatever the BTDC spec is for that particular engine, and set up an index and pointer.
Then you'd have to fabricate a magneto mount on slots with enough movement to time it, if the original slots are not adequate. (Since you aren't indexing points, but using pre-set magnet to magneto relationship)
Then you'd have to start the engine with the cover removed, and using a timing light, move the magneto one way or the other to get it in time. Tecs just don't fire on TDC.
Another option would be to degree it and determine EXACTLY when the coil sees EMF via the magnet. Then install an offset key to achieve the proper timing.
For this to work with the old Tecs, you'd have to degree the flywheel to whatever the BTDC spec is for that particular engine, and set up an index and pointer.
Then you'd have to fabricate a magneto mount on slots with enough movement to time it, if the original slots are not adequate. (Since you aren't indexing points, but using pre-set magnet to magneto relationship)
Then you'd have to start the engine with the cover removed, and using a timing light, move the magneto one way or the other to get it in time. Tecs just don't fire on TDC.
Another option would be to degree it and determine EXACTLY when the coil sees EMF via the magnet. Then install an offset key to achieve the proper timing.
i think ill keep my troublesome points and condensors........
atom, Universal Solid State Ignition Module Atom Green 205 for Briggs Stratton | eBay
Computer Ignition for Small Engines Atom Module Green | eBay
atom, Universal Solid State Ignition Module Atom Green 205 for Briggs Stratton | eBay
Computer Ignition for Small Engines Atom Module Green | eBay
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Here is a link for small engine. Someone else may have already posted.
Small Engine Fuel Injection Kit - Small Engine EFI conversion kit
Small Engine Fuel Injection Kit - Small Engine EFI conversion kit
I have a Tecumseh electronic ignition from a late model H35 powersport but I'm uncertain of fitment or compatibility with even an older H35. Sure would be nice to be able to install a solid state on one to have to keep from doing all that's required to get to the ignition parts on Tecumsehs. I do not have any little Tecumseh engines to try it on.
He'd have to be to confuse an HS35 with an H35, and spray paint an engine without taping anything off. Because seriously, I'm about burned out with discussions on how someone is going to measure peak coil inductance down to thousandths of an inch of piston travel in the bore.
And maybe his version of "running good" is as accurate as his pre-paint prep, tape-out, or confusion between the rare HS35 motor and the more common HS40, or H35 motor. I experimented on acceptable parameters of time, and found that once you are plus, or minus .005 (advance, or retard) these engines start to lack power under load. When you get into the plus or minus .010 inch variance, you start shearing keys, and can't get them to accelerate very well off of idle.
I have an experimental version of a Stellar stand I made and didn't use. It's a welded on type of short stand to a bit of tubing that wraps around the frame. You can't really see that tubing, but it does rest on the bottom frame. It uses the single bolt that Stellar used. It works better than a couple of 2X4's, and almost as good as leaning it against the garage door. Yours if you want it.
And maybe his version of "running good" is as accurate as his pre-paint prep, tape-out, or confusion between the rare HS35 motor and the more common HS40, or H35 motor. I experimented on acceptable parameters of time, and found that once you are plus, or minus .005 (advance, or retard) these engines start to lack power under load. When you get into the plus or minus .010 inch variance, you start shearing keys, and can't get them to accelerate very well off of idle.
I have an experimental version of a Stellar stand I made and didn't use. It's a welded on type of short stand to a bit of tubing that wraps around the frame. You can't really see that tubing, but it does rest on the bottom frame. It uses the single bolt that Stellar used. It works better than a couple of 2X4's, and almost as good as leaning it against the garage door. Yours if you want it.