painting compressors
- Thread starter Oyster Bay Man
- Start date
- Tags compressors painting
This is pretty much what I use >
8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor
I also tied in a 50 gal tank for more capacity when needed, like painting a car.
I'm a bit old school on paint guns > Touch-Up Air Spray Gun
& Siphon Feed Spray Gun
But many use HVLP guns, less waste of paint also. > 120cc High Volume Low Pressure Touch Up Spray Gun
8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor
I also tied in a 50 gal tank for more capacity when needed, like painting a car.
I'm a bit old school on paint guns > Touch-Up Air Spray Gun
& Siphon Feed Spray Gun
But many use HVLP guns, less waste of paint also. > 120cc High Volume Low Pressure Touch Up Spray Gun
My compressor is a contractors portable dual tank type, but a little bigger. Twin cylinder compressor.
My large gun is similar to the siphon one posted above. It is ok.... But I prefer....
I primarily use this one.
My gun is the model previous to this one and has a metal paint cup, but otherwise the same. Holds plenty of paint for a mini and small parts. More than enough. And the HVLP means the compressor can easily keep up with its air demand.
Problem is i have been wasting from mixing too much paint and then it sits and hardens.
Still haven't got that part down yet.
BTW, buying the equipment and paint is easy, getting good at putting down a quality finish is the hard part.
My large gun is similar to the siphon one posted above. It is ok.... But I prefer....
I primarily use this one.
My gun is the model previous to this one and has a metal paint cup, but otherwise the same. Holds plenty of paint for a mini and small parts. More than enough. And the HVLP means the compressor can easily keep up with its air demand.
Problem is i have been wasting from mixing too much paint and then it sits and hardens.
Still haven't got that part down yet.
BTW, buying the equipment and paint is easy, getting good at putting down a quality finish is the hard part.
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Rigid 0F45150. 4.5 gallons, and work find for painting mini bikes, inflating pool toys, light duty. Cheap, and reliable.
Gun is a small HVLP that I got from a friend who had three in a set. It's got a 1.0 tip, 2 oz cup. The most times I had to refill the cup during a job was twice for the Tote Gote.
Don't spend a lot of money unless you have bigger goals in mind than mini bikes. Modern coatings are easy to apply, and once you start doing it, you'll wonder why you didn't start sooner.
Agree with stang- not wasting paint is tricky. Seems you almost never need as much as you mix, and no kidding, the volumes are so small that I use a tablespoon to measure ratios.
Gun is a small HVLP that I got from a friend who had three in a set. It's got a 1.0 tip, 2 oz cup. The most times I had to refill the cup during a job was twice for the Tote Gote.
Don't spend a lot of money unless you have bigger goals in mind than mini bikes. Modern coatings are easy to apply, and once you start doing it, you'll wonder why you didn't start sooner.
Agree with stang- not wasting paint is tricky. Seems you almost never need as much as you mix, and no kidding, the volumes are so small that I use a tablespoon to measure ratios.
Thanks all.
Yeah, Dave...I would like to get a compressor that might be a little versitile. So I will look for one like that. I may not paint may minibikes but with three small kids I would be blowing up a lot of beach toys and what have ya.
Sure would like to try this out though. I hate working with spray cans. I can never seem to find that sweet spot and not drip.
What about primer? Do you guys spray that on or couldn't you use one of those sponge rollers? You can really get some good coverage with one of those. Nice n thick.
Yeah, Dave...I would like to get a compressor that might be a little versitile. So I will look for one like that. I may not paint may minibikes but with three small kids I would be blowing up a lot of beach toys and what have ya.
Sure would like to try this out though. I hate working with spray cans. I can never seem to find that sweet spot and not drip.
What about primer? Do you guys spray that on or couldn't you use one of those sponge rollers? You can really get some good coverage with one of those. Nice n thick.
There are expert/professional painters here, but I am a novice and an amature hobbiest.
What works for me is a chemically stripped frame. I hand sand with 80 grit. Or however else you want to get the frame bare. Smart people sand blast it, but I have more time than money.
I use rattle can etching primer on the bare metal. I do not go thick, not at all, not if you're big, not if you're tall, not even in the Fall. However if your weather is humid, rainy, etc, or you will not paint within the next day or so, go heavier to prevent rust.
Scuff or wet sand the etching prior to prime. Use a rattle can gray sealer, or with your new out fit, a 2K (two part) kit. It's best, and you can color coordinate the base coat to deal with the coverage of your top coat.
Things dry super duper fast here in the desert. Most everyone has to wait 24 hours, or even longer. Cold and damp is your enemy.
