Predator bolt and clutch spacer kit?

Big Boy

Big Boy

Member
#1
#1
Well after ordering everything that I'd thought I'd need, I saw that hotrodminibike has a bolt/clutch spacer kit specifically for the predator engine.

I have not seen this anywhere until the other day. Is this really needed or is there more generic route I could go without ordering a specific kit for it?

I just dont want to put my swap on hold due to a $4 kit. :eek:ut:
Thanks for your help.
 
Bikerscum

Bikerscum

Active Member
#2
#2
Big Boy said:
Well after ordering everything that I'd thought I'd need, I saw that hotrodminibike has a bolt/clutch spacer kit specifically for the predator engine.

I have not seen this anywhere until the other day. Is this really needed or is there more generic route I could go without ordering a specific kit for it?

I just dont want to put my swap on hold due to a $4 kit. :eek:ut:
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
I'm curious about this too. The Max Torque clutch I bought for my Predator has a key & two set screws.... it's not intended to "float" like the ones using a single crank end bolt. Hope I didn't buy the wrong one.
 
Big Boy

Big Boy

Member
#5
#5
I figured it couldnt be REQUIRED or else more than just hotrodminibike.com would have them. I may have some washers in the garage.
 
Big Boy

Big Boy

Member
#7
#7
Sorry for the false alarm. Looks like Brad added them to the stage 2 kit. So, I can use the included parts :thumbsup:

I was unaware that they were included.
 
F

Flyier

New Member
#8
#8
ProMod said:
I agree with Outlaw!
Very nice to see others taking the time and having the patience to help out.
Chazdaddy and Ogygopsis gave some spot on advice.

As far as our stage 1 and 2 kits go we supply two machine washers for the clutch install and instructions for placing them on the crankshaft first with the clutch positioned sprocket inboard. On the Honda. Lifan and most other Clone engines this will space the clutch out just slightly past the end of the crank. When you tighten the supplied crank bolt and washer it locks the clutch on the crank. As Chazdaddy stated the washer prevents the bushing end of the clutch from being swelled by the radius that is machined on the crank step for strength. If you buy a higher end clutch like the Titan for the Briggs world formula it will come with instructions explaining this, along with a special washer they recommend using if you run the sprocket inboard. The 3/4 machine shims I supply are thin and softer than a standard plated washer. They work perfect for keeping the Max T clutch bushing end from getting cracked or swelled. And I have also used them on the WF engines with the Titan clutch instead of the special washer which is harder to come by.
The other suggestion I give with the instruction sheet is to only use the set screw that presses on the key. You can use both set screws if you want, But the set screw that runs into the crank will make a burr causing the clutch to be more difficult to remove and service. Clutch held on the crank by the clutch bolt and washer pressing on it and one set screw on the key. IMO this is the best way to secure the clutch.

The problem Flyier is having is that he is using a Predator engine. After buying one I now figured out it has a crankshaft that is longer from the step to the end of the crank.
The problem can be easily solved by using more washers to take up the additional space.
I would run the machine shims against the step radius because they easily conform to it. The additional washers are just spacers. If you can only come up with spacing that has the clutch dead even with the crank end you can always just work the end of the crank down a bit with a file or grinder/sander to create a little room for a press fit.
Click to expand...
Flyier
 
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