Well the engine work. Just too well. I've blown up two, different clutches in 10 min of runtime. This engine is just too powerful for the torque converter I have installed. I might just switch back to a centrifugal clutch to see how it performs. Any suggestions on a better transmission than the one I have?
Questions predator engine build
Can you supply some more details? You mentioned clutches then a TC. So did you first blow up clutches then the TC? What happened to the tc? Lots of people have issues with gearing a TC especially the TAV 30's with overdrive. What happens with not enough gearing is when it goes into overdrive the engine just can't pull the tall gearing, and if the engine has a cam which shifts the powerband higher in the rev range then it keeps the motor out of the range it makes peak torque. Some of them have a max rpm listed on the clutch bell. I use the comet 340's or salsbury 330's as they are rated for 8500 rpm max.
This is the "clutch" I was talking about on the TC: 30 Series Torque Converter Driver Clutch 3 4 034 Bore Replaces Comet 219552 5957 | eBay
That part blew up on me twice.
That part blew up on me twice.
......Dude its gear ratio understand? Also you got a big carb on ur bike with a weak ass cam why? you put a diffrent head on why? Stock ones are fine! You cant build a motor and not Put a good clutch on...you already burned up 2-3 you say? Should just buy a 250$ bully an call it a day......also lose the torque converter...Lol who uses thise things? Total waste of money
Well someone seems to have overdosed on their pez today........
Lots of people run TC's......for a yard kart they are a blast..........and I have a bully 2 disc 6 spring on my kart now
The stock head is fine.......the aftermarket head is much better..... Not only is it probably flowing better it's also much smaller which is giving him a lot more static compression which is hp.
I didn't catch what carb and cam he installed but I'm guessing its probably a vm22 and since you coined it a "weak ass cam" I'm guessing its a mod2 cam etc. Nothing wrong with that either........a mod 2 or similar cam might not be the end all be all but maybe he didn't want to rework a bunch of valve geometry or press his luck with a taller lift cam that he might not have the clearance for.
If your here to help the guy then be civil and be helpful, otherwise carry on sir.....
Lots of people run TC's......for a yard kart they are a blast..........and I have a bully 2 disc 6 spring on my kart now
The stock head is fine.......the aftermarket head is much better..... Not only is it probably flowing better it's also much smaller which is giving him a lot more static compression which is hp.
I didn't catch what carb and cam he installed but I'm guessing its probably a vm22 and since you coined it a "weak ass cam" I'm guessing its a mod2 cam etc. Nothing wrong with that either........a mod 2 or similar cam might not be the end all be all but maybe he didn't want to rework a bunch of valve geometry or press his luck with a taller lift cam that he might not have the clearance for.
If your here to help the guy then be civil and be helpful, otherwise carry on sir.....
Yep, that's the carb I have. This is the cam I have : BP2 Grind Predator Core Dyno Cam. I'm only 18 and this is my first engine build ever and I had no idea what I was doing. I chose the parts after research because I thought they would work best, and more importantly, fit with out modification. The only reason why I had a torque converter is because it worked great with my stock predator and I had nothing to replace it with.
So, should I get the "bully 2 disc 6 spring" clutch? Should I get a jack shaft with it also because I can't run a chain directly from my engine to the sprocket?
I'm looking at getting one of these:PMR Jackshaft Kit Warrior/MB165/200
because it comes with everything I will need, clutch, mounting plate, jackshaft, metal cover... etc
Let me know what you think about that setup. Thanks
So, should I get the "bully 2 disc 6 spring" clutch? Should I get a jack shaft with it also because I can't run a chain directly from my engine to the sprocket?
I'm looking at getting one of these:PMR Jackshaft Kit Warrior/MB165/200
because it comes with everything I will need, clutch, mounting plate, jackshaft, metal cover... etc
Let me know what you think about that setup. Thanks
if your using the baha warrior minibike the main problem you have is that gigantic rear tire!!! the roll out is around 58 inches that's huge. my friend in Virginia has the warrior and the same 212 build I have ,,, ported head nrracing 252 cam and a mikuni vm22 and all the other internal billit stuff. running a 30 series torque converter with a 7 inch pulley (NOT THE SIX INCH) 8 tooth sprocket on the front 56 on the axel,,, does 50mph at 6400rpm. going to order a 64 tooth rear sprocket to get the motor up a 1000rpm where it should be. if you have the six inch pulley and stock rear sprocket you will burn up belts and lug the motor to death.
What do you mean by "lug the motor to death"? Will it actually destroy the engine? I really want to buy this setup: PMR Jackshaft Kit Warrior/MB165/200
I'm just researching all over the internet to see if it can handle the power of my modded engine.
I'm just researching all over the internet to see if it can handle the power of my modded engine.
lugging the motor is running it at a low rpm with a high load on it. you really need to look at your gearing with that big tire on the warrior. the stock jackshaft setup that came with that minibike is there for a reason... big giant rear tire... the jackshaft setup your looking at will work great if the gearing is right but your 30 series torque converter will work great if you have the 7 inch pulley 8 tooth sprocket on the countershaft and a 64 on the wheel...you will have to get a custom rear sprocket made to make the torque converter work. I buy blanks from pbi sprockets with the center hole drilled to the stock sprocket diameter then line them up and drill the bolt holes out.
It would be nice to use the torque converter, but I'm not sure where or how to make a custom rear sprocket. I'd rather just buy that PMR kit and call it a day. I really like the fact that the PMR has a metal cover surrounding all the moving parts, just incase something does go wrong. Plus it looks really good too. My question to you is: will the PMR kit handle the power of my engine or just burn up quickly? I really don't want to spend another $100+ to have something burn up.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I guess I'm confused, you have burnt up 2 clutches in 10 minutes run time. Were those clutches centrifugal clutches? As the PMR kit uses a Max torque centrifugal clutch. I wont pick apart your engine build as I know it isnt making so much power its burning up clutches, unless your gearing is way off and in that case a gearing change is going to be what you need versus burning up the Max torque clutch in the PMR kit.
Personally, to me, it appears that you have built an engine beyond your needs.
If you're just riding around the back yard, or maybe dirt trails and roads, you don't really need 1000hp with a brazillion pounds of torque.
I replaced the engine on my warrior with a 212 Rota-derp, opened it wide up, and it runs great on a standard TC.
It might just be me, but I find 30+ mph just fine for putting around. It'll probably do 40+ on the flats.
I find anything above that starts feeling a bit scary. A little bit more torque would be ok, but honestly, I'm quite pleased with it stock, and a straight pipe. I have a 10 tooth on the driven, and I changed the rear sprocket to a 60 tooth.
I just don't see the purpose of putting a 454 in a VW bug.
If you're just riding around the back yard, or maybe dirt trails and roads, you don't really need 1000hp with a brazillion pounds of torque.
I replaced the engine on my warrior with a 212 Rota-derp, opened it wide up, and it runs great on a standard TC.
It might just be me, but I find 30+ mph just fine for putting around. It'll probably do 40+ on the flats.
I find anything above that starts feeling a bit scary. A little bit more torque would be ok, but honestly, I'm quite pleased with it stock, and a straight pipe. I have a 10 tooth on the driven, and I changed the rear sprocket to a 60 tooth.
I just don't see the purpose of putting a 454 in a VW bug.
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This is the part that exploded on me, twice: 30 Series Torque Converter Driver Clutch, 3/4" Bore, Replaces Comet 219552, 5957 | eBay
I understand your confusion, in me saying it was a clutch. Note: I have never had a centrifugal clutch blow up on me. The only part that has broken is the "torque converter driven clutch". It's basically the part that is driven by the engine and grabs on to the belt when rpms increase.
I understand your confusion, in me saying it was a clutch. Note: I have never had a centrifugal clutch blow up on me. The only part that has broken is the "torque converter driven clutch". It's basically the part that is driven by the engine and grabs on to the belt when rpms increase.
Yeah, I think I made that mistake. The bike went 45mph (flat ground) with the T/C before the mods. I really is too fast for me to just drive around in the yard. I'm not going to give up though. The whole point of this build for me was to have fun building an engine. The only problem now is that the bike is too fast.
I might just scratch putting this engine in my mini bike and build a racing go kart. Someone built a race track in my area and I might just decide to buy a racing frame and put my built engine in there. This is the track: https://www.facebook.com/moonshineracing/?hc_ref=SEARCH
I might just scratch putting this engine in my mini bike and build a racing go kart. Someone built a race track in my area and I might just decide to buy a racing frame and put my built engine in there. This is the track: https://www.facebook.com/moonshineracing/?hc_ref=SEARCH
There isn't really anything to explode I guess is my struggle, and the driven is a centrifugal clutch. It has a drum on it that once it hits a certain RPM the spring inside stretches allowing it to slide on the hub towards the engine closing the gap, engaging the belt. If it came apart that would be due to the bolt holding it to your crank letting go I assume. If you are figuring out a way to make a clutch explode simply by having too much torque, than I don't think anybody can help you. Can you get some pictures of the driver 30 series installed on your engine, as well as the exploded piece?
What part is exploding?
Post #29 will allow you to download an excel sheet that can help in figuring out what Gear Ratio you are running, and you can include your wheel diameter.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/en...tml#post810737
What part is exploding?
Post #29 will allow you to download an excel sheet that can help in figuring out what Gear Ratio you are running, and you can include your wheel diameter.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/en...tml#post810737
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I will try to get some pics tomorrow. The whole part 5/7 assembly is what keeps breaking down. One of the metal rods on part 5/7 came out and hit me in the leg. It jabbed me pretty bad. I had to get 4 stitches. You are correct in saying that the screw came out. I don't know why the screw keeps coming out. I can't find a way to keep the screw in. It never backed out on my stock engine.
I am really trying to stray away from the T/C because I'm paranoid of having something hit my leg for a 3rd time. Is it possible to buy a metal cover for these torque converters?
I am really trying to stray away from the T/C because I'm paranoid of having something hit my leg for a 3rd time. Is it possible to buy a metal cover for these torque converters?