Thanks everyone, I've been making steady progress, but I have a couple questions. The engine is a Dupor from Arc Racing, I think (craigslist). There is a breather hole in the valve cover, but no hose, pcv, or anything else to plug it with. What do other people do to address this?
Also, what the heck do others do with the HUGE air filter that sticks out like 6 inches? It is totally going to get torn off.
Also, what the heck do others do with the HUGE air filter that sticks out like 6 inches? It is totally going to get torn off.
On a stock harbor freight engine, there is a rubber hose that goes between that breather hole and connects to the air cleaner.
Not sure what to do with that big old air cleaner. I hate them big ol things.
Wait, with keeping the utility theme, you might be able to use a piece of car heater hose and route it upwards with the air cleaner on that?
Not sure what to do with that big old air cleaner. I hate them big ol things.
Wait, with keeping the utility theme, you might be able to use a piece of car heater hose and route it upwards with the air cleaner on that?
Thanks guys. Everyone's support has really helped keep me motivated.
I definitely want a light on this thing, but I'm not sure what my best option is with no charging system. I really wish I could find a battery powered headlight that is about the right size and looks right. There are a ton of them on Ebay, Amazon, etc, but they are either too small, or chinese crap that rattles apart even on a bicycle.
The other option is to get an automotive style led light and wire in a battery and switch. I would really like to avoid the extra clutter of this setup even though it will likely have the best performance. The led lights on my big bike are crazy bright and were pretty inexpensive, and I have a couple Cabelas 12v batteries. How long do yall think the battery would last running one of these lights?
I definitely want a light on this thing, but I'm not sure what my best option is with no charging system. I really wish I could find a battery powered headlight that is about the right size and looks right. There are a ton of them on Ebay, Amazon, etc, but they are either too small, or chinese crap that rattles apart even on a bicycle.
The other option is to get an automotive style led light and wire in a battery and switch. I would really like to avoid the extra clutter of this setup even though it will likely have the best performance. The led lights on my big bike are crazy bright and were pretty inexpensive, and I have a couple Cabelas 12v batteries. How long do yall think the battery would last running one of these lights?
As you can see in the vid, she is a little light up front..... actually it will pull a wheelie at like 20mph, so something needs to be done to make it easier for a moron like me to ride. I already ordered a thumb throttle; it has almost gotten away from me a couple times because of the twist throttle. No matter how much you feather it, it is like an on/off switch.
Also I think I am going to convert the rear to tandem wheels to make an inline 3x3. This will make room for a cargo rack and a passanger seat, but most importantly it will lengthen the wheelbase to make it more stable.
Also I think I am going to convert the rear to tandem wheels to make an inline 3x3. This will make room for a cargo rack and a passanger seat, but most importantly it will lengthen the wheelbase to make it more stable.
wheelie is probably from the short wheel base and tons of power from that motor/torque converter. i was wondering if the bike would handle different if the gear ratio was little different from the front to the rear. i believe some older 4x4 trucks where set up like this. really don't know if that would help or hinder it. maybe some 4x4 guys can chime in......
also can you determine yet if your lock out unit is holding up ok....:thumbsup:
also can you determine yet if your lock out unit is holding up ok....:thumbsup:
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Ok guys, I have had this crazy idea in my head for a while now and I can't seem to shake it..... so I'll probably have to build it, if it's feasible :grind:.
I want a single track trailer for my mini with a matching wheel and tire, but I want the wheel driven. So after I do the tandem rear wheels, the trailer would make it an inline 4x4 :doah:. There isn't really any way to do an overrunning clutch on a trailer, so the wheel speeds have to match each other to avoid quirky handling. The only way to do this (in my mind at least) is to have the distance from the bikes rear axle to the trailer pivot the same as the pivot to the trailer axle. This should, in theory, keep the trailer tire exactly following in the track of the bikes rear tire(s). The plan is to run a chain from the rear tandem wheel pivot shaft to the trailer pivot, through a u joint, and another chain from there to the trailer wheel.
So, cool or stupid?
I want a single track trailer for my mini with a matching wheel and tire, but I want the wheel driven. So after I do the tandem rear wheels, the trailer would make it an inline 4x4 :doah:. There isn't really any way to do an overrunning clutch on a trailer, so the wheel speeds have to match each other to avoid quirky handling. The only way to do this (in my mind at least) is to have the distance from the bikes rear axle to the trailer pivot the same as the pivot to the trailer axle. This should, in theory, keep the trailer tire exactly following in the track of the bikes rear tire(s). The plan is to run a chain from the rear tandem wheel pivot shaft to the trailer pivot, through a u joint, and another chain from there to the trailer wheel.
So, cool or stupid?
That is a complicated answer. If the tires front and rear are the same size you want the gearing front and back the same. Otherwise one end will push/pull the other. On trucks when that happens it's not unheard of the front/rearend "blowing up". Just running a spare tire that is smaller on one end can do it, I've seen it. On the "older" ones you might have seen that on they figure out the math to change the gear ratios with the tire diameter to make the overall ratio equal front and back. Most of the time on a 4x4 you want matching tire diameter and gear ratio front and rear so it is odd to see but I know swamp buggies (the front tires just rudders as they are designed to float the nose) and tractor pullers (where even the 4x4 ones the front tends to end up in the air) do this.
Clear as mud? I know I suck at explaining things, esp laying here in a hospital bed hopped up.
Clear as mud? I know I suck at explaining things, esp laying here in a hospital bed hopped up.
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