painting and decals

#1
I have been experimenting with dif. paints and have had little luck in finding a spray can paint that can withstand gas! I have tried both Duplicolor high heat paint from O’Reilly and Rustolum engine paint from Lowes and found that when I painted my totally stripped and cleaned up engines the first time I spilled gas on the tank it dissolved the paint, tis was after the paint cured for over a week. Any suggestions on what to use.
At the same time I am looking for decals for my engines not exact repros but just a simple decal that has the BS logo. found some on ebay but $20 for a set that is a joke. Just the basics like the name and hp decals.
Only making the engine look good not restoring it! Also is it possible to buy a complete choke assy for a Pulse jet carb (have one that that someone removed the choke to "increase air flow").
 
#2
for the tank and shroud you might try duplicolor bed armor if longevity is your primary concern. i can't guarantee it holds up to gas but i think it has the best chance for a rattle can. :shrug:
 
#5
You need to use a hardner ,mixed into the paint,before you spray it.A clear coat and hardner over the color coat is the best way to save the paint.Go talk to a bodyshop about spraying it for you. When done leave sit for acouple weeks to cure out good.You can also wetsand and buff the finish to a show finish this way too. Hpoe this helps Rick
 

Dan-E-boy

Well-Known Member
#6
Two stage automotive paint like chatten63 suggested would be the best bet. But if you want to stick to spray cans I would suggested using primer before the paint. Paint alone doesn't have the "bite"power that primer does. Use 220 grit sand paper before the primer(use wax and grease remover before you primer or at least spend a few minutes washing it down with soap and water).then when the primer dries use 3 to 400 grit to sand the primer down before the paint goes on. Paint can take more of a beating when it can actually hold on to somethin. Hope it helps.:wink:
 
Last edited:
#7
Oldbugger,
Are you using the matching engine PRIMERS prior to using these paints? For best results with "rattlecan" paints you really should for the reasons stated by Dan-E-boy. While there will be other members on this forum that will disagree with me, and state that you do not need to prime, that certainly has not been our experiences.
Also, remember that these engine paint companies claim "oil and gas RESISTANT", not "oil and gas "PROOF".:shrug: No matter how well you prime and paint extended exposure or prolonged wiping on a gas-saturated engine surface WILL remove the paint!:doah:
My son (The Ruppster 86 on this forum) has been painting quite a few engines in the last year. Prior to painting his first engine we tested two of the popular engine paints (Rustoleum and VHT) We also tested Rustoleum "High Heat Ultra" as a member on this very forum had posted that he had used the "aged copper" color to duplicate the original Briggs copper engine color. Overall, based on our basic unscientific "testing" (gas spilling and wiping) I would rank them as follows:
Best (hands down)= VHT (also by far the most $$$)
Next Best= Rustoleum Engine paint
Worst (by far) = Rustoleum High Heat Ultra
We never tested the Duplicolor, so I cannot make any comments. It should be noted that the Rustoleum "High Heat Ultra" is NOT advertised as an "engine paint" and there are no "oil and gas resistant" claims. Quite candidly, we tested it as we had REALLY hoped that it WOULD work as an engine paint as the "aged copper" color is almost a dead-ringer for the classic (and highly desirable) Briggs copper color of back in the day!
One final thing, you state that you are waiting out the 7 day "curing period"- GOOD. As Both VHT and Rustoleum engine paints performed very poorly when gas testing was done after only a day or two. It takes the full 7 days (maybe more?) to develop the maximum resistance.
Hope that this helps you and others.....
Michael
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#8
I just finished that pretty 5 hp briggs using Duplicolor ceramic. Looks grrat now. We'll see once it's used a bit.
 
Top