COPPER Homemade exhaust pipe?
- Thread starter machinebike
- Start date
- Tags copper exhaust homemade pipe?
machine the problem is the heat you want it gone not absorbed ,if its absorbed it will sit and be say 600 degrees just a guess there it has a big amount of hot metal to cool where on one layer its less heat . it would be a surface to mass thing the more mass the more the heat could hang around.
what i did on mine was put in small sheet metal screws .
i have never heard of this. if copper work hardens and cracks by heat cycles then how would it be able to be used in head gaskets? i know brass will crack over time but brass is not as soft as copper ,but that also depends on what mix of brass some is soft and some is hard . i dont think brass would be a good idea to use on a exhaust . the corrosive factor would be messy , also there is the zinc in it. it could burn off and the you could have heavy metal poison in your exhaust. if you had a steel liner in the brass then the brass wouldnt be exposed to the flame . but if you had a steel linner then you wouldnt need the brass
what i did on mine was put in small sheet metal screws .
i have never heard of this. if copper work hardens and cracks by heat cycles then how would it be able to be used in head gaskets? i know brass will crack over time but brass is not as soft as copper ,but that also depends on what mix of brass some is soft and some is hard . i dont think brass would be a good idea to use on a exhaust . the corrosive factor would be messy , also there is the zinc in it. it could burn off and the you could have heavy metal poison in your exhaust. if you had a steel liner in the brass then the brass wouldnt be exposed to the flame . but if you had a steel linner then you wouldnt need the brass
milo raptors as for quenching copper makes it even softer . not so from what i was told by a copper smith who has been pounding on the stuff for 35+years . to get dead copper ,or full annealed heat full red heat and let it cool . i would think in head gaskets you would want as soft as possible so it could form in to the head .as for the coating i have no idea what that would be. maybe a anticorrosive ?
Originally Posted by metal man View Post
milo raptors as for quenching copper makes it even softer . not so from what i was told by a copper smith who has been pounding on the stuff for 35+years . to get dead copper ,or full annealed heat full red heat and let it cool . i would think in head gaskets you would want as soft as possible so it could form in to the head .as for the coating i have no idea what that would be. maybe a anticorrosive ?
ok ummm . you said that quenching copper would make it softer , no that would make it keep some of its hardness . i was talking to a copper smith . a copper smith is someone who makes things out of copper ,tea pots, spoons bowls ,by hitting it with a hammer and other tools . dead copper ,full annealed , is the softest the metal will go in a heat treat think like play dough .
in head gaskets made out of metal you would need the metal to be as soft as possible to flow and fill in the milling marks .
then you had said that there coated i was guessing that the coating maybe a anticorrosive compound that would keep the copper from corroding . like rusting
milo raptors as for quenching copper makes it even softer . not so from what i was told by a copper smith who has been pounding on the stuff for 35+years . to get dead copper ,or full annealed heat full red heat and let it cool . i would think in head gaskets you would want as soft as possible so it could form in to the head .as for the coating i have no idea what that would be. maybe a anticorrosive ?
ok ummm . you said that quenching copper would make it softer , no that would make it keep some of its hardness . i was talking to a copper smith . a copper smith is someone who makes things out of copper ,tea pots, spoons bowls ,by hitting it with a hammer and other tools . dead copper ,full annealed , is the softest the metal will go in a heat treat think like play dough .
in head gaskets made out of metal you would need the metal to be as soft as possible to flow and fill in the milling marks .
then you had said that there coated i was guessing that the coating maybe a anticorrosive compound that would keep the copper from corroding . like rusting
I think your biggest problem is going to be the vibration to the copper pipe. I,m a commercial HVAC-R guy and and a small engine vibrate a lot and on large compressor or we run vibration eliminator on both lines to the compressors. I have found copper lines that have crack from vibration. The pipe we use in HVAC work is thicker than water line pipe you buy at Home depot. So keep that in mind when using copper pipe it not going to be a long life header,And you will need to braze and support the pipe for it to work. But if your on a budget you can try it out and see for your self if it works, Good luck.
Hi. I have been keeping an eye on the net for a number of years concerning copper exhaust pipes. Yours is the first mention I have seen. In 1965 I owned a '61 Triumph Thunderbird on which I had an accident! Both downpipes had to be replaced and seeing as this was in East Africa, spares were hard to come by and very expensive. My father had a garage and he got a set of copper downpipes made, brazed and chromeplated. They were the sweetest pipes I have ever seen or heard on a bike! They didn't discolour clse to the head lke steel pipes, they didn't rust, they cooled off quickly and I sometimes used 110 octane aero fuel , which ran HOT. I never had any problems with them during the 2 years I had the bike and as I said, they had a sound all of their own. Copper is easy to work, I am amazed it isn't used for exhausts unless there is some toxic reason. I say, go for it, you will love them!
deeple47
deeple47