When you use two part paint, do not let the stuff setup in your gun. Don't freak on primer for mini bikes. Seriously rattle can is fine. If you start using expensive paints however, you will want the security that 2K primer brings.
Everyone has their own way of doing things, so what I am saying is not the bible. Weather and technique and prepping have more to do with the paint job than anything else. Oh....add drops of forehead sweat into paint as a possible way to add special effects.
And stay away from Nason reds, unless you need crappy coverage. Stay away from all reds if you can help it. $$$$$$
What works for me is a chemically stripped frame. I hand sand with 80 grit. Or however else you want to get the frame bare. Smart people sand blast it, but I have more time than money.
I use rattle can etching primer on the bare metal. I do not go thick, not at all, not if you're big, not if you're tall, not even in the Fall. However if your weather is humid, rainy, etc, or you will not paint within the next day or so, go heavier to prevent rust.
Scuff or wet sand the etching prior to prime. Use a rattle can gray sealer, or with your new out fit, a 2K (two part) kit. It's best, and you can color coordinate the base coat to deal with the coverage of your top coat.
Things dry super duper fast here in the desert. Most everyone has to wait 24 hours, or even longer. Cold and damp is your enemy.
When you use two part paint, do not let the stuff setup in your gun. Don't freak on primer for mini bikes. Seriously rattle can is fine. If you start using expensive paints however, you will want the security that 2K primer brings.
Everyone has their own way of doing things, so what I am saying is not the bible. Weather and technique and prepping have more to do with the paint job than anything else. Oh....add drops of forehead sweat into paint as a possible way to add special effects.
And stay away from Nason reds, unless you need crappy coverage. Stay away from all reds if you can help it. $$$$$$
this is the exact guy I use to paint the mini bikes... I have an 80 gallon 3cyl compressor but I use it to run grinders, sandblaster etc...
Mini HVLP Air Paint Spray Gun+Gauge Regulator & Cup 1.0 mm Nozzle Touch Up Tools
a few bikes I painted with this gun..
Mini HVLP Air Paint Spray Gun+Gauge Regulator & Cup 1.0 mm Nozzle Touch Up Tools
a few bikes I painted with this gun..
this is the exact guy I use to paint the mini bikes... I have an 80 gallon 3cyl compressor but I use it to run grinders, sandblaster etc...
Mini HVLP Air Paint Spray Gun+Gauge Regulator & Cup 1.0 mm Nozzle Touch Up Tools
a few bikes I painted with this gun..
Mini HVLP Air Paint Spray Gun+Gauge Regulator & Cup 1.0 mm Nozzle Touch Up Tools
a few bikes I painted with this gun..
There are expert/professional painters here, but I am a novice and an amature hobbiest.
What works for me is a chemically stripped frame. I hand sand with 80 grit. Or however else you want to get the frame bare. Smart people sand blast it, but I have more time than money.
I use rattle can etching primer on the bare metal. I do not go thick, not at all, not if you're big, not if you're tall, not even in the Fall. However if your weather is humid, rainy, etc, or you will not paint within the next day or so, go heavier to prevent rust.
Scuff or wet sand the etching prior to prime. Use a rattle can gray sealer, or with your new out fit, a 2K (two part) kit. It's best, and you can color coordinate the base coat to deal with the coverage of your top coat.
Things dry super duper fast here in the desert. Most everyone has to wait 24 hours, or even longer. Cold and damp is your enemy.
When you use two part paint, do not let the stuff setup in your gun. Don't freak on primer for mini bikes. Seriously rattle can is fine. If you start using expensive paints however, you will want the security that 2K primer brings.
Everyone has their own way of doing things, so what I am saying is not the bible. Weather and technique and prepping have more to do with the paint job than anything else. Oh....add drops of forehead sweat into paint as a possible way to add special effects.
And stay away from Nason reds, unless you need crappy coverage. Stay away from all reds if you can help it. $$$$$$
What works for me is a chemically stripped frame. I hand sand with 80 grit. Or however else you want to get the frame bare. Smart people sand blast it, but I have more time than money.
I use rattle can etching primer on the bare metal. I do not go thick, not at all, not if you're big, not if you're tall, not even in the Fall. However if your weather is humid, rainy, etc, or you will not paint within the next day or so, go heavier to prevent rust.
Scuff or wet sand the etching prior to prime. Use a rattle can gray sealer, or with your new out fit, a 2K (two part) kit. It's best, and you can color coordinate the base coat to deal with the coverage of your top coat.
Things dry super duper fast here in the desert. Most everyone has to wait 24 hours, or even longer. Cold and damp is your enemy.
When you use two part paint, do not let the stuff setup in your gun. Don't freak on primer for mini bikes. Seriously rattle can is fine. If you start using expensive paints however, you will want the security that 2K primer brings.
