Predator 212cc questions

What's the most you've spent on a small engine? (mini bike, go kart, ect)

  • Total voters
    30
K-Saletta

K-Saletta

New Member
#1
#1
Hello my name is Kyle Saletta and i have bunch of questions I would like to ask. I was wondering if on my next engine I should buy a gx200 clone to mod rather than a predator 212cc (old style) which I have now.
Mods:
Top plate
Walbro pump (pulse inlet in valve cover)
Breather (no catch can)
Ajustable ruixing carb (mine was a carb version engine so it was non adjustable)
140 e tube and a lot of jets(I have my engine all apart so i can't tube it now, what do you think is best for my setup?)
Billet rod (std length)
Mod2 cam
Billet flywheel (raceseng)
18lb springs
RLV header and muffler
No govenor
adjustable ignition timing bracket (raceseng)
I think that's all- any suggestions?
Also, what does blue printed mean (engines and carbs is where I've seen it)
And do you know how I can bore out a ruixing carb? (My old or new one?)
When should I be worried my valves will hit my piston, right now I have the stock dished piston but say I get a flat top piston and 1.3 : 1 rockers and longer pushrods will the valves hit?
 
OND

OND

#2
#2
Wow...thats alot to think about, slow down and good luck .:laugh:

Welcome to the OldMiniBikes forum ! :thumbsup:
 
Norcalputput

Norcalputput

Member
#4
#4
First off welcome
Second the devil is in the details
What is this motor Build going in?
Blue printing a motor is a term meaning all the specs for the block and All of its internals have been checked every thing is to spec
Now as for your build I would ditch the stock carb for a aftermarket mikuni 22mm or a tillotson
Install your piston move the piston to TDC and use a pair of digital calipers to find how much below the deck you are should be between .000-.030 I would think
Now your cam is a cheater cam stock lift with increased duration If performance is a must and your not trying to fool a tech inspect ditch this cam the black mamba cam from isky would give you a huge boost in performance with out the 1.3:1 rockers
Let's do a little math
Stock
.222"x 1.1= .244" lift @ the valve
.222"x 1.3= .288" lift @ the valve
Black mamba
.275"x 1.1= .302" lift @ the valve

You should have no problems with piston to valve clearance as you have described your build but again I will say THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS!!!
Do your math or follow a build that has been proven before
Kurt



Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
 
D

davidlamb78

Member
#5
#5
What will this mill be going in? If you're wanting to build a mini that you can ride and enjoy, and go fast as well, you're over building. You can get a lot of speed from a mild build. Racing engines don't do as well in a daily rider application. You can get a lot of speed out of a governed 212 with a decent cam. Billet rod and flywheel will make removing the gov possible, and it'll raise your RPMs up quite a bit. You'll have trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground. You can spend a ton of money and have a bike that is difficult to ride, or you can spend less and have a fast minibike. If you're riding with friends, a simple modded motor will give you a huge performance boost over your buddies. Most of them won't dump a couple hundred in the motor like this. I suggest going to a site that has a speed calculator, and enter in some information to see what kind of speed you'll get. With a nice cam and some billet bits, you'll be able to get 7000 rpm. Keep in mind that, if you don't have speed rated tires, you're putting yourself into a dangerous situation. These bikes weren't designed for crazy speed, and anything over 40mph may seem a little sketchy.
 
K-Saletta

K-Saletta

New Member
#6
#6
Okay thank you so much norcal!!! And same to you david! So this would be going in my doodlebug which I've had the 212cc in before just without a few things on here, and I'm only aloud to ride it in my front yard which is about half a acre of just dirt all flat dirt that's rotor tilled so I have to make my own path which is a pain. The only thing is I don't like how dang bumpy it is and I just have enough room to hit the power band with the mod 2 and the stop right away. I never new too much about those high lift cams. I ordered a clutch which should be here soon that is a max torque ( the bsp one from OldMiniBikes) and it engages at 3000 rpm, so will this lower the amount of distance it takes me to hit the powerband? Thanks for that math too I was always wondering!
 
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