Hi f150tilt Bill did rebuild the carb when he had the engine. I think the problem is in the adjusting screws, or the seats. It is like the adjustments are not the same after cool down. After cool down it will not start with out starting fluid. Cold full choke no start 1 shot starting fluid pull and start. Then you need to adjust to make it run. I am going to read through what Loren sent me. I think in the long run I will be using the slanted intake and a bowl type carb. Thanks for any help or thoughts, Matt
Hi everyone I just read through what Loren had sent me. I have been doing pretty much what it said. Here is one problem I found. It says to adjust the high side hold full throttle and adjust tell it runs best. OK I hold at full throttle and it runs the same all through the adjustment, closed to open. So I think the problem is in this carb. The new intake and new carb will be here soon, then we will know. :thumbsup:
Personally I would set the hi speed at say 1 1/4 turns out and put the lo speed wherever it idles good and try and ride it.
Those diaphragm carbs don't tend to respond to just revving the engine with no load-the circuitry works off of vacuum pulses and those will be different on a loaded vs non loaded running condition.
You can check to see if hi speed circuit is clear by running at WOT and momentarily cycle the choke from open to closed to open again. It SHOULD try and briefly load the engine up.
Also keep in mind that if you switch over to a slanted intake/bowl carb you will have to bend the governor arm as well as schooling yourself in static governor adjustment 101 and besides that the original factor will fly out the window. Just saying.
Also make sure your fuel cap is vented or just try loosening it a bit so you know it is venting.
I can send you a different diaphragm carb to try if all else fails but the only one I have at the moment doesn't allow for the fuel fitting to be rotated to the position yours is at but since this seems to be more of just a possible trouble shooting issue that fitting angle won't have any effect. :thumbsup:
Those diaphragm carbs don't tend to respond to just revving the engine with no load-the circuitry works off of vacuum pulses and those will be different on a loaded vs non loaded running condition.
You can check to see if hi speed circuit is clear by running at WOT and momentarily cycle the choke from open to closed to open again. It SHOULD try and briefly load the engine up.
Also keep in mind that if you switch over to a slanted intake/bowl carb you will have to bend the governor arm as well as schooling yourself in static governor adjustment 101 and besides that the original factor will fly out the window. Just saying.
Also make sure your fuel cap is vented or just try loosening it a bit so you know it is venting.
I can send you a different diaphragm carb to try if all else fails but the only one I have at the moment doesn't allow for the fuel fitting to be rotated to the position yours is at but since this seems to be more of just a possible trouble shooting issue that fitting angle won't have any effect. :thumbsup:
Thanks ATKRIDER At 1 1/4 turns as soon as you accelerate the bike will die.[starving for fuel] It takes about 3 plus turn for it to accelerate easy and smooth. Now at 3 turn on high side it will not keep running at a good idle. The idle is so high the clutch drags bad. Can anyone tell me can you order new seats and adjuster screws for these carbs? Since I know the carb was changed is there numbers on the carb I can use to get the right screws and seats? Remember also when it cools down it won't start with out a shot of starting fluid. when cold put on full chock pull pull pull and no fire, one shot of starting fluid and she fires right off. :doah:
So I was reading the Tecumseh technician handbook. I looked through the carburetor section and the troubleshooting chart. I think I need a new set of low and high adjuster screws. The seats are not replaceable. I have a couple of old adjustable bowl type carbs in the garage. I think one is from a 5hp and the other is a 3hp. I wonder if the adjuster screws are the same as the diaphragm carb? I will check tomorrow.
Hi Marysville, sorry to hear about the school shootings in your neighborhood, sad stuff. It would be hard to get them in wrong they are quite different looking. So I took the idle and high screws from the bowl type carbs. The mains are close and the idles are very different. So I did try one of the high screws and it ran different, a little better I think. It ran good on high at 1.5 turns instead of 3 plus turns. It still runs bad at idle. Once I get the idle set low it runs for awhile then dies. Then it is very hard to start most times it takes a shot of starting fluid. When the new carb and angled intake get here I will put it on right away. You know when I started this it was all about making it original, not anymore now I just want it to run. I will save the intake and the carb from Rick. Who knows some day I may want it original again. I will keep an eye out for new main and idle screws. Here's a video not real good just felt like making one. :biggrin: Listen to the words on the first song on the video, now that is funny. :thumbsup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUSBM9wTPBc&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUSBM9wTPBc&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
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You guys won't believe it. With the new slanted intake and new carburetor it started on the 3rd pull. It fired on the 1st or 2nd pull after that. I could not get that diaphragm carburetor to start with out starting fluid most of the time. Here you go. I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9R334AfifI&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
I did go out after it sat for about 1 1/2 hours she fired right up. This is getting very close to how it ran long ago. :thumbsup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9R334AfifI&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
I did go out after it sat for about 1 1/2 hours she fired right up. This is getting very close to how it ran long ago. :thumbsup:
Here you go and thanks Dave it was easy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHRhCr_1J4&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHRhCr_1J4&list=UU8HqtjsP8DIGoc4JzDS9bxw
Sounds good Matt. :thumbsup: Yes indeed, we all hear how one screw does idle, the other does high speed. Well, BS to that! LOL...
You get the idle all set nice, then take it for a ride, maybe lean out the bottom main jet a bit, yeah, running smooth, head back to the garage for a beer and a hit of exhaust fumes, and the motor dies, because now the idle setting isn't where it needs to be.
The way I check for high speed jet is by yanking the throttle from a dead stop and trying to burn rubber. If it takes off hard and strips the valve stem from your tube, you know it's good.
You get the idle all set nice, then take it for a ride, maybe lean out the bottom main jet a bit, yeah, running smooth, head back to the garage for a beer and a hit of exhaust fumes, and the motor dies, because now the idle setting isn't where it needs to be.
The way I check for high speed jet is by yanking the throttle from a dead stop and trying to burn rubber. If it takes off hard and strips the valve stem from your tube, you know it's good.