Question on painting

#1
Ok so I just jumped into this hobby and I'm doing a restoration on a bike. My question is is there a good kind of primer for covering pits in the metal on this bike that will come out with a smooth surface and not show the pits?
 
#2
As with any primer sanding is going to be necessary to get a smooth finish...If you are going to use spray bomb just make sure its a sandable primer. Just my two cents.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#4
Do as much prep work on the metal as you can. Sometimes, it's easier to fill the pits before you paint. Then, hit it with etching primer and wet said it where it needs. Then, hit it with high-build primer. Wet sand it with 400 grit sand paper. If it looks good, wipe it down with a paint prep cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a lent-free rag.

Then you'll be ready for paint. I know it's a lengthy process, but it's the only way to get a nice finish with rattlecan paint. Be patient and no one will ever know it's not professionally sprayed.
 
#5
I would hit it with a self etching primer first and then filler primer like was said . If the pitting is bad try spot putty which is primer in a tube or bondo filler it works great for pits . And then filler primer and sanding till it's flat .
 
#6
Do as much prep work on the metal as you can. Sometimes, it's easier to fill the pits before you paint. Then, hit it with etching primer and wet said it where it needs. Then, hit it with high-build primer. Wet sand it with 400 grit sand paper. If it looks good, wipe it down with a paint prep cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a lent-free rag.

Then you'll be ready for paint. I know it's a lengthy process, but it's the only way to get a nice finish with rattlecan paint. Be patient and no one will ever know it's not professionally sprayed.
That's the best way right there!
 
#7
Now if I wanna take it somewhere to get sprayed but wanna do the prep work myself should I just do the same process as mentioned or is that just for the rattle can .
 
#8
FWIW - I'm in the same boat in my restoration. I have some metal parts which, after removing all the paint and soaking them in Evapo-Rust to remove the rust, are pitted . I've been playing around with JB Weld epoxy and find it's more like a runny glue than a putty. It really smooths out rough metal if the pitting is severe.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#9
FWIW - I'm in the same boat in my restoration. I have some metal parts which, after removing all the paint and soaking them in Evapo-Rust to remove the rust, are pitted . I've been playing around with JB Weld epoxy and find it's more like a runny glue than a putty. It really smooths out rough metal if the pitting is severe.
I like filling with Epoxy because it's easy to sand. Bondo is pretty easy to work with too, but it's harder to sand if you put too much on. That also means it'll probably hold up a little better too.

I think most paint shops will want to prep the metal themselves. They'll likely charge you for it anyway, and if there's an imperfection in the paint, they can't blame your prep work as the reason.
 
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