EK Chain and CS Chopper
You are testing my skills by asking for a picture. LOL. Hopefully it works.
I learned a few things yesterday. While I don't think it was designed with this intention, there is some "adjustment" capability when you tighten the rear sissy bar and the rear axle bolt. In fact, when you install the seat you have to loosen the rear axle in order to align the rear seat mount holes on the sissy bar with the seat itself. That then dictates the "verticality" of the sissy bar which dictates the position of the axle which dictates the chain. So, yesterday, after I fitted a std #35 half link to the EK chain (only a little shaving of the EK link using a dremel) and installing the chain I decided to install the seat. That brought to my attention that I had to loosen the rear axle to align the holes of the seat with the sissy bar. And once I did that, I realized that I had some adjustment in the chain. Once I installed the seat and then tightened the rear axle which secures the sissy bar I lucked out with the right amount of chain tension. So, in the end, I did need a half-link.
Once I get the forks back from chroming I will be just about done with the bike. The bike came to me in a box as a frame, wheels and some parts....and without an engine. I thought about painting it Bonanza orange but decided to make the bike a bit more classy with the silver powder coat and added some pops of red and chrome. Chad from OldMiniBikes provided the vintage HS40. I taped off the original Tecumseh engine sticker to retain it during the painting process since I thought it may look good on the bike.
Thanks for the help.
Tom
You are testing my skills by asking for a picture. LOL. Hopefully it works.
I learned a few things yesterday. While I don't think it was designed with this intention, there is some "adjustment" capability when you tighten the rear sissy bar and the rear axle bolt. In fact, when you install the seat you have to loosen the rear axle in order to align the rear seat mount holes on the sissy bar with the seat itself. That then dictates the "verticality" of the sissy bar which dictates the position of the axle which dictates the chain. So, yesterday, after I fitted a std #35 half link to the EK chain (only a little shaving of the EK link using a dremel) and installing the chain I decided to install the seat. That brought to my attention that I had to loosen the rear axle to align the holes of the seat with the sissy bar. And once I did that, I realized that I had some adjustment in the chain. Once I installed the seat and then tightened the rear axle which secures the sissy bar I lucked out with the right amount of chain tension. So, in the end, I did need a half-link.
Once I get the forks back from chroming I will be just about done with the bike. The bike came to me in a box as a frame, wheels and some parts....and without an engine. I thought about painting it Bonanza orange but decided to make the bike a bit more classy with the silver powder coat and added some pops of red and chrome. Chad from OldMiniBikes provided the vintage HS40. I taped off the original Tecumseh engine sticker to retain it during the painting process since I thought it may look good on the bike.
Thanks for the help.
Tom
You must have lowers for the non jacksaft/different engine plate version chopper ( I am assuming they were the first versions :shrug
The Jackshaft version bike I am trying to piece back together right now the lowers match the axle holes. You could trace that out from the other side and then drill them open to get the adjustments, The lowers need to say pretty much in one spot due to the seat mount up.
I think the non jackshaft was early as they usually show with universal tire on the back and the others have the Knobby back tire, and my tires (back one was a knobby) were date coded 11/1969 and 2/1970 so my bike should be a 1970.
The Jackshaft version bike I am trying to piece back together right now the lowers match the axle holes. You could trace that out from the other side and then drill them open to get the adjustments, The lowers need to say pretty much in one spot due to the seat mount up. 
I think the non jackshaft was early as they usually show with universal tire on the back and the others have the Knobby back tire, and my tires (back one was a knobby) were date coded 11/1969 and 2/1970 so my bike should be a 1970.
What I like about this hobby is there is always something to learn.
The sissy bar that came with the bike had the slot. But the springs were frozen and the condition would have required chroming. I bought the current bar that separates as it should and didn't need chroming. I sent the original one to a fellow forum member who is more capable than I am and is also putting a chopper together.
Thanks Markus.
The sissy bar that came with the bike had the slot. But the springs were frozen and the condition would have required chroming. I bought the current bar that separates as it should and didn't need chroming. I sent the original one to a fellow forum member who is more capable than I am and is also putting a chopper together.
Thanks Markus.
Its something I just learned myself only having this bike about a week or so now. I never noticed that there were 2 different engine plates used or that the other was fixed at the rear etc till I was doing a little research. At first glance you would just think they deleted the jack shaft plates only because they weren't needed, not that everything was so different. Surprisingly the lower sections and springs appear to be zinced not chrome which is why mine in the pic are so dark and dry looking after a some soaking in my degreaser tank. Not sure what I will do there yet, my friend is setting up to zinc parts right now so maybe some of these parts will be guinea pigs, Hes got some of my kickstand parts right now and experimenting a little.
If you do decide to slot them there is also a little bit of a notch cut out of the front edge of that plate too, that is there for the nut to clear on the eyebolt adjuster that would then be needed. Bike looks cool BTW :thumbsup:
If you do decide to slot them there is also a little bit of a notch cut out of the front edge of that plate too, that is there for the nut to clear on the eyebolt adjuster that would then be needed. Bike looks cool BTW :thumbsup:
I went through all this a couple months or so ago. I found out some of the differences on a cr400 I did. I had an extra cr400 sissy bar that I sold a friend that had a cr500, OOPs. LOL He let me know all about it. First one I done so I didnt know at the time. So He re-sold it on ebay and got his money back. He told me there was a few differences.
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George,
Your CR400 bar is probably on my bike! Wouldn't that be something! My original was oxidized to the point I couldn't tell if it was originally chrome, and when I got the cr400 in the mail I got to thinking that they originally were plated. Markus made note of that above. See lots of chromed rear springs and lower bars on restored bikes and I thought that was how they were built until I got the cs400 bar. Save some bucks in chroming costs too! My front fork assembly is out for chroming and it costs as much as I paid for the bike originally.
Tom
Your CR400 bar is probably on my bike! Wouldn't that be something! My original was oxidized to the point I couldn't tell if it was originally chrome, and when I got the cr400 in the mail I got to thinking that they originally were plated. Markus made note of that above. See lots of chromed rear springs and lower bars on restored bikes and I thought that was how they were built until I got the cs400 bar. Save some bucks in chroming costs too! My front fork assembly is out for chroming and it costs as much as I paid for the bike originally.
Tom
bonanza chopper sissy bar difference
just about everything is different except for the springs, cups,lowers,width of the tops,seat bracket is welded in a diff. spot.yup briggs666 learnt the hard way. hes has a 500 chopper with original sissy bar its not perfect. im his mini bike partner in crime and sold you that bar, on ebay.i figured you knew the differences because you never asked a question about it. and i needed them gone. sorry about that . we blame George3 .... :thumbsup:... sorry...
someone is repoping these on ebay just recently posted them hes got both of the bottoms but dont know if he has the tops for both of them too ... he does not sell the springs from what i saw .
just about everything is different except for the springs, cups,lowers,width of the tops,seat bracket is welded in a diff. spot.yup briggs666 learnt the hard way. hes has a 500 chopper with original sissy bar its not perfect. im his mini bike partner in crime and sold you that bar, on ebay.i figured you knew the differences because you never asked a question about it. and i needed them gone. sorry about that . we blame George3 .... :thumbsup:... sorry...
someone is repoping these on ebay just recently posted them hes got both of the bottoms but dont know if he has the tops for both of them too ... he does not sell the springs from what i saw .
No need to be sorry. I am having a ball working on putting the Chopper together. It's the one bike I am taking a couple of liberties on in terms of being a totally correct restoration, if there is such a thing. If a cs500 bar turns up I may go for it and swap it out. But for now, I have the seat installed and I think it all looks pretty good. And yes.....I would bet my clutch cover is for the non-JS versions but it's original and nicely rechromed.
Thanks George. Once I get the forks installed in a couple of weeks I'll post a picture. Thanks for the compliment. This one actually looks better in person than the picture as the powder coat has some metallic and the clear adds a nice shine. Found a guy for $150 and he did a nice job. But it was hard for him to fit such a small job in and took too long with too many phone calls. For my MB1210 I got a quote closer to home..... at $425!! So, from my other thread, I am using Chevy Engine Orange and doing it myself. Almost done and it is coming out very nice. The engine paint has ceramic and seems to be scratch and chip resistant. Primed, sanded, primed, sanded, sealed and then multiple coats of the orange. The paint reacts well to sanding where needed before another orange coat. Its easy to tell when the paint is right as its finishes deep, smooth and glossy. Almost looks like its been cleared.
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