GX200 Clone question

bandit 40

Active Member
#23
thanks !!!!!!! stang, you sound like you really know your stuff , what about these lash caps i got with the stainless valves and retainer kit, do they just sit on the top of the valve, and the rocker holds them in place, and each valve gets a lash cap, correct
 
#24
Yeah Stang, you rock!! great chart, i'm gonna hang it on the wall of the shop, what else do you think that I need to know before I start assembly? I'm sure that you have answers to questions that I haven't even thought of yet... does that make sense?? I think that I may be going crazy :eek:ut: Anyway thanks for all the help.
 
#25
thanks !!!!!!! stang, you sound like you really know your stuff , what about these lash caps i got with the stainless valves and retainer kit, do they just sit on the top of the valve, and the rocker holds them in place, and each valve gets a lash cap, correct
yup, they just sit over the valve tip, I run them on both my stainless valves.

I'm not that great, just read a lot of 4cycle and play with a gx200 clone and 390 half breed lol. So needless to say It's just easier to find information when your well informed :) I've spent some time talking with Russell also at NR.
 
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bandit 40

Active Member
#27
Hey !! newage if it helps any . but when i ordered my lash caps from affordablegokart IT said quote:
These lash caps must be used with our stainless steel valves. We also recommend using lash caps with stock valves so the rocker arm has more surface area and to prevent side loading the valve. Lash caps are sold in pairs.:thumbsup:
 
#28
Ahhh, I already purchased them but then I was told that they are only used with stainless valves, I guess that I'll be able to use them afterall.
Thanks Bandit :thumbsup:
 

bandit 40

Active Member
#29
No problem Newage Im glad i could be of some help, these clones, well even the newer hondas are all new to me . but like stang said , just reading these great forums and all these amazing pics, really give some great ideas, I will be assembling my clone soon, and will be posting pics of the mini as well, which i am still unable to identify .I know its and old one take care all, you are all very helpfull thanks again:smile::smile::smile::smile:
 
#30
Hey Newage,

I just got done building a similar motor as yours.
GX200 Clone
Billet Rod w/ bearing
Flat Top Piston
Aluminum Flywheel
1.2 Rockers
Moly push rods
modified guide plate
Stock camshaft
Stainless Valves, Retainers, Keepers & Lash Caps
Ported & polished head milled 65 thousanths
Governor removed
Low Oil Sensor removed
AGK Manifold w/ pulse
22mm Mikuni
Uni Filter
etc, etc..

I just wanted to tell you to make sure to but some white lithium greese between the valve stem & lash caps metal on metal is never good :^)
 
#31
BTW, NR-racing.com has the flat top standard bore pistons on sale for $18. Pretty good price if your looking for one. Always good to add a little compression ;)
 
#33
Thanks nostrix, I appreciate all the advice that I can get :thumbsup:
No problem sir, anytime. Not sure if you went this far with your engine or not, but when I had the head milled, I ended up with a slight geometry issue with the rocker / push rod assembly. Being that the head was milled so much my push rods ended up being slightly to long. My solution to this was to place a couple 1mm thick metric washers underneath the actual rocker studs to shim the rockers back to their factory location.

This ended up helping me out because I decided to install 18lb valve springs with 1.2 ratio rockers which that set up is more likely to coil bind, then the 26lb springs as reccommended by AGK. So by me being able to lift the rocker assembly back into normal position I was able to maintain a safe tolerance pertaining to coil bind issues.
 
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#34
I am working on my final gearing and it would help if I could identify what my rpm max would be for my engine configuration:

22mm Mikuni
two stage pipe with Supertrapp IDS
no governor
ARC rod & flat top piston
1.2 rockers and 18lb springs
ARC flywheel with 6* advance

Everything else being stock, what kinda peak rpm am I lookin at.
 
#35
MDB should be able to give you a good idea of what this thing will rev too. My guess would be somewhere in the 6000-6500rpm range with the 18lb springs... But these OHV motors make huge torque down low. I know MDB made a post awhile back about gearing on these motors. If you search his post you'll find it. I beleive he states to gear these things fairly low more for top end speed because of the amount of torque being produced.
 
#36
Thanks Nostrix, yeah, my guess was around 6000 but when I crunched the numbers I noticed that 500 rpm +/- made a big enough difference that I felt that I should run it by the forum first for feedback.
 
#38
Don't give out some general advice that may or may not be correct.

The Dyno Cam cam is .265 lift * 1.2 rockers is going to give you .318 lift which will more then likely coil bind 18lb springs.

If you're using the Dyno Cam with stock rockers 18lb springs should be fine.

Stock Cam lift can vary by whoever manufactures the engine, so measure the lift multiply it by 1.2 and see what you get, its pretty straight forward. Even doing the math formula is an approximation and should just be measured to be sure, like previously stated.
Hey guys,

I just wanted to make sure to pass this info along. I'm not sure which of the suppliers sights I read this on. But I do know that the rockers being sold as 1.2 actually measure out to be closer to 1.3 so when using Stangs mathmatical formula for valve lift make sure to multiply by 1.3 to get the most accurate figures... I'll try to locate the information I read about this again & post it up for everyone to take a look at.
 
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