Ruppparts TC Driver Install

#1
I ordered a replacement TC Driver for my 71 Rupp Roadster/2 from ruppparts.com.

Rupp Blackwidow, Roadster 2, Scrambler, Enduro TC-1 torque converter


What they sent me is in the first picture. Does anyone know the order that it all goes together? It included (2) 3/4" washers and I don't know where to put them. In th product description on their website it says "If used on a stock Rupp long crankshaft engine, a spacer washer is needed and can be supplied. My unit is narrower than the original Rupp unit" Are those 3/4" washers what they are talking about? I tried to email Ruppparts a few weeks ago about it and they have yet to respond.

Obviously the I know the inner sheave and and outer sheave, but where do the washers go and what is the deal with the bronze bushing shown on the inner sheave?

Any help with the order would be appreciated.

Thank you.





 
#5
i got a TC from them and i don't think i got the washers. anyway i have a non rupp engine and didn't use anything between the engine and stationary sheave. i used a big washer to lock it in on the end.
 
#6
The Bronze bushing is there so when the engine is at idle and the clutch in not engaged, it doesn't wear on the belt. Comet TAV's work the same way.
 
#7
The early 30 series driver used a couple of spacers between the the driver and driven.

Your TC may have the same set up.
Looks like its a 20 series symmetric to me.

It may be they never changed this....
You could have a NOS 20 series....
But I would look for an exploded parts diagram to be sure you are not supposed to put them between the moving and stationary sheave
 
#8
On his website it states that if a long crankshaft is used you may need a spacer? Put it together and check the alignment. If its off use the spacer, if not use it as is. I have used the 20 series driven on many rupps with no issues. bolt it on and have fun.
 

jrzmac

Active Member
#9
i just tried the aftermarket 20 series clutch on my Scrambler yesterday. bike didn't even move? I bought a 3/4" wide belt for it but it didn't work. it actually flew off at one point. I havent tried the original 5/8" wide belt yet, but I think I might have just wasted $100.00.... I don't have a lathe so cutting the clutch down 1/8" isn't gonna happen. I guess I can clean up the old driver and try to get it working the way it should. just hate spending money on stuff that you can't even use..... :hammer:
 
#10
i would say you put the washers wherever you need them. if you need the inner sheave out farther to line up the pulleys you put one or two against the engine. Or if you need them between the sheaves to compensate for a thicker belt you can do that too
 

Jamie1972

Active Member
#11
Don't tell me that.......!

i just tried the aftermarket 20 series clutch on my Scrambler yesterday. bike didn't even move? I bought a 3/4" wide belt for it but it didn't work. it actually flew off at one point. I havent tried the original 5/8" wide belt yet, but I think I might have just wasted $100.00.... I don't have a lathe so cutting the clutch down 1/8" isn't gonna happen. I guess I can clean up the old driver and try to get it working the way it should. just hate spending money on stuff that you can't even use..... :hammer:
I just got a Comet 20 series sitting at home. I'm gonna put it on tonight, on my H50 with stock driven on the jack shaft!
Hope it works!?
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#13
i just tried the aftermarket 20 series clutch on my Scrambler yesterday. bike didn't even move? I bought a 3/4" wide belt for it but it didn't work. it actually flew off at one point. I havent tried the original 5/8" wide belt yet, but I think I might have just wasted $100.00.... I don't have a lathe so cutting the clutch down 1/8" isn't gonna happen. I guess I can clean up the old driver and try to get it working the way it should. just hate spending money on stuff that you can't even use..... :hammer:
I am going to get you the pictures of the setup on my black widow.

It has a 20 series comet with a rupp driven, nothing special done to the 20 series. I am going to get that to you as soon as I get done with these stupid management classes. Could possibly be done today. If I get done today, I am going to winber tomorrow!!
 

jrzmac

Active Member
#14
I am going to get you the pictures of the setup on my black widow.

It has a 20 series comet with a rupp driven, nothing special done to the 20 series. I am going to get that to you as soon as I get done with these stupid management classes. Could possibly be done today. If I get done today, I am going to winber tomorrow!!
I can't even use the driver anyway. it comes with this spacer washer part, that you put the screw thru to hold the clutch on. problem is the screw they give you is way too narrow, and the one that originally is one there doesn't fit in the spacer. it's too big. I would've opened it up with a drill if it was plastic or something but it's steel I think. seems like I wasted my money! oh well ,live and learn I guess?
 
#15
I can't even use the driver anyway. it comes with this spacer washer part, that you put the screw thru to hold the clutch on. problem is the screw they give you is way too narrow, and the one that originally is one there doesn't fit in the spacer. it's too big. I would've opened it up with a drill if it was plastic or something but it's steel I think. seems like I wasted my money! oh well ,live and learn I guess?
i would see if a local machine shop or motorcycle shop would cut it down, the one i got from rupp parts fits fine, the spacer is needed for the long shaft rupp engines, for the long bolt to work you would need a big washer to hold it in and spread the load, check my pic. if you find a cool machine shop they should do it fairly cheap they could probably shave that 1/8" off on a good sanding belt.
 
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