Everyone has their own way of doing things, so what I am saying is not the bible. Weather and technique and prepping have more to do with the paint job than anything else. Oh....add drops of forehead sweat into paint as a possible way to add special effects.
And stay away from Nason reds, unless you need crappy coverage. Stay away from all reds if you can help it. $$$$$$
Rattle cans have there place and most started painting that way . Just remember not to mix types of paint . Old style enamels and lacquer paint or primer should not be used with new acrylic urethane . Lifting can occur . Products do not like each other . Check your technical paint reference .
Small compressors have to work to keep up the pressure . Air pressure drops can cause paint variation [modeling in metalic paint] . Also the heat can cause moisture in the air lines . The heat will also make your paint dry faster and not let it flow . This causes large orange peel look . Use a water trap with a pressure regulator . As stated earlier , once you learn how to paint you will love your results . Preparation and clean make the job .
Small compressors have to work to keep up the pressure . Air pressure drops can cause paint variation [modeling in metalic paint] . Also the heat can cause moisture in the air lines . The heat will also make your paint dry faster and not let it flow . This causes large orange peel look . Use a water trap with a pressure regulator . As stated earlier , once you learn how to paint you will love your results . Preparation and clean make the job .
I would make some friends at the local auto paint store, they can provide tech sheets for the system you are using...you can get free mistint paint if your lucky and they aren't dicks.....tell them your restoring old mini bikes and if your lucky, they may have had one when they were a kid and feel real nostalgic and they may even start bawlin'......if they start bawlin', hit them up for the mistint paint. They eventually throw it out anyway.
get on amazon and get a copy of "How to paint your car"...it is one those soft bound magazine books. Lots of good info in there. Don't forget to buy a good pressure regulator/dryer/filter to put in the air line. Use a pressure regulator on the gun and adhere to what the tech sheet tells you.
HVLP stuff requires more volume than most home systems have. There is nothing wrong with syphon guns. touch up guns are good for mini bike painting. Base coat/clear coat is your friend albeit kinda expensive. (not so much if you get the base free.)
get on amazon and get a copy of "How to paint your car"...it is one those soft bound magazine books. Lots of good info in there. Don't forget to buy a good pressure regulator/dryer/filter to put in the air line. Use a pressure regulator on the gun and adhere to what the tech sheet tells you.
HVLP stuff requires more volume than most home systems have. There is nothing wrong with syphon guns. touch up guns are good for mini bike painting. Base coat/clear coat is your friend albeit kinda expensive. (not so much if you get the base free.)
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Good post Rugblaster!
And to add to that, Summit Racing has quality urethane paints and epoxy primers at much lower prices than a paint store. I bought enough paint from Summit to paint 3 cars for what the paint shop wanted to have enough for maybe two bikes. Gallons for the price of quarts from the paint shop.
True, you don't get the same color choices, but the selection is good.
Mistints are good options too as they look great on a mini. Just means the person ordering it was too picky... :laugh:
And to add to that, Summit Racing has quality urethane paints and epoxy primers at much lower prices than a paint store. I bought enough paint from Summit to paint 3 cars for what the paint shop wanted to have enough for maybe two bikes. Gallons for the price of quarts from the paint shop.
True, you don't get the same color choices, but the selection is good.
Mistints are good options too as they look great on a mini. Just means the person ordering it was too picky... :laugh:
I've heard before that an oil lubed compressor is best for pneumatic wrenches, etc. and that a oil free type compressor is best for painting. Also, using a specific type hose for painting vs. tool use is something to consider. Black hose or, red hose, etc. :shrug:
Is that all just myth or is there something factual to the different choices and their intended uses in types of equipment available?
Has anyone heard of that or discussed those considerations before?
Is that all just myth or is there something factual to the different choices and their intended uses in types of equipment available?
Has anyone heard of that or discussed those considerations before?
They were painting stuff a long time before "oil less" compressors were in use, so that is probably a myth. a lot of it has to do with the way air lines and hoses are run in the shop. There are diagrams on the net how this should be done. I use standard Goodyear type air hoses, never had a problem in that regard. I wouldn't think the compressed air knows what color the hose is.:shrug:
I have my air line run high on the shop wall and the line runs downhill from the compressor. I have a Sharpe regulator, filter, water trap assembly 25 feet or so from the compressor at waist level.....and I make sure the water is drained from it at the start of the job. Haven't had a problem so far. :2guns:
I have my air line run high on the shop wall and the line runs downhill from the compressor. I have a Sharpe regulator, filter, water trap assembly 25 feet or so from the compressor at waist level.....and I make sure the water is drained from it at the start of the job. Haven't had a problem so far. :2guns: