what i was trying to get at is because i have almost a 100 pounds on BidRob should i be looking at a higher ratio than 6:1 even with the Converter? 8:1? living in the middle of Canada in a smaller city doesnt get me easy access to just pick adifferent engine or axle sprocket. my biggest fear is building this thing and then not having the gearing for it to move my heavy ass. im trying to give this 8 hp briggs a fighting chance in hauling me around....
Hard to see but it uses the drive and driven , through a jackshaft to the rear sprocket
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/00025420-00001.png
If your not worried about top speed then go with low gearing , the 8 to 1 ratio should give you enough power to pull stumps and with the torque converter you will still have enough top end to get places
The old totegoate and trailscooters were geared really low so were like 12 to 1 and they were perfect for hunters and sportsmen
The old totegoate and trailscooters were geared really low so were like 12 to 1 and they were perfect for hunters and sportsmen
Standard 44 driver to a 6" driven on a worm drive at 10:1. 6HP and I could power up any hill, and hit nearly 30 (guess) on a heavy Tote Gote.
This dude needs to ascertain what type of drive system, then worry about ratio. Looking at that driven, it's rusted. Repair a 40 system, or just buy a replacement 20, or 30. That is the question.
If I were rebuilding the entire ass-end of a bike, I'd go with a swing arm. Just because it' the right thing to do. :laugh:
This dude needs to ascertain what type of drive system, then worry about ratio. Looking at that driven, it's rusted. Repair a 40 system, or just buy a replacement 20, or 30. That is the question.
If I were rebuilding the entire ass-end of a bike, I'd go with a swing arm. Just because it' the right thing to do. :laugh:
The 40 Series drive and driven on the original trike certainly needs some TLC but I do plan on doing what i can to clean it up (replace/rebuild as needed)and reuse it. the narrowing of the ass end of the bike may not happen as i may need all the width between the rails to stuff the tire and sprocket and brakes (im going to try and use both band brakes that are currently on the trike frame) in there. And as for lengthening all that needs lengthening is the frame piece that has the hitch mount on it. in looking at things a little closer there isnt going to be nearly as much cutting on the ass end as i thought there would be.
in the end, the frame will be very similar to the one in capguncowboy's pics on the first page of this thread. without the lengthened forks.
in the end, the frame will be very similar to the one in capguncowboy's pics on the first page of this thread. without the lengthened forks.
:thumbsup: I agree with keeping as much width as you can. Looking again at what you're working with, I'd be tempted to keep the rear of the frame like it is. Then use another live axle set up, only with a single rear wheel. That will allow you to move the sprocket and brakes anywhere along the shaft you need it for alignment purposes. (Cut off the uglies for sure) It's a simple way to do it. It looks like the jack shaft mounts are all there.
Once you get it all set up, jack shaft sprockets are cheap and you'll be able to easily adjust sizes once you get the clutches and overall drive system sorted. (then work on ratios you need)
I'd be tempted to restore that as a three wheeler if that first pic is of your bike. Not a lot of those around.
Once you get it all set up, jack shaft sprockets are cheap and you'll be able to easily adjust sizes once you get the clutches and overall drive system sorted. (then work on ratios you need)
I'd be tempted to restore that as a three wheeler if that first pic is of your bike. Not a lot of those around.
Ya, those are actual pics of my trike. Restoring is not really an option, im not willing to throw the kinda money at this thing that it would take to restore it.
i cant leave the rear end as is. there isnt enough length to fit the tire in. have a look at the pics i attached. i want to leave the axle in its current location but to do that i have to lengthen the section inside the yellow box. Pic 1 shows pretty well how the tire will not fit as things are right now. once i lengthen that section and get the rear wheel stuffed inside the rails i will then be able to tell if im going to have to relocate the driven/jackshaft mount (pictured in the red square), hopefully not.
i cant leave the rear end as is. there isnt enough length to fit the tire in. have a look at the pics i attached. i want to leave the axle in its current location but to do that i have to lengthen the section inside the yellow box. Pic 1 shows pretty well how the tire will not fit as things are right now. once i lengthen that section and get the rear wheel stuffed inside the rails i will then be able to tell if im going to have to relocate the driven/jackshaft mount (pictured in the red square), hopefully not.
Attachments
Ok guys I’m not trying to beat a dead horse here, I just want to simply understand how this works…..
So this 40 series driver/driven combo I have tells me the low speed ratio is 2.43:1. If I have attached to it a 8 tooth sprocket to a 60 tooth am I essentially getting a 18.18:1 off the line? 60/(8/2.43). And 7.5:1 at top speed? Or am I not understanding how this works?
As a follow up to the above, can a ratio get so exaggerated that the power isn’t enough to get a bike and rider moving?
So this 40 series driver/driven combo I have tells me the low speed ratio is 2.43:1. If I have attached to it a 8 tooth sprocket to a 60 tooth am I essentially getting a 18.18:1 off the line? 60/(8/2.43). And 7.5:1 at top speed? Or am I not understanding how this works?
As a follow up to the above, can a ratio get so exaggerated that the power isn’t enough to get a bike and rider moving?