Max torque clutch install question

#1
I will be upgrading the doodlebug 2.8 with a new predator 6.5

I purchased a max torque clutch as suggested by one of the guys here.
I'll be running the clutch with the gear inboard towards the engine case.
My problem with it now is that the output shaft sticks out farther then the clutch itself. so putting on the 5/16-24 bolt and washer would do nothing.

Do i just need to make or get a spacer and put it behind the clutch? The key I will cut down.

I tried to find this in a search and really didn't get my answer.

here is a pic of what I'm talking about.

and thank you to any and all answers.
 
#5
Awesome. Thank you once again OldMiniBikes bro's. I work in a machine shop so I can have one whipped up no problem. Just wasn't sure if the spacer route was correct. My son is gonna shit his pants went he rides this thing with twice the power as stock! LOL
 

george3

Active Member
#6
Awesome. Thank you once again OldMiniBikes bro's. I work in a machine shop so I can have one whipped up no problem. Just wasn't sure if the spacer route was correct. My son is gonna shit his pants went he rides this thing with twice the power as stock! LOL
Use a thick washer. Buy him a helmet.
 
#8
I would read this before you add a spacer. It makes perfect sense and works flawlessly. Dont worry about the section on cutting down washers to create more shaft length. Your HF shaft is already long enough to allow for float.

Clutches
 
#9
I would read this before you add a spacer. It makes perfect sense and works flawlessly. Dont worry about the section on cutting down washers to create more shaft length. Your HF shaft is already long enough to allow for float.

Clutches
ok, i read it an it does make sense. Right now, if I was to just put the bolt and big washer on the end of the output shaft, I'd have wayyyy to much float. Agreed?

So I will still need to put a spacer behind the clutch, but just make sure that I have .035" of the shaft sticking out. This way the washer sits flat on the face of the output shaft, and not the face of the clutch. Correct? Do you agree?

The only reason I would need the small spacer washers is to "extend" the shaft.

please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
#14
Looking like you have a good ideal of what's going on from your posts. Just making sure.

Thanks. 1 other question. On the clutch, there is (2) threaded holes, One set screw would go in to lock the key way in place. Correct?

And the other one, I would not use. Correct? Meaning, I do not lock the clutch down to the output shaft with the 2nd set screw, or this would defeat the purpose of letting it float. Correct?

Sry if redundant, I used to be one of Jerry's kids back in the days of the telethon…..LOL :smile:

BTW, I ordered a bolt and washer kit.
 
#15
I don't use either set screw. And if you ever tighten a set screw down on a shaft you done boogered it up. Hard to remove the clutch, need to file/sand the burr before a reinstall. The key is trapped and can't go anywhere
 
#16
I don't use either set screw. And if you ever tighten a set screw down on a shaft you done boogered it up. Hard to remove the clutch, need to file/sand the burr before a reinstall. The key is trapped and can't go anywhere
perfect! Got it now. Just had to make sure. Why the hell do they tap the clutch for a set screw then??

Anyway, ordered up a bolt/washer kit.

thanks for the help. :thumbsup:
 
#17
ok, got the spacer made up. Fits nice.

Also, I have a nice .035" of shaft protruding. I just need to cut my key down a lil bit and install washer and bolt.
 
#20
put the clutch spacer on the front. All set with that now. Thx for the tip.

Installed billet motor plate today. !0 min install. This makes things very nice.
Also thx for the tip on buying one of these.
 
